Maui, Molokai and Sea Turtles

Fall 2007

This is an article from WaveLength Magazine, available in print in North America and globally on the web.
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by Barb Roy

Maui and Molokai had been on my list of places to visit for a long time—the paddling and diving opportunities and the possibility of seeing sea turtles intrigued me. It was early November when I boarded my flight, leaving behind the start of another cold Canadian winter for Maui’s sunny, fragrant, tropical paradise.

For a better understanding of the island’s diversity, I joined a group from Maui Eco-Adventures, for a hike/kayak adventure package. In the company van we headed over winding, mountainous roads to the Nakalele coastline, Maui’s northernmost point, and the youngest lava flow on the island’s western side. During the three-mile hike, our guide led us along the coastline on an easy walking path just above turbulent, azure water. The black lava wasn’t barren, harsh or desolate, as I had expected; instead it was filled with patches of green foliage and colorful wild flowers. Our journey came to a pause at the cliff’s edge, where seawater blowholes erupted with geyser force.

Later we met Mick McAffe and Paul Anka from Kapalua Dive Company for the kayak/snorkel portion of the tour along the Kapalua coastline. Mick gave a short safety talk, then led us down to the beach where we launched the kayaks (sit-on-tops, easy for even novices to operate). He explained that it was possible we would encounter turtles or dolphins, but warned not to touch them while snorkeling because they are protected by federal and state regulations. “Let them come to you. Don’t ride or chase them. Just have patience and they often come over to you because they are curious.”

The water was calm and the sun high as we paddled along the coast to a protected cove, with Paul and I bringing up the rear. Paul explained that the turtle population was slowly making a comeback. “Since they take ten to fifty years to reach sexual maturity, averaging around twenty-five years, the protection status has helped. We have noticed their numbers increasing over the years because the encounters and sightings are increasing.”

A sudden splash between our boats interrupted our conversation, followed by the bobbing head of a green sea turtle. Another larger head popped up next to it. I almost jumped in, but the group had already entered the cove ahead and Paul assured me we would see more there. Sure enough, there were several turtles at the surface watching the kayaks pass by. Mick tied the boats together and passed out snorkeling gear. When not in the water observing the graceful turtles, our group joined some local kids who were climbing a rocky overhang and diving into the water.

In the evening I attended a cultural dinner show of Hawaiian cuisine at the Old Lahaina Luau. The dancers performed ancient songs and dances while telling celebrated stories of their past.

My next adventure was with 5 Star Scuba for a shore dive at Black Rock, where green turtles are seen on a regular basis. Joshua Bischoff was my underwater guide. Since this was a regular dive site for Josh, he was very familiar with the turtles and told me how to tell males from females. “The males have long, thick tails, while the females have short, stubby ones. Until they are mature, it’s hard to tell them apart. I usually see at least several on every dive. The snorkelers and kayakers at the surface also see them regularly.”

I followed Josh into the water and around a huge, black, rocky cliff, with camera in hand. Once submerged, we headed for deeper water. The fish were not as plentiful as in the cove the previous day, but were colorful nevertheless. I scanned the sandy floor for any signs of partially buried skates or rays. Josh was ahead checking out a lava formation when he noticed a young sea turtle cruise over to see what I was doing. Oblivious to my new shadow, I continued to drift over the sand until I came across a large male turtle sleeping under a rocky shelf. The young female turtle moved in front of me as if diverting my attention. She seemed to want to lead me away from the larger one, or perhaps she just wanted all the attention. For over twenty minutes she stayed with us, mainly hovering in our exhalation bubbles. Making our way back to shore, we came across four other turtles near the surface around a group of snorkelers.

A dive and kayak tour with Molokai Fish and Dive was next on my agenda the following day. We saw more resident turtles and enjoyed a healthy, colorful reef full of fish and invertebrate life. Other marine critters included a spotted eagle ray, a small pod of dolphins and a huge Pacific manta at the surface.

Before my day ended I took my rental car out for an exploratory drive to see the island up close. Winding, mountainous, one-lane coastal roads led me on a seemingly endless journey past more breathtaking scenery, beautiful wildflowers and indigenous birds.

We launched our kayaks from Kaunakakai Harbor the next morning as the sun greeted the day. There were four of us in individual sit-on-tops, including our guide. We paddled across a shallow bay to the outer perimeter of Molokai’s barrier reef, towards the mangroves at the far side of the bay. A small powerboat also accompanied us for support, carrying our lunch and extra water. I could see fish, small skates and crabs below in the clear water. Thinking of the movie Castaway with Tom Hanks, I grabbed up one of the floating coconuts and tossed it into my boat.

“Mangrove forests are not common in Hawaii,” announced the guide as he paused in front of the mangroves. “These trees were originally planted to prevent shore erosion, but quickly became overgrown. They now serve as a sanctuary for fish, birds and insects.”
We entered a narrow, tangled tunnel of exposed roots, large enough to paddle through. For ease of movement, our guide had us separate the paddle and use just one end, like a canoe paddle. Mr. Coconut and I brought up the rear. At first the route was easy, but the forest seemed to be swallowing us up, making it harder to paddle. Finally I just used my gloved hands to pull myself along through smells of stagnant water and the noises of resident birds. Rays of light drizzled down like droplets of rain. After about three kilometres (2 miles) we exited into a clearing, still within the mangroves. Unfortunately, Mr. Coconut had fallen off somewhere en route.

“This is a favorite fishing hole for many old Hawaiians,” explained our guide. “They have been coming to the deeper water here and to other secret spots within the mangroves for years.”

Before departing Maui I stopped for a visit at the Maui Ocean Center at the Ma’alaea Harbor Village. Opening in 1998, the Center offers over 60 interesting exhibits and a Shark Dive in their 750,000 gallon Open Ocean exhibit. Certified divers, fifteen-years-old and up, can swim with over twenty sharks, stingrays and numerous tropical fish found around Hawaii.

The last exhibit I visited was the green sea turtle display. There I found a tank full of young, healthy turtles. An aquarium caregiver explained that these turtles are part of a hatch-and-release program to enhance the Hawaiian populations. “They were actually named because of the color of their body fat. They have been protected under the U.S. Endangered Species Act since 1973. As with most sizable sea creatures, no two turtles have the exact same markings, making them somewhat identifiable for scientists and researchers. Their life span is estimated to be over 100 years. In the Hawaiian Islands we call these gentle air-breathing animals Honu, but they inhabit all of the world’s oceans.”

I was glad that I had finally found time for a visit to Maui and Molokai. It was an enjoyable escape from the grey winter skies of home, and seeing sea turtles was a bonus.

TRAVEL INFORMATION

Accommodations
Hayatt Regency Maui – (Lahaina) 808-661-1234, www.maui.hyatt.com
The Old Wailuku Inn At Ulupono – (Wailuku, Maui), 800-305-4899 or 808-244-5897, www.mauiinn.com
Hotel Molokai – (Kamehameha) 808-553-5347, www.hotelmolokai.com
Outrigger Royal Kahana Resort – 800-688-7444 or 808-669-5911, www.outrigger.com/hotels or http://royal-kahana.com

Paddling Companies
Kapalua Dive Company – (Lahaina) 808-385-8065 or 808-669-3448, www.kapaluadive.com
Kelii’s Kayak Tours – (Lahaina) 888-874-7652 or 808-874-7652, www.keliiskayak.com
Molokai Fish & Dive – (Kaunakakai) 808-553-5926, www.molokaifishanddive.com (also offers scuba diving and cultural hikes)

Adventure & Activities
Maui Eco-Adventures (Lahaina) 877-661-7720 or 808-661-7720, www.ecomaui.com
Maui Ocean Center – (Wailuku) 808-270-7000, Shark Dive Maui – 808-270-7075, www.mauioceancenter.com
5 Star Scuba – (6 resort locations on Maui), 808-667-5551, www.5starscuba.com
Drums of the Pacific Luau – (Hayatt Resort in Maui), 808-667-4727
Old Lahaina Luau – 808-667-1998, www.oldlahainaluau.com
Molokai Outdoors – 877-553-4477 or 808-553-4477, (Kayaking, hiking, biking, cultural tours) www.molokai-outdoors.com
Trilogy Excursions – 888-225-MAUI or 808-661-4743, www.sailtrilogy.com

Visitor & Tourism Bureaus
Maui – 800-398-9698 or 808-871-7947, www.visitmaui.com
Molokai Visitors Association – 800-800-6367 or 808-553-3673, www.molokai-hawaii.com
Lanai – 808-565-3240, www.visitlanai.net

Books
A Pocket Guide to Hawaii’s Underwater Paradise by John P. Hoover
Lonely Planet’s Guide to Hawaii or Maui, www.lonelyplanet.com