Beyond paddles: the North Coast Trail

Summer 2009

There's a new way to enjoy north Vancouver Island. And it's beyond belief.

This is an article from WaveLength Magazine, available in print in North America and globally on the web.

To download a pdf copy of the magazine click here: DOWNLOAD

Other articles in this series: Fiordland The Mission Group Islands Kayaking Haida Gwaii

Gathering firewood at Skinner Creek. Photos by John Kimantas

For years most of Vancouver Island's north coast was off limits to just about all but the most hardy paddlers. After all, the closest community is Port Hardy, and from there you must cross windy Goletas Channel, potentially dangerous Tatnall Reefs then the reef-infested and potentially rough waters towards Cape Sutil, the northernmost point on Vancouver Island.

Typical North Coast Trail shoreline.

Once you arrive you'll find something you probably didn't expect: miles of sand beaches comparable to tropical destinations, and most often with no other soul in sight. In idyllic paddling conditions it is paradise. For this reason it has grown as one of BC's most desirable veteran kayaking destinations.

Leanne Chetcuti tackles a tough portion of trail, aided by ropes placed at the most difficult stretches of the North Coast Trail – which are many.

The fan base can widen now the North Coast Trail is complete. The land trail opened in May 2008, and offers the chance for foot access to many previous inaccessible portions of the Vancouver Island coast. But don't for a moment think the area will lose its charm now foot traffic is possible. The trail is remote and in parts extremely difficult. Expect it to be among the more elite hikes, comparable to the more famous West Coast Trail but without many trail improvements. What you will find is 58 kilometers of sometimes easy beach walking, sometimes grinding headland scaling and one lengthy meandering stretch of mostly boardwalk across boggy overland near Shushartie Bay. Either way, by paddle or by foot, it is an experience not to be missed.

Imagine the West Coast Trail 20 years ago before today's many bridges and ladders were built. The North Coast Trail evokes that earlier era of pristine but rough trail. Kudos to Leanne of Team Wavelength who finished the NCT just days after the opening last May, making her the first female on record to complete the hike. The overall inaugural hike is chronicled at
www.wildcoastmagazine.com

If you go:

The North Coast Trail is a continuation of the established Cape Scott Trail. From Nissen Bight it continues 43 km along the top of Vancouver Island to Shushartie Bay, where a water taxi is needed to return to Port Hardy. A shuttle service to the trailhead at San Josef is available; see northernvancouverislandtrailssociety.com for details. Coast&Kayak Magazine's parent company, Wild Coast Publishing, has produced a map detailing the trail. Visit www.coastandkayak.com. See www.wildcoastmagazine.com North Coast Trail pages for detailed trail information.