The River is My Ocean

Fall 2009

Rainforest Chronicles

This is an article from WaveLength Magazine, available in print in North America and globally on the web.

To download a pdf copy of the magazine click here: DOWNLOAD

By Dan Lewis

Many moons ago a river canoeing buddy from Alberta joined me for a sea kayaking trip to Johnstone Strait. As we flushed through Blackney Pass on an out-going tide, Jim commented that “the ocean is like a huge lake that behaves like a humongous river.” Yep, you got that right, Jimmy. We’re flushing out to sea!

Every day a massive exchange of water takes place along the BC coast. As the tide rises, the current floods up the inlets from the sea, and as the tide falls the waters ebb back to sea. The forces of the cosmos acting on the earth’s oceans are made visible in this daily parade of liquid, sometimes subtly, sometimes spectacularly.

There is nothing like the feeling of paddling across a wide channel like Juan de Fuca Strait and noticing that the whole body of water is actually moving. Watching distant mountains slide by, one feels dwarfed by the sheer bigness of it all. It can be very humbling, a useful experience for a species that thinks it is the master of the universe.

You can see the current if you look. For example, standing on the wharf in downtown Tofino, you might notice that kayakers paddling away from town have to turn into the current to avoid being swept rapidly sideways. When cruising through narrow passageways you will notice back eddies along shore, separated from the main current by eddy lines – murmuring, gurgling, swirly zones where miniature whirlpools often form.

Part of the fun of paddling the BC coast is learning to take advantage of this powerful ally. I call it the "Magic Carpet Ride" – hop on and it will take you along, like a conveyor belt. Not only that, but every six hours it turns around and carries you back to where you started! I always plan my outings to take advantage of the currents.

(Actually, the sad truth is that although I plan my day according to the currents, as often as not I sleep late, linger over breakfast or get sucked into planting the garden. Then, at the worst possible moment, I leave and pound against the current. By the time I’m ready to turn around, so is the tide, and I pound home against it! But at least I had The Plan – there is some pride in knowing that I knew better.)

Going against the current offers unique pleasures and even advantages. In order to ride the Magic Carpet, you have to get away from shore. It is certainly fun to get that free ride, but it can be a bit boring paddling offshore, and you do have to watch out for traffic. If you find yourself paddling against the current, sneak in along shore and take advantage of the eddies. It is supremely satisfying to learn that even when the whole situation seems to be set against you, there is always a way to get where you want to go if you pay attention and think. Plus, the shoreline is where the sky, sea and land meet – a very dynamic environment.

Sea kayaking led me to river paddling in canoes and kayaks. From Tofino the good paddling rivers are too far to drive to, but I don’t miss them. There is a massive ocean river right on my doorstep. These days I get my kicks just heading for town. My favourite conditions are a sunny day with northwest winds at twenty-five knots, blowing against a big ebb current, causing steep, surfable waves – easy Class 2 whitewater to paddle while fetching the mail and groceries. What a ride!

Dan Lewis and Bonny Glambeck operate Rainforest Kayak Adventures in Clayoquot Sound.