New Vistas

Summer 2009

Wavelength looks at some of BC's least visited but most enticing kayak destinations, starting with little-known Fiordlands.

This is an article from WaveLength Magazine, available in print in North America and globally on the web.

To download a pdf copy of the magazine click here: DOWNLOAD

Other articles in this series: The North Coast Trail The Mission Group Islands Kayaking Haida Gwaii

Morning fog near Mathieson Point, Pooley Island. James 'Jamz' Luce photo

If only people turned right at Klemtu when heading up British Columbia's Inside Passage. But they don't. The pleasure boats cruising this route to Alaska invariably continue north through Princess Royal Passage. Those who do turn right, and head up Mathieson Channel, will soon find themselves in the exceptional Fiordlands Conservancy – an area well worth a few days for boaters and kayakers alike. Every year Washington State-based brothers Michael and James (Jamz) Luce explore a new remote region of the BC coast, or rediscover an old one. This past year they explored the Fiordland region for 10 days with friends Mike and Elaine McRory.

The Fiordlands Conservancy protects Kynoch and Mussel Inlets, two glacially created fiords characterized by sheer granite cliffs dropping more than a kilometer at points into the ocean. It's not a place to visit lightly. Accessible areas suitable for camping are few and far between, while some of those, such as the estuaries, are prime grizzly habitat. Watch also for strong diurnal winds.

Lessum Creek. Elaine McRory photo

Fiordland is rich in waterfalls, such as the one at Lessum Creek near the entrance of Kynoch Inlet, as well as McAlpin and Lisette Falls in Mussel Inlet. The latter earned its name from Capt. George Vancouver's ill-fated trip in 1793 when paralytic shellfish poisoning claimed the life of shipmate John Carter. Nearby Carter Bay commemorates the 24-year-old seaman. The scene below shows typical conditions for the region – cliffs, water and fog.

If you go:

The only community in this region is Klemtu. BC Ferries (www.bcferries.com) stops here, making it an ideal launch point. The Kitasoo First Nation also offers rentals, accommodation and cultural tours, including a cabin in Kynoch Inlet. Visit www.klemtutourism.com. For park info, visit www.env.gov.bc.ca/bcparks.