Discovering Loreto

October-November 2006

This is an article from WaveLength Magazine, available in print in North America and globally on the web.
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by James Michael Dorsey

Sunrise breaks early on the Sea of Cortez, bathing everything in a velvety, yellow blanket and dramatically silhouetting the low buildings of a quiet town.

Loreto is the kind of place north Americans like to call ‘sleepy’, with its mañana atmosphere. The smell of fresh tortillas floats on the morning air, mingled with brewed coffee, and if you catch the sunrise from the beach, you can watch the pangaderos launching to fish for Dorado.

In Loreto, the old world collides with the new, when on any given morning dozens of sleek new fiberglass kayaks slip into the water alongside aging pangas. In the past few years, Loreto has become a major paddling destination. For those seeking a warm, winter getaway, this is as good as it gets.

The Sierra Giganta Mountains add a majestic purple backdrop as they tower over the town, rising out of the morning mist. This rugged pile of lava and ash is the backbone of Baja, running south all the way to LaPaz. Loreto snuggles up against the foothills amid palms and Cordon cactus—a spectacular setting.

In Loreto proper, the church of Nuestra Senora de Loreto dominates the central square. Founded around 1700 by Father Juan Maria Salvatierra, this once thriving city was the capital of the Americas under Spanish rule, and was the capital of Baja for 127 years until a massive earthquake reduced the adobe to ruin and the government moved to Monterey, California. It was from Loreto that Juniperro Serra headed north to found the chain of California missions.

Today, you are more likely to see a new SUV with a kayak rack than a burro bringing corn to the morning market.

The Sea of Cortez is 868 miles long by 130 miles wide. In 2005, UNESCO (United Nations Educational, Scientific, Cultural Organization) declared it a world heritage site. Its cobalt clear waters are home to the blue whale, the largest creature to ever roam the planet, along with giant mantas, hammerhead sharks and an occasional orca. About 40% of the world’s cetaceans can be found in its waters, including a tiny whale no more than two feet long called a vaquita, which is now almost extinct.

In this sea, there are over 100 islands, of which 53 have been protected since 1978, the largest being Tiburon (Shark) Island at 620 square miles. These islands are home to 3500 different plant species and 120 different cacti, plus blue and brown footed boobies, chuckwallas (large lizards) several different rattlesnakes and the cimmaron goat.

Directly across from the harbor at Loreto is Isla Carmen, inhabited mostly by goats and rattlesnakes. Only a few miles south is the beautiful Danzante Island where you can hardly walk along the beach without stepping on a magnificent shell and where dolphin routinely jump at sunset, to the entertainment of visiting paddlers.

Gliding over the crystal clear littoral, a paddler can see thirty feet into the colorful world of sea stars, anemones and trigger fish. You are also likely to have a dolphin escort, sometimes numbering in the thousands.

South of Loreto, the scenery runs from pristine white beaches to the most primordial looking volcanic rock formations. South of nearby Danzante Island, you can paddle for days without seeing another person.

Most paddlers follow the coast south, camping on the beaches wherever night finds them. For those needing accommodations, there are numerous organized campsites and occasionally a government-built palapa with electrical hookups, available for a couple of dollars a night. The last time I stopped at one of these palapas, there was no one around. There was simply an old coffee can with a note asking anyone who used the facilities to leave some money.

The beach camper might see an occasional coyote and it’s a good idea to check your sandals in the morning for that scorpion who curled up to catch your leftover body heat. You will be treated to some of the most spectacular sunsets imaginable.

While Baja is still wild by most standards, the old stories of bandits are mostly just that. For the most part, Baja has become tourist-friendly over the years as visitors have injected dollars into the local economy.

If you drive the length of the peninsula along historic Highway One, you will see the Green Angels along the way. These green and white trucks are provided by the government to aid foreign travelers in need. They will change a flat tire, likely have bottled water or gas, and if a repair is not too major, they can often make it on the spot. If not, they will make sure you get a safe tow to the nearest mechanic. Pemex is the government-owned and operated gas company that has a monopoly on petrol south of the border. There are stations at all major towns along the way.

The ironic fact about Loreto is that it became a paddling haven in spite of itself. There is only one watersport shop in town that rents a small assortment of sit-on-top kayaks. Most of the beachfront hotels provide kayaks for their guests, but serious paddlers must bring their own, or rent from an outfitter (Sea Kayak Adventures or Baja Kayak Adventures).

As for the city itself, it is a wanderer’s delight. The old mission is a must see and there are countless little shops offering delicate seashell jewelry, attractive, locally made rugs and native handicrafts such as masks and wood carvings. For those used to the bustle of a big city, Loreto is a step back in time to old Mexico. The numerous restaurants offer delicious and inexpensive food and the people are very tourist friendly.

So if the thought of paddling through another cold and wet winter has you thinking of sunshine, cool breezes and crystal blue water, take a long look at Loreto. Paddling gets no better than this.

HOW TO GET THERE
One of the best websites for travel in Mexico is www.mexonline.com. It’s easy to navigate this site and it is full of information about anyplace you want to go.

It will give you a complete listing of hotels in Loreto that start at about $10 US per night and go up to five star luxury. I have stayed in several different hotels in this town and they were all clean and efficient.

IF YOU DRIVE
Take Highway One south all the way. It is a narrow but well maintained road that runs from Tijuana in the north to LaPaz in the south. There are lots of dangerous curves, especially in the higher regions, and Mexican drivers love to pass on blind curves, but for the most part, it is safe and well regulated and is patrolled regularly by the Green Angels.

There are several medium-sized towns along the two to three-day drive that offer clean and inexpensive hotels with meals for the weary traveler. You can expect to pay less than $50 US for an evening’s lodging.

IF YOU FLY
There are limited flights to Loreto but two major carriers provide regular service. Alaska Airlines has two weekly non-stops from Los Angeles. 800-252-7522, www.alaskaair.com.

Aero Mexico is a larger Mexican carrier with more flights available, www.aeromexico.com, US phone 800-237-6639, from Mexico, 01-800-021-4010.

© James Dorsey is a widely traveled freelance writer/photographer and a marine naturalist for the American Cetacean Society.
www.jamesdorsey.com.