Paddling the Cascade High Lakes

Summer 2008

This is an article from WaveLength Magazine, available in print in North America and globally on the web.
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by Suzanne Johnson

At the southern end of the Cascade mountain range in Oregon, nestled into a curve in the Deschutes River, the thriving little city of Bend draws in flocks of tourists to fly-fish the river, mountain bike the trails of the Deschutes National Forest, or wine and dine in the growing restaurant scene. Those who come to canoe or kayak often assume that the Deschutes River offers the best paddling opportunity, and thereby miss out on the breathtaking beauty of the Cascade High Lakes.

The Cascade Lakes Highway winds southwest out of Bend, through the Deschutes National Forest and up to the High Lakes, a string of liquid pearls tucked beneath the peaks of South Sister, Mt. Bachelor and Broken Top. The highway climbs eighteen miles before reaching Mount Bachelor Ski Resort, which is the end of the road for six months of the year. From mid-November well into May, the snow plows go no farther than the ski resort’s parking lot, and only those on Nordic skis or snowmobiles can venture beyond. By late May, the ten-plus feet of annual snowfall has melted, and the Cascade Lakes Highway shoots through the valley between Mount Bachelor and Broken Top Mountain, opening a veritable summer playground of lakes, rivers and trails.

The Cascade Lakes Highway is listed by the US Forest Service as an official scenic byway, and is worth the drive just to take in the scenery. The area’s volcanic history is evident in the looming fields of rough black volcanic boulders and red cinder rock. Towering ponderosa pines and junipers dominate the landscape, with patches of charred tree trunks serving as a reminder of the power of wildfire.

Located near the 44th parallel, equidistant from the North Pole and the equator, the High Lakes have over fifteen hours of daylight at the height of summer. Yet at 5000 feet above sea level, evening temperatures drop enough to keep glacial fields hanging on the peaks year round. As in many northern latitudes, the summer days stretch into long golden evenings, but the summer months are short-lived, and every minute is precious. And there’s nowhere better to spend them than in a canoe or kayak in the middle of a cold, clear alpine lake.

The High Lakes encompass over a dozen bodies of water ranging in scale from the 110 acre Little Lava Lake, headwaters of the Deschutes River, to Wickiup Reservoir, which covers 10,000 acres at full pool. Sailboat enthusiasts are drawn to the consistent winds of Elk Lake, while waterskiers and wakeboarders head to Crescent Lake or Cultus, where long stretches of calm water can usually be found. For paddlers seeking clear, calm water with excellent wildlife viewing, Sparks Lake and Hosmer Lake are the destinations of choice.

SPARKS LAKE

About seven miles west of Mt. Bachelor on the Cascade Lakes Highway, Sparks Lake is the first of the High Lakes visible from the road. The lake covers almost 400 acres, with a channel linking the northern and southern parts of the lake. Sparks is quite shallow, less than ten feet at its deepest point, making it the warmest of the High Lakes and most inviting for an invigorating swim.

Cutthroat and brook trout populate the lake and fishing is popular early in the season, dropping off as lake levels diminish. Another 350 acres of wetlands and wet meadows extend beyond the lake, attracting Rocky Mountain elk, beavers and raptors.

The volcanic activity that formed these lakes is evident today, especially around the shores of Sparks Lake. Remnants of the lava flows that originally diverted and dammed sections of the Deschutes River now exist as black pumice and basalt formations edging the lake and jutting up as small islands. They are both interesting and hazardous, as the sharp, rough surface can make shore access difficult and walking the lake bottom painful. Rafting sandals or water shoes with sturdy soles are highly recommended!

HOSMER LAKE

Continue west on Century Drive past Sparks Lake for about eight miles to find Hosmer Lake. Turn east onto Forest Road 4625 and drive about a mile to the lake. Before unloading the boat or fussing with gear, walk to the water’s edge and activate your senses. Early arrivals can catch the mist burning off the water, while the songbirds belt out their own personal anthems, and the occasional trout startles the surface in search of breakfast.

Like Sparks, Hosmer Lake is divided into two main open areas that are connected by a channel. With over 150 acres of lake to explore, you'll want to bring along some food and water to avoid trips back to the car. The lake water is clear enough to watch the torpedo shapes of Atlantic Salmon, rainbow and brook trout swimming below—polarized sunglasses define the view even more. The Atlantic Salmon are hatchery raised and managed by the Oregon Department of Fish and Wildlife. Their presence improves the fishing capacity for the lake. Hosmer is a flyfish-only lake. Small electric motors are allowed, but more fishing is done by float tube than motorboat, keeping the scene quiet and serene. Binoculars help to get up close and personal with the herons and bitterns stalking frogs in the reeds. One last suggestion: mountain runoff water stays cold and weather changes quickly, so pack a shell or fleece jacket.

Note: Like most sites maintained by the Forest Service, a parking pass is required at all High Lakes boat launch parking lots. Cars must display an Annual Northwest Forest Pass or Interagency Pass, or visitors can purchase a day pass onsite for five dollars per day.

DESCHUTES PADDLE TRAIL GUIDE

This summer is the perfect time to paddle the Cascade High Lakes, as the Bend Paddle Trail Alliance launches the first phase of the Deschutes Paddle Trail. Following two years of study, mapping and planning, the BPTA has produced a Deschutes Paddle Trail Guide, covering both the Deschutes River and the High Lakes. The lakes guide consists of a foldout map with driving directions, GPS information, boat launch and campground sites and safety information. It will be available for no cost by July 2008, at the Bend Visitor Center and local paddling shops. More information on the Deschutes Paddle Trail, the lakes guide and the river guide are available on the Bend Paddle Trail Alliance website (bendpaddletrailalliance.com).

LODGING AND DINING

For a weekend or extended stay, Bend lodging options range from campgrounds to cozy B&Bs to full service hotels. The Bend Visitor Center offers an online guide to lodging and dining at visitbend.com.

For those who’d prefer to avoid the bustle of town, cabin rentals are available along the shores of Elk Lake at the Elk Lake Resort. The cabins are equipped with full kitchens, but no cooking is required: the resort restaurant serves up hearty fare at breakfast, lunch and dinner. Dinner reservations are recommended.

Each of the High Lakes has one or more rustic campgrounds along its shores, maintained by the US Forest Service. The sites are available on a first come, first serve basis for RVs or tent camping, and during the height of summer, sites fill by Thursday afternoon for the weekend. Pit toilets are provided but bring your own drinking water. Some campgrounds charge a $6/night fee.