Fishing FAQs

Spring 2009

There are no bad questions, even with kayak fishing

This is an article from WaveLength Magazine, available in print in North America and globally on the web.

To download a pdf copy of the magazine click here: > DOWNLOAD

by Dan Armitage

I love to talk fishing. And one thing I have noticed over 20 years of communicating professionally is that some people are shy about admitting what they don’t know. That includes fishing, and experienced anglers often won’t ask questions about the basics – skills they figure they should know, but don’t quite know how to master.

Here are my answers to four of the most frequently asked questions I receive.

How do I set the reel’s drag? The reel’s drag is designed to allow the spool to release line, even when it is engaged and you are reeling in, if a fish pulls hard enough to potentially break the line. The amount of tension you set the drag to hold until releasing line is based on the breaking strength of your line. It should be set to “slip” at 50 to 75% of the line’s tested strength to make sure it releases line before it breaks. You can set the drag by loosening it and threading the line through the rod’s guides and attaching it to a hand-held scale. Reel down to the scale and then lift the rod as if landing a fish, and tighten the drag until it holds at a point where the scale shows a reading of one-half to three-quarters of the pound test you are using. Always test your drag with the line threaded through the guides and under the tension of a flexed rod to create actual fishing-like conditions.

How and when do I set the hook? The hook’s point needs to be set in the fish’s mouth in order to maintain a firm connection between you and the fish while you land it. Traditional hooks are set by removing any slack in the line and giving the rod a sharp upward or sideways snap to use the line to drag the sharp hook into the fish’s flesh.

Set too soon and you risk pulling the bait right out of the fish’s mouth; set too late and the fish may feel the hook or the line, sense the deception and spit the bait out; or it may swallow the bait, resulting in a deep hook-set that may prove fatal. Learning when to set the hook when fishing for a particular species with a particular bait or method takes trial and error. You’ll know when you’ve done it right: you’ll start catching lots of lip-hooked fish!

What if the fish swallows the hook? Most fish will be hooked in the mouth, where the hook is easily backed out and removed. Having needle-nosed pliers, commercial hook removers or hemostats makes the job easier. But sometimes the fish can swallow the bait – and the hook – which becomes impaled deep in the throat, possibly even be out of sight. If that’s the case, it’s almost always better to cut the line as close to the hook as you can and release the fish. The hook may rust away or dissolve over time or the fish may be able to live with the hook imbedded, and the fish’s chances of survival are better than if you probe around with pliers or a hook remover and do more damage.

What do I do if I get a snag? Snags are a part of fishing, and you need to be prepared to lose some terminal tackle and lures and have enough back-up line and tackle to keep on fishing. That said, when you do hang up, try wiggling the rod tip lightly while moving around to vary the angle of the pressure. If you can get upstream or to the far side of the snag from where you were when it originally hung up, you can often pull the hook free. What you don’t want to do is break your rod by flexing it violently overhead or to the side to try to force the hook free. If you’ve tried gently wiggling and shaking at all the angles

of pull available and the hook is still snagged, you should point the rod at the bait, reel the slack out of the line and, between the reel and the first guide, wrap a few turns around your hand if the line is light – say 12 pound test or less. You’ll want to have a towel around your hand, or wrap the line around a stick, if it is stronger than that, so as not to cut into your skin.

Don’t pull with the line going directly to the reel or it will dig into the remaining line on the spool, cutting it or creating problems there. Once you have a firm grip and all slack out of the line, keep your rod pointed directly at where the line enters the water, turn your head to the side to shield your face and eyes, and slowly back up. The line will break – or the hook will straighten or break free – and the rod won’t break in the process. Check the remaining line for worn knots or fraying, retie your terminal tackle and get back to the fishing!

Dan Armitage is a boating, fishing and travel writer based in the Midwest. He is a licensed (USCG Master) captain, hosts a syndicated radio show and presents kayaking fishing seminars at boat shows.