Intricate sandstone patterns define this part of the Gulf Islands. Photo by Reale Edmond.

 

Leg four: the North Islands

The sandstone formations in these islands are remarkable, not just in appearance but also in history. Back in 1792 some sketches were made of one particular overhanging sandstone gallery by an artist on an expedition commanded by the Spanish explorer Galiano. The namesake Galiano Gallery on Gabriola Island, an overhanging sandstone shelf extending 90 meters / 300 feet, became famous as a result. It’s a local park today, but while the most famous it’s not alone for the dramatic sandstone rocks. Galleries, ledges and fretted “brain rock” sandstone abound throughout these islands.

A key kayaking route for this region is from Cedar down the DeCourcy Group to Pirates Cove, the whimsical name for a provincial park and a key kayaking campsite and anchorage. This area’s fame comes way of Brother XII, a cult leader immortalized in court proceedings that charged fraud as well as stories of black magic, hanky-panky, coercion and the role of a whip-wielding Madam Zee. It’s much tamer there today, of course, though raccoons are known to have lively 3 a.m. revelries at the expense of a camper’s poorly stowed picnic basket.

Paddling past the Secretary Islands north of Thetis Island..

Of all the large Gulf Islands, Valdes is remarkable for being the only one without BC Ferries service, which in turn means fewer residents and more undeveloped land. Most of the island is designated for forestry, with logging roads providing land access. A newly protected area is Wakes Cove, purchased in 2003.

By contrast Gabriola Island has a high residential population and only a scattering of protected shoreline, notably a regional campsite at Descanso Bay and a provincial park at Drumbeg. Thetis Island is a haven for religious summer camps, for some odd reason, while Penelakut Island (changed from Kuper Island in 2010) is a Penelakut First Nation reserve with some housing and a beautiful sand spit on the north end. Tent Island is also a reserve. While not part of the marine trail system, camping is allowed there by arrangement with the band. The island itself is phenomenally beautiful and a highlight of the area, which already boasts many.

Launches: Boat ramps in Chemainus and Cedar on Vancouver Island provide critical access for all types of boats, while kayakers can round out the assortment of options by using parks like Drumbeg on Gabriola or Evening Cove at the north entrance to Ladysmith Harbour. The main options are marked on the map on page 28.

Destinations:

North Galiano. Porlier Pass is a dangerous tidal passage with strong currents, rips and overfalls, so time a crossing for slack tide. Once on the outside Dionisio Provincial Park offers camping (not yet part of the official marine trail inventory) and a great day-use beach at Coon Bay plus trails. It is highly recommended.

Thetis and Penelakut islands. This odd pair is split by a narrow dredged channel that can run shallow even for kayaks. Thetis is partly residential and partly sprawling bible camps. Penelakut Island is a Penelakut band reserve, and mostly undeveloped. The sandy spit on the northeast end is a great picnic destination. While most of the small nearby islands are private, Tent Island is a Penelakut property but with access for camping. Ask for permission with the band office at 250-246-2321. The island is wonderfully scenic with some beautiful cliffs and beaches.

Blackberry Point. The first marine trail campsite, it now sits in limbo as the lease with the current owners has expired. Though now unofficial, camping is not specifically banned (knock on wood). To the north is a log dump with a bit of a beach that allows access to the island’s interior via logging roads.

The DeCourcy Group. This line of islands runs from Vancouver Island at Dodd Narrows, a potentially dangerous tidal passage, southeast to Pylades Island. Spectacular sandstone formations can be found along most islands but particularly south DeCourcy Island. Pirates Cove is the main kayaking campsite and a popular anchorage. A great clamshell beach sits off Ruxton Island and is a perfect kayak stop at low tides. The campsite at Pirates Cove is 20 km / 12 miles from Wallace Island.

Ladysmith Harbour. The Vancouver Island Paddlefest is held at Transfer Beach, which is a natural kayak launch for explorations of the harbour all year round. The harbour makes a novice agenda that can include the Dunsmuir Islands or out to the beach at Evening Cove (an alternative launch site).

Flat Top Islands. Located off the east end of Gabriola Island, this collection of islands is all private except for two islets off Saturnina Island. Launching is possible from Silva Bay, which offers services, or Drumbeg Park. Nearby Kendrick Island is adjoined by a smaller islet that can also serve for casual camping. Gabriola Passage runs several knots and can have dangerous rips. Wakes Cove is now a provincial park and a good picnic location.

Nanaimo Harbour. Home to Coast&Kayak Magazine, Nanaimo is a busy port town reflected in the ferry terminal, shipping traffic and many marinas. However, the bustle melts away in the cover of Newcastle Island, a provincial park set smack in the middle of the harbour that offers a network of trails as long as 10 km each, beaches and camping. Jesse Island, to the north, has the only paddle-through caves in the Gulf Islands. Protection Island to the south is mostly private and highly developed, with the attraction being a floating pub. See you there!

Other articles in this series on the Gulf Islands Marine Trails Network:

Introduction: Islands of serenity

Leg one: Saanich and Sidney

Leg two: The South Islands

Leg three: Saltspring and Galiano

Leg four: the North Islands