Chasing Castles

Kayaking San Simeon Bay, California. From the Spring 2010 issue of Coast&Kayak Magazine. Read the entire magazine online.

by Chuck Graham

Kayakers are likely to fall into a time warp if they paddle San Simeon Bay.

Located just south of the Big Sur coastline in central California, vistors will be ushered into the heyday of the 1930s when newspaper tycoon William Randolph Hearst built his monumental castle here. Below Hearst’s retreat, San Simeon Bay and its pier were used to boat in supplies so Hearst could entertain his many Hollywood guests. He likely didn’t envision his property one day becoming a popular kayaking destination, now part of William Randolph Hearst State Beach, a deep, well protected cove with a high concentration of wildlife.

Routes: Located just north of the pier, the main put-in is typically an easy one. The two routes outlined here can easily be paddled in a day. The first route south of the pier is a short, half-mile round-trip paddle to a cluster of rock outcroppings that serve roosting habitat for double-crested and pelagic cormorants, western gulls and pigeon guillemots. San Simeon Bay lies at the southern end of the Monterey Bay National Marine Sanctuary. Its protective waters and dense kelp beds harbor a growing number of southern sea otters. On clear days from here you can see Hearst Castle whose rolling, grassy foothills overlook this unique paddling destination.

The second route proceeds north of the pier, hugging the cliff of San Simeon Bay for a three-mile round-trip. Paddling west you’ll kayak through several sea caves while eating the spray of various spouting blowholes. Along the cliffs, pigeon guillemots nest in tiny alcoves, and you can hear their distinct whistles throughout the bay. The route continues west along the cliff towards a buoy just outside the bay. A grove of eucalyptus trees grows along the edge of the cliff, extending out over the bay. Cormorants nest and roost here, so wear a hat as you paddle beneath them. Kelp beds are wide and thick, and more otters can be seen here cracking open shellfish. California brown pelicans enjoy roosting on rocky pinnacles. During their migration, grey whales pass by inside the bay as do humpbacks and small pods of common dolphins.

Tips and hazards: Before entering the water, watch for approaching waves. Timing is everything here, so wait for the ocean to lie calm before paddling out. Typically the current runs down the coast, so put in 50 yards north of the pier to avoid being pushed into the pilings.

Always enter sea caves with caution. A helmet is recommended, especially when there’s a south swell and an incoming tide. The surge from both can lift you toward the ceilings of the grottos and waves can wash through to create potential hazards. Make sure the bow of your kayak is facing into any breaking waves inside the grottos and that you’re paddling into the surf with strong strokes.

Even though the bay is relatively protected from prevailing northwest winds, stronger winds can make paddling difficult from the south side of the pier. Gauge the conditions against your paddling ability before heading out.

There’s a lot of wildlife in San Simeon Bay, so it’s best to keep the noise level down to a minimum. When in the company of wildlife, make no sudden movements with your paddle and observe sea otters, seabirds and marine mammals from a safe distance. The beach at San Simeon Bay is long, so if you need to stretch your legs and rest you can safely land anywhere on this scenic beach.

A guide at the Channel Islands National Park, Chuck Graham is also a freelance writer and photographer in Carpinteria, CA.

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