Know Your Neighbours: Florida Paddling

October-November 2005

This is an article from WaveLength Magazine, available in print in North America and globally on the web.
To download a pdf copy of the magazine click here: > DOWNLOAD

by Bryan Nichols

Florida has a lot to offer sea kayakers, even if it is flat, riddled by unsustainable development and has considerably more violent crime than many other states. If the contrast strikes you as odd, read on—Ponce de Leon’s ‘flowery’ peninsula is a study in contrasts.

It’s impossible for me to write about Florida in strictly glowing terms (apologies to the formidable Florida tourism folks). There are far too many gated communities, strip malls, handguns and lawyer billboards.

On the other hand, there is a surprising variety of protected and restored areas, including impressive county parks, an ambitious State Park system, National Parks, Preserves, Monuments, Seashores and Wildlife Refuges. A column or two ago I talked about the problems Florida’s easy-to-bulldoze coast causes for wilderness protection—this time around I’ll give you lots of reasons to visit the state with sea kayaking in mind.

SUNSHINE (SO FINE)

The so-called Sunshine State does get a lot of sunshine—the weather really is excellent. Most of the state stays sunny and warm for much of the winter, a quirk of North American geography that has endeared the area to people from the rest of the continent for many decades. Hordes of northerners have retired here and numerous others visit for a temporary reprieve from their winter chill. The tradition of parting those visitors from their money continues unabated—Florida’s elaborate theme parks are world famous. The state has been a tourist trap for a surprisingly long time and some of the original ‘roadside attractions’ have considerable kitschy appeal—from mermaids at Weeki Wachee to a wide assortment of reptile farms featuring gators. Still, no theme park can create such consistently great weather, and sunshine remains a primary reason to visit in the winter.

AND FOR US PADDLERS…

The marketing folks might call it the Sunshine State, but Homer Simpson and I both prefer the catchier ‘America’s Whang’. Look at a map—Florida dangles off the southeast corner of the continent, plunging due south into semi-tropical conditions and ending in a dribble of islands formed by old coral reefs. The peninsular shape provides for a whole lot of coastline, and different regions have their own distinct character. Starting from Georgia and going clockwise, you’ll find:

1. the East Coast, with its huge beaches, lagoons, Atlantic surf and Miami/Lauderdale sprawl 2. the Caribbean-like islands of the Florida Keys, connected by a highway that crosses a whole lot of bridges 3. the West Coast with its sugar sand beaches and calm waters 4. the marshy Panhandle at the top of the Gulf of Mexico

There are zillions of paddling possibilities along all that coast, and forward looking types are putting together something immensely ambitious—the Florida Circumnavigation Saltwater Paddling Trail. It’s early yet, but check it out and stay tuned (www.dep.state.fl.us/ gwt/paddling/saltwater.htm). If you would like to help with this exciting project, call Doug at 850-421-3677 or email him at doug. alderson@dep.state.fl.us.

Because it’s so darn flat, there’s plenty of easy estuary and fresh water paddling as well—you’ll be amazed at how far upriver you can get after heading inland from the coast (you can allegedly paddle over 300 km up the Suwanee River, for instance).

Sea Kayak Mothership Ursa Major Explore in Comfort and Safety: Custom trips in Southeast Alaska and Pacific Northwest www.myursamajor.com 206-310-2309 One of the advantages of visiting Florida is that if you arrive by plane you can actually get sea kayaks here. There are shops scattered throughout the state—a search on the internet will likely find one or two close to where you’d like to paddle. Many provide mostly sit-on-tops, so if you’re planning on touring be sure to check.

Finally, the sea kayaking in Florida is varied—you can do multi- day wilderness trips, surf Atlantic waves, day trip through wildlife refuges or practice your skills in warm water off sunny beaches. All that variety means you can make it a dedicated kayak tour visit, work some paddling in between theme parks, or rent a boat for an afternoon of play or practice at the beach. Following are ten interesting things to consider.

RED TIDES & HURRICANES

Ignorance isn’t bliss, and every paddler should know a bit about these before visiting Florida. Red tides are interesting, but paddling through them isn’t something you’ll want to do regularly. Caused by somewhat mysterious blooms of a toxic plankton, the west coast seems particularly prone. This year a prolonged and deadly outbreak killed just about everything in some areas, from two meter bull sharks off downtown St. Petersburg, to sponge colonies many kilometers offshore. As a paddler you’ll notice murky water, irritation to your eyes and lungs, and a whole lot of dead fish. Terrified of hurricanes? These days you probably should be—I’ve been threatened or grazed by at least six in the short while I’ve been here. Fortunately for most northern visitors, hurricanes need heat—the season runs from July through October when the ocean is warmest. That’s also the muggiest, buggiest and most thunderstorm-prone season, so it’s best to avoid a visit then, especially if you’re planning on doing any kayak touring.

For more on Florida

30 Eco-Trips in Florida: The Best Nature Excursions (and How to Leave Only Your Footprints)

by Holly Ambrose

University Press of Florida, 2005

ISBN 0-8130-2850-7 $19.95 US, 368 pp, b/w photos, index

www.upf.com

The ‘30’ part of this book’s title doesn’t do it justice, as in fact, it contains a wealth of information for a lifetime of exploring Florida’s wild places. Despite its reputation for swampland and over development, Florida is home to three national forests, eleven national parks, 157 state parks, 28 national wildlife refuges and additional protected public lands in each county. Author Holly Ambrose, editor of the magazine, EcoFlorida, has divided the state into thirty areas within four geographic regions. For each of these thirty areas, she provides information to encourage you to ‘know before you go’ so that your wilderness experience is the best it can be. The ‘What To Do There’ text is organized under headings—Trail Tripping, Paddling and Boating, Guided Tours, Nearby Natural Areas, Nearby Attractions. She also includes information about wildlife, habitats, where to stay, and how to get there. From this smorgasbord of information, you can plan a trip to suit your interests. This very comprehensive guide will open your eyes to Florida’s natural beauty whether you are a resident or a visitor.

Seakayaking Florida - 10 Cool Things

sign - welcome to the swanee river trail

BIG BEND WILDERNESS

Ironically, the marshy coastal area southeast of Florida’s capital Tallahassee is relatively bereft of people. Thanks largely to the lack of beaches, wilderness type paddling can be found here. If you’d rather see more blue sky, ocean and wildlife than people, this area is probably your best bet.

canoeing the wilderness waterway - florida

EVERGLADES WILDERNESS

At the opposite end of the state, the River of Grass flows slowly across Everglades National Park, from Lake Okeechobee to the sea. There is some seasonally splendid coastal wilderness paddling here, though in summer the clouds of insects and threat of hurricanes make it less desirable. Check out the kayak trails on the park’s website.

SPRINGS

Located mostly in the north, Florida’s springs are true wonders— clear, cool water issues from the limestone, occasionally at volumes sufficient to create entire rivers. In rare cases (like Weeki Wachee) these spring fed rivers flow directly to the sea but more often they merge with much muddier looking ‘blackwater’ rivers that drain Florida’s extensive swamps. Regardless, they make for fascinating paddling, great swimming and even occasional scuba diving.

MANATEES

It wouldn’t be right to talk about sea kayaking in Florida without mentioning manatees. These large, herbivorous marine mammals are endangered in the state but can be found just about anywhere in shallow coastal waters and estuaries. Winter cold concentrates them near springs (and power plants), making them much easier to see if you don’t mind the crowds.

DOLPHINS

Manatees keep a low profile in coastal waters, so paddlers are more likely to notice dolphins. The big estuaries have dozens of residents that can be regularly spotted, and more frolic off the beaches— channels between islands are good places to look. Paddling in water just a meter or two deep as a group of dolphins cruises by is definitely a highlight.

ALLIGATORS

Florida and the edges of nearby states are the only place in the world to see alligators, one of the larger crocodilians. You might see one passing through salty water but they thrive in fresh. Head up rivers and creeks and you’ll probably see plenty, sunning themselves on the low banks or silently submerging into the choclately water as you approach.

LONG LEGGED BIRDWATCHING

The last wildlife I’ll mention are birds with long legs. Storks, cranes, ibises, egrets and herons are abundant near water in Florida. As a visiting sea kayaker you’ll likely get an eyeful of feathers. Bring big birding binoculars and proudly wear your pastel pants up as high as possible.

MANGROVE TUNNELS

You’ll find canoe or kayak trails through mangrove tunnels at a wide variety of paddling destinations around Florida. It’s quite nifty to venture into stands of these salt tolerant trees—even in the shadow of civilization it’s like instantly vanishing into the jungle. Some destinations will provide ‘trail’ posts and a map to get you through—in others you’ll be on your own, venturing down tunnels, discovering lagoons and dead ends, and drifting past fish lurking among the roots, and herons in the tangled trunks.

PEOPLE WATCHING

Sick of wildlife? Wouldn’t you rather paddle among women in bikinis or guys in Speedos? Crowded beach paddling might be a fascinating cultural experience for you, especially if you’re used to rugged wilderness scenery. An added benefit—while weaving in and out of all the sunburnt human drama, you’ll be able to stop for margaritas, ice cream, gourmet seafood or cheeseburgers (in paradise).

kayak further out facing condominiums on water

URBAN CANALS

For those of you who need a break from nature (you know who you are), many areas in Florida offer a surreal opposite. The flat terrain allows developers to create immense, maze-like systems of narrow canals that connect the back yards of hundreds of houses to the ocean. The water might be skanky and power boats often chug by, but at least they’ll be going slow.Meanwhile you’ll get to check out some spectacular real estate—you can make it a lifestyles of the rich, waterfront properties tour. Or squint and try to imagine you’re in Venice, Italy.