Launch at Nanaimo, then turn left

Fall 2008

Day Trip #3 - British Columbia

Beaches, islands and even a cave make Nanaimo an unexpected pleasure to paddle

This is an article from WaveLength Magazine, available in print in North America and globally on the web.

To download a pdf copy of the magazine click here: > DOWNLOAD

By John Kimantas

YOU MIGHT know Nanaimo for the wrong reason – passing through by ferry. After all, Nanaimo's Departure Bay ferry terminal is a major link to Vancouver Island and all its various attractions: Tofino, Clayoquot Sound, the West Coast Trail, Johnstone Strait. It's easy to simply slip by Nanaimo without a glance.

Some lucky kayakers know differently. There's one huge obvious attraction: Newcastle Island. Its treed shoreline is a scenic backdrop for the entrance to Nanaimo Harbour, providing trails, campsites, picnic spots, viewpoints and a rich history – all within minutes of the downtown, by either handy ferry or paddling.

For kayakers, paddling past the dramatic cliffs and stopping at the sandy beaches for a picnic lunch makes a half-day circumnavigation of the island time well spent.

Often overlooked, though, is what lies to the north of Newcastle Island (or to the left, if you will). Islands, reefs, lagoons, sand beaches, cliffs, a nature sanctuary and the Gulf Islands' only paddle-through sea cave can be found within just a few square miles. The gem is Jesse Island, a private sanctuary well protected by two vicious dogs, so be prepared for an aggressive greeting. However, offshore you're safe enough, despite the show of bared teeth, so it is safe to paddle the fretted sandstone cliffs and the caves – if you don't mind being under heavy canine watch as you pass.

You can extend a paddle around Newcastle to the right (south) as well, heading around residential Protection Island.

Where to paddle:

Beginners: The simplest launch site is at Brechin boat ramp, southeast of the ferry terminal adjacent to Alberni Outpost's Nanaimo Adventure Center, which offers rentals. Once in Newcastle Island Passage, novice paddlers can visit Newcastle Island (a beautiful beach awaits just across the launch site), or Nanaimo Harbour with its interesting shipyards and marinas in mostly sheltered waters.

Intermediate: A trip around Newcastle Island is always worthwhile, though a side trip to Jesse Island is an added bonus. The north shore is one of the most interesting in the Gulf Islands, with its sheer cliffs and caves to explore. From there one can follow the shore north to odd little Shack Island and the cliffs of Pipers Lagoon, a popular local park with a long, sandy beach.

Advanced: If open water is an attraction, a trip to Snake Island is worthwhile to see the unique limestone ridges and to paddle among the island's many seal inhabitants. Be warned, though: the island is a seabird nesting area and access is off-limits in the spring nesting season.

Tips and warnings: Winds can pick up in the afternoon, making even simple trips along Newcastle Island Passage arduous. The prevailing winds in good weather are northwest. Currents can also be strong through here, potentially slowing progress.

East of Nares Point on Newcastle Island the conditions are more exposed, with the possibility of wind waves and some swell. As the water is shallow, waves can break well offshore towards McKay Point. Ferries travel through Departure Bay and while sightlines are good, they move quickly. Submerged rocks near Nares Point can also be a hazard.