Kayaking the Inner Vancouver

Fall 2007

This is an article from WaveLength Magazine, available in print in North America and globally on the web.
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by Hans Tammemagi

I had heard that False Creek, which curves like an intestine into the abdomen of Vancouver, offers unmatched views of one of North America’s most vibrant cities. So, as a newcomer to the west coast, one sun-washed day I found myself in a kayak pushing off from a dock on Granville Island to see for myself. Looking north, the vista was full of highrise towers of glass and concrete soaring skyward like rapiers with the sun glinting from their polished sides. To the left, two bridges arched high overhead spanning the waterway, their enormous concrete and steel footings like giant elephant’s legs. And all around our kayaks, which seemed small and insignificant, boats bustled about in every direction.

“This is urban kayaking,” explained Jeff, our Ecomarine Kayak guide in quiet understatement, “it’s a bit different from wilderness touring.” But I was excited, for paddling in a thrumming cityscape has its own charm and character.

Jeff planned two loops like a figure of eight: in the morning we would paddle east and circle False Creek, and in the afternoon, after lunch on Granville Island, we would venture west into English Bay.

We started amongst a forest of swaying masts. Every inch of dock was crammed as we paddled under the smooth hulls of untold millions of dollars of sailboats, cabin cruisers and catamarans, many visiting from other locales such as Portland, Monterey and the Cayman Islands. A hand-lettered sign nailed to a piling offered “Fresh Fish For Sale.”

In the main channel, the breeze was light and sunlight sparkled on the water. Snow-capped mountains peeked from behind the city skyline. Paddling was easy and wonderfully relaxing, but we had to be alert, as everywhere we looked marine traffic was cruising, maneuvering and docking. Tiny ferries—Aquabuses—raced here and there like bathtub toys.

We paddled east down the busy main channel, passing the Ocean Cement plant—the last of many industrial sites that formerly lined False Creek. Soon we reached Monks Bar and Restaurant and zig-zagged through crustacean-encrusted pilings under the cool shade of its deck. Jeff explained that for over a millennium, natives of the Squamish Nation camped near here, living off the rich abundance of the sea.

Next we passed the dusty construction site where the 2010 Olympic Village is rising, and reached the eastern end of the Creek, marked by the golf-ball-like geodesic dome of Science World. Jeff explained that when this waterway was discovered in 1859 by Captain George Richards during a hydrographic survey by the Royal Navy, it was named False Creek because it dead-ended. At that time the Creek stretched further inland, but was partly filled in during the early 1900s to make yards for the Canadian Northern Pacific Railway.

We turned around and paddled westward along the north shore, past BC Place Stadium and the soaring, crowded skyline of trendy Yaletown, where construction cranes mingle with skyscrapers.

The selection of this area by the CPR as the terminus for its transcontinental railway in 1884 was a momentous decision that was to build Vancouver into a major metropolis. But it was a rocky start, as the False Creek area soon became an ugly industrial centre. In the shadow of the cement plant’s looming silos, Jeff described how by the end of World War Two, False Creek was lined with smoke-belching mills and had become a filthy ditch littered with sewage, industrial waste and log booms.

Around 1970, an amazing revitalization began. The sprawling CPR lands were turned over to the city, contaminated sediments were dredged and Expo 86 was successfully held on the shores of False Creek. Best of all, a seawall was built, allowing all Vancouverites access to the water and providing a delightful trail around Stanley Park, False Creek and on to the University of British Columbia. Vancouver was transformed into one of the prettiest cities in the world, and one of the best to live in. And here we were, drinking it all in at water level!

Two dragon boats laboured past, the paddlers sweating to the beat of a drum. In addition to power and sail boats, we saw canoes, kayaks and sculls, testimony that False Creek has become an immensely popular recreational waterway.

Nearing a group of houseboats, the smooth head of a seal popped out of the water and inspected me with large, endearing eyes.

As the sun reached its zenith, we returned to Granville Island and meandered amongst funky cafes, restaurants and craft shops; at the market we chose cheeses, olives and panini for lunch. Now one of the most vibrant areas of Vancouver, a rusty rail line along a cobble-stoned alley and a welding shop stuck incongruously between a coffee bar and an art shop are reminders of the island’s industrial past.
Refreshed, we paddled westward passing under the immense Burrard and Granville bridges. Bobbing at water level I felt a smug satisfaction at being removed from the fume-spewing rat race that roared overhead.

Unexpectedly, a tugboat churned around the corner pulling an enormous barge laden with gravel for the cement plant, leaving us rocking in its wake.

As English Bay opened up before us, the mood changed. Now we were in open ocean with a brisk wind and large waves, some with whitecaps. We paddled carefully, mindful of larger waves and wakes from passing boats. Farther out, about a dozen ocean-going freighters lay at anchor like abandoned waifs, waiting for their turn at the wharf.

Following the south shore we soon reached the Maritime Museum. After a brief stop, we continued to Kitsilano Beach with its swimming pools and pier.

We turned north. As Jeff led us across open water toward Second Beach in Stanley Park, there was an uncomfortable feeling of exposure. In the distance, a lone red kayak rode the crests and disappeared in the troughs.

Arriving at Stanley Park, we followed the famous seawall. We waved to passing cyclists, walkers and roller-bladers, admired the informal artwork of balancing rocks and were awed by the power of the winter storm which left thousands of trees uprooted.

We turned around at Siwash Rock, which by native legend is a brave young chief cast into stone by the gods because of his love for his wife. Jeff explained that we could not go past Lions Gate Bridge, as unpowered boats are not allowed in Burrard Inlet.

With a flood tide and the wind at our backs, we lolly-gagged along, admiring the beaches along the north shore and their backdrop of soaring condominiums.

Nearing our dock, an elegant cruiser oozing of money motored down the middle of the channel. Waving back to the captain, I thought that I wouldn’t trade places with him for anything.

If You Go

For Rentals, Tours, Lessons: Ecomarine Ocean Kayak Centre. www.ecomarine.com

Where to Launch: Ecomarine on Granville Island or at Vanier Park.

Accommodation: Granville Island Hotel. www.granvilleislandhotel.com

Events: Ocean Kayak Marathon in July with 5 and 10 km courses. www.ecomarine.com/adventure/ev_marathon.html

Jericho Ocean Man: swimming, running and paddling race in August. www.oceanman.ca