The sun sets in this view from Tent Island. Though not part of the marine trail, it offers a great potential campsite courtesy the Penelakut First Nation. Photo by John Kimantas.

 

Leg three: Saltspring and Galiano

To call Saltspring Island the heart of the Gulf Islands is to acknowledge not only its domineering physical presence (capped by the highest peaks in the region), but also the cultural spirit reflected in a bustling community of arts, boutiques and bed&breakfasts.

Saltspring is the most populated of all the Gulf Islands, at about 10,000 people, most of whom reside near Vesuvius Bay or Ganges Harbour. Few inhabit the south island, which is highly mountainous and consequently dotted by trails and a smattering of parks.

To the north of Saltspring is Galiano Island, another key center. The population tends to cluster near Active Pass near the ferry terminal at Sturdies Bay. Direct ferry service from Vancouver helps both islands with their roles as holiday destinations and as homes away from home.

Those seeking to leave civilization behind won’t need to go far from either island. As south Saltspring is largely uninhabited, so goes north Galiano Island. Both areas are blessed with mostly steep shorelines, which makes kayak exploration a great way to explore. Shoreline parks also abound, with Wallace and Prevost islands key kayaking destinations. Currents through the region can run high and are highest in Active Pass, while Sansum Narrows can be a novice whitewater adventure with rips. Winds also funnel down Sansum and Trincomali Channel to the north, so plan travel times to accommodate the worst.

Chivers Point on Wallace Island can fill quickly with kayakers during the summer. The beach may not be the best but what it lacks in sprawling sand it makes up for in protection. Walking trails add to the appeal. Vincent Delogne photo.

Access: Numerous ways exist to launch from both Saltspring and Galiano, as well as from strategic locations on Vancouver Island. For launches from Galiano, Montague Harbour Provincial Park is a convenient and sheltered location. On Saltspring, most harbours and bays have boat ramps or beach accesses. Most of those options are marked on the map on page 24. From Vancouver Island, Swartz Bay on the top of Saanich Peninsula (see page 16), Cowichan Bay, Maple Bay and Crofton all offer access to Saltspring’s east and south side, particularly Sansum Narrows.

Destinations:

Fulford Harbour. Off-lying Russell Island is a great attraction with a good beach, a jetty for boat landings, a trail and historical buildings that reflect a long history of pioneer occupation by Hawaiians, a unique cultural connection.

Ganges Harbour. The commercial and cultural heart of Saltspring, the harbour has a long chain of islands to explore with a beautiful picnic stop at Chocolate Beach on Third Sister Island – a great beginner’s outing and half-day trip.

Prevost Island. Arguably the prettiest of the smaller Gulf Islands, the east shore is dotted with islets, a historic lighthouse, coves and cliffs. James Bay is a highly strategic kayak campsite, though not necessarily the prettiest, but large enough for multiple groups. Most of the island is private but undeveloped. Hopefully the national park will snap up the rest of the island before that can happen. Easy access is possible from Ganges, Long Harbour and Montague Harbour as well as the Penders and Mayne Island, though watch for rips off Long Harbour in Captain Passage. It is strategic for routes from Portland Island and Beaumont on South Pender. It is 19 km / 12 miles to Wallace Island.

Montague Harbour. This provincial park on Galiano is a good base for land exploration, but has limitations as a kayaking destination, particularly as campsite reservations are pretty much a necessity in summer. Prevost Island is preferable for kayakers. Beautiful cliffs nearby make great exploring along the nearby Galiano shoreline.

Wallace Island. This provincial park features three possible kayak camping locations. The most popular is Chivers Point on the northwest tip. Trails cross the island while old cottages of the former resort speak of the history.

Sansum Narrows. This tidal channel has a few rips and strong currents in portions, but otherwise expect bays and vistas alongside the tallest mountains in the Gulf Islands. Funneling wind can be an obstacle to a simple transit. A new camping option is being opened at Osborne Bay Park, thanks to the Cowichan Valley Regional District. A great launch for day trips is Maple Bay; good picnic sites can be found near Maxwell Point (though within the provincial park shoreline access is prohibited). Cowichan Bay also offers sheltered paddling and a prime entry point to south Saltspring.

What’s in a name? Nothing accurate!

The Gulf Islands have a long history of misnomers, with more being added all the time.

Consider the name itself is an error. The Gulf Islands were so named for the proximity to the Gulf of Georgia by Capt. George Vancouver back in 1792. Except it wasn’t a gulf, and when the error was discovered that name was changed to the Strait of Georgia (that was 1865), but the islands themselves were never corrected and so they are actually the Gulfless Islands.

Saltspring Island goes as “Salt Spring” as often as not, but be sure the original reference is a single word. If you go back further you’ll find it called Chuan Island, or perhaps even Ranfurley Island.

The latest error is how to define the Gulf Islands. A political strategy of the 1990s defined the Gulf Islands as any island in the Georgia Basin, so including Texada, Bowen, and possibly even Quadra Island well to the north.

The true definition is the area of islands within the triangle bounded by D’Arcy, Saturna and Gabriola islands, leaving out Newcastle Island for some odd reason.

Other articles in this series on the Gulf Islands Marine Trails Network:

Introduction: Islands of serenity

Leg one: Saanich and Sidney

Leg two: The South Islands

Leg three: Saltspring and Galiano

Leg four: the North Islands