Bay of Islands

Winter 2009

Day Trip

This is an article from WaveLength Magazine, available in print in North America and globally on the web.

To view a copy of the entire magazine online, click here: WINTER 2009 WAVELENGTH MAGAZINE

by Keith and Heather Nicol

The Bay of Islands, located in western Newfoundland, includes some of the most rugged and spectacular shoreline in Newfoundland. It consists of many large islands and three fjords, so the kayaking options are abundant. From a base in Corner Brook you can paddle for several days and still leave large sections unexplored.

For Beginners: Options here include paddling along the inner bay near Corner Brook. The most popular put-in is a beach at Mount Moriah and a 4-km (2.5-mile) paddle to Cook’s Brook, named for Captain James Cook, who explored this area in 1767 and produced such fine maps you could use them for kayaking today. You can paddle part way up Cook’s Brook if the tide is high or simply land on the adjacent beach and watch the antics of the common terns if it is low. Another option for novice paddlers is to put in at the Humber Valley Rowing Club wharf and paddle toward the Humber River or to Prince Edward Park.

For Intermediates paddlers: For paddlers who are comfortable with stronger winds and wave conditions you can set out from the community of McIvers and head to Woods Island. The distance is just a couple of kilometres and once you are on Woods Island you can paddle around it if you are feeling strong (it is a 20-km trip), or linger on its beaches if you are feeling less energetic. With Blow Me Down Mountain rearing its 600-plus metre head nearby, Woods Island certainly has a scenic backdrop.

Another paddle for intermediates is a visit to Seal and Governor’s islands in York Harbour. These flat-topped islands are just offshore and Seal Island in particular is worth visiting for its hidden sandy beach and seabirds squawking all around.

For advanced paddlers: For advanced paddlers or for intermediates when the winds are light, you can test your skills in the open Gulf of St. Lawrence at Bottle Cove. One of our favorite trips in this area is the paddle from Bottle Cove around South Head Lighthouse to Lark Harbour. This trip paddles beneath shear 200-metre cliffs and gives great views of the rugged islands just offshore. There are also fine waterfalls and a sea arch that you can paddle through at high tide along the last half of this 13-km paddle.

From Bottle Cove you can also paddle in the other direction to Little Port and Cedar Cove. Beware that this is a lee shore to the prevailing southwest winds and so pounding surf may not let you land easily on the broad beach at Cedar Cove.

Tips and Hazards: The water in Newfoundland is generally cold so wear a wetsuit and have other safety gear with you. Also, get a weather forecast and try to do any big open water crossings or open Gulf sections by noon before the day’s wind comes up.

Keith Nicol’s website for paddling in Newfoundland and Atlantic Canada can be found at www2.swgc.mun.ca/~knicol/hikingandseakayaking.htm