Idaho's Whitewater Jewel

June-July 2005

This is an article from WaveLength Magazine, available in print in North America and globally on the web.
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by Ian Kramer

Stunning Scenery makes for a memorable trip.

Claiming more than 80 whitewater rapids, multiple hotsprings, abundant wildlife, waterfalls, miners’ claims and Indian cultural sites, Idaho’s Middle Fork of the Salmon River excites, entertains and relaxes those lucky enough to float on its ancient and ever-changing surface.

Ranked as one of the top ten whitewater rivers in the world and one of only eight rivers to be included in the original Wild and Scenic Rivers Act of 1968, the Middle Fork of the Salmon is the crown jewel of Idaho’s vast river system.

Idaho is home to more floatable whitewater rivers than any other state and the Middle Fork alone spans more than 100 miles. The river carves its passage through the center of the Frank Church River of No Return Wilderness, the largest and most remote wilderness area in the lower 48 states, with nearly 2.4 million acres of rugged and diverse terrain.

Nestled amid the looming Sawtooth Mountain range, the sleepy mountain valley town of Stanley (population 70) is the staging point for most journeys down the Middle Fork of the Salmon River. Arriving on Thursday evening, we check into the Mountain Village Lodge, our last taste of civilization before setting out on the wild Salmon River. We grab a quick meal then head to the main lodge for an informal meeting with our river guides.

Les Bechdel, a seasoned outfitter from Canyons Incorporated and member of the Middle Fork Outfitters Association, greets and introduces us to our fellow-floaters through a fun and informal roundtable. Les discusses the route we will be taking, river etiquette and safety guidelines while the children in the group shyly scout the faces of their soon-to-be playmates.

Strolling back up the cobbled path to our small, rustic cabin with a little anxiety and a lot of excitement, we settle down for a final night of sheltered slumber before our six-day, backcountry adventure.

Visitors have a thrilling adventure in this unique environment.

After enjoying a leisurely breakfast, we load our gear into the dry-bags provided by our outfitter and board the retired school bus that bounces us along the windy dirt road to Boundary Creek, the put-in point for the Middle Fork.

The boats are in the water and mostly loaded as the guides welcome us and quickly stow our personal gear. Soon, the large sweep boat, carrying the camping and personal gear for most of the twenty guests, pushes off and begins its journey down the narrow river channel.

As the sweep boat slowly drifts away, our guides discuss river safety procedures with their fresh crop of adventurers. We strap on life-preservers, hop aboard the vessel of our choice—paddle boat, inlatable kayak or oar-boat—and let the river carry us away.

Beginning as a narrow channel barely deep enough to float on, the crystal clear waters of the Middle Fork soon transform into a mighty river that has carved the third deepest gorge in the United States.

The scenery along the river is just as diverse—jagged, rocky peaks unveil gorgeous, green mountain valleys, and a wildfire ravaged landscape gives way to high-desert sagebrush and sawtooth ridges. The meandering river offers plenty of time to relax, but one simply cannot absorb it all.

We travel nearly twenty miles daily and camp at a beautiful, serene and relaxing spot along the river each evening. A day spent charging through whitewater rapids, floating leisurely on slack water, hiking trails to hotsprings, investigating old miners’ claims, learning about the Indian cultural sites and fishing for innumerable trout, leaves us exhausted. The last thing any of us want to do is pitch camp.

Lucky for us, the sweep boat that leads our pack down the river each day arrives hours before we do, and the diligent outfitters have already set up camp for the night. This luxury leaves us with the terribly difficult job of continuing our relaxation— visiting the nearby hotsprings, watching the sunset, playing on the kayaks, hiking, taking a fly-fishing lesson—you know, the hard part.

Each night we enjoy excellent cuisine and spend our evening unwinding by the warmth and glow of the camp fire. Using a simple Dutch-oven our guides create great food including ginger marinated salmon steaks, spinach lasagna and rich pecan rum cake.

It’s nights like these that truly soothe the soul—sipping a glass of wine, laughing and sharing stories while the ancient river bubbles in the background. We brush our teeth and breathe the fresh, crisp mountain air before retiring to the comfy inflatable mattresses that our guides have provided.

Not only do our guides do a terrific job of navigating the rapids and keeping us safe, but they also pitch our tents, unload gear, cook amazing meals, wash dishes and entertain us with stories of the river and its rich history. Even after all of this work, the smiles and goodwill they project toward their guests is genuine and constant. I admire their unceasing energy and vigor. The kids especially enjoy their company and tales.

Everyone does their best to let the guides’ carefree attitudes rub off and by the end of the trip we have transformed from a random group of strangers to a tight-knit, boisterous group of adventurers—exchanging email addresses and phone numbers before returning to our normal lives.

Trying to capture the beauty and serenity of Idaho’s Middle Fork of the Salmon River with words is like trying to nail a glob of jello to the wall. The experience is lifealtering and unforgettable.

If you go, six days will not seem like enough, and long after you return to the fast pace of your daily routine, you will stop and listen for the ancient voice of the Middle Fork that now lives on within you.

© Ian Kramer is an Idaho-based freelance writer who has traveled widely. His goal is to share adventures and explore unique destinations worldwide. He can be contacted at ikramer@liquidmass.com. Photos courtesy of the Middle Fork of the Salmon River Outfitters Association: www.idahosmiddlefork.com.