The Last Fjord

Spring 2009

Day Trips: Indian Arm

This is an article from WaveLength Magazine, available in print in North America and globally on the web.

To download a pdf copy of the magazine click here: > DOWNLOAD

by Bob Putnam

Location is one of the main attributes of paddling at Indian Arm. It’s about 30 minute away from Vancouver, which makes day trips very civilized. Even better is that when you paddle away from the shores of Deep Cove into Indian Arm you are entering a geographical setting that very few large cities can boast as having in their backyard. Indian Arm is a classic coastal fjord, the southernmost fjord on the west coast of North America. Narrow with steep mountains jutting skyward and dotted with small islands, it offers a variety of destinations for the day tripper. In addition to the kayaking, the village of Deep Cove is a great place to start or end your trip with a tasty treat.

For beginners: Consider Belcarra Park, a distance of about 5 to 6 km (3-4 miles) round-trip. Paddle south from Deep Cove on the western shore for approximately 1.5 km (1 mile) until you reach Gray Rocks Island. Circle the island and at a high you can paddle between the rocks on the eastern side of the island. Harlequin ducks can often be seen here. Paddle east, crossing the Indian Arm Channel to Boulder Island, a distance of about 1 km. From there you can paddle directly east to the green field of Belcarra Park. If you want to extend the trip, head south to Maple Beach and Admiralty Point, which is where Indian Arm meets Burrard Inlet and leads to Port Moody. From Belcarra you can paddle northwest, crossing the small bay to Hamber Island. The passage between Hamber Island and the eastern shore dries at low tide. All these islands are tiny, so paddling around takes no time at all. From Hamber you can cut directly across or paddle north until you see a rocky shoal. Then turn west back to Deep Cove.

Photos by Rob Newell.

For intermediate paddlers: Twin Island makes a great outing of about 10 km. From the beach paddle north across Deep Cove and along the west shore until you come to Lone Rock Point, also known as Danger Bay Island. This island was the lead-in shot for the old CBC show Danger Bay. Paddle 1 km across to Raccoon Island and then the second 1 km stretch to Twin Islands. Twin Island is a good spot to stretch your legs and eat lunch. As you return you can either paddle back to Raccoon Island and then Jug Island or you can paddle south along the eastern shore of Indian Arm past Ferrer Cove into Bedwell Bay. The western side of Bedwell Bay is a long peninsula with tiny Jug Island at the northern end. From there you can paddle directly west to cross Indian Arm to Deep Cove, a distance of about 2 km.

For advanced paddlers: Thwaytes Landing is about a 20-km trip. As above paddle north from Deep Cove along the west shore of Indian Arm, past Lone Rock Point, Brighton Beach and Camp Jubilee. Thwaytes is located just south of Best Point, the half-way point of Indian Arm. Thwaytes is good place to take lunch. Cross Indian Arm to the Power station on the eastern shore and then paddle south along shore past Twin Island, Raccoon Island, Jug Island and the turn west to Deep Cove.

Tips and hazards: Motorboat traffic can be very busy, especially during weekends in July and August. Stay close to shore when paddling north or south. Paddle in a pod when crossing, pay attention to the course of motorboats and make your intention obvious.

Anabatic winds build in the early afternoon and can make the return trip to Deep Cove very arduous when paddling from the northern reaches of Indian Arm.

Most of the shoreline is either privately owned or too steep to land on. The landing area at Thwaytes Landing is steep with large boulders. Twin Island, Jug Island, and Belcarra Park are the best spots to go ashore.

Bob Putnam is the owner of Deep Cove Canoe & Kayak Centre. See deepcovekayak.com for an interactive map and a webcam to help you plan your trip.