Off-Season—Nootka and Kyuquot

October-November 2004

This is an article from WaveLength Magazine, available in print in North America and globally on the web.
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by Cristina Lepore

The west coast of Vancouver Island is a great place to paddle in the off-season, especially if you are interested in following the cycles of wildlife, plants and intertidal life. The light is softer than the harsh glare of mid-summer, few if any other paddlers are around, and the often mild temperatures contribute to a pleasant outdoor experience.

After the first big rains of late September and up to mid-November, one can paddle the estuaries of the Zeballos and Kaouk Rivers and witness the still-spectacular salmon runs and black bears feeding along the river bank. The chum salmon run is of particular importance to local Nuu-cha-nulth tribes. As explained by Victoria Wells of Ehattesaht Tribe: “It often meant the survival or starvation of our people during winter. Because this salmon has a lower fat content, it keeps better during the winter, either dried or smoked.” Today, when paddling along Zeballos and Espinoza Inlet during Dog salmon moon (Sept.) or Cutting fish moon (Oct.) a paddler is still greeted by the scent of salmon being smoked in cedar smokehouses near the shore.

Mid-fall sees the arrival of over wintering water fowl such as trumpeter swans, diving birds, and various ducks and geese which join the resident blue herons, kingfishers and eagles. Fall also brings chanterelle and pine mushroom picking—you can stretch your legs and your menu options at the same time! The slanting late season rays of sunshine bring out the colors of lichens and mosses on the rocks and the bright red hips of the Nootka Rose. This native rose is in fragrant bloom later in spring where it follows fawn lilies clothing the dark volcanic rocks in bright shades of pink.

During the fall and winter months, the water becomes much clearer than in the summer and you can look at the colorful sea stars, sea urchins and anemones growing on the rocks below. In the Nuchatlitaz area, rafts of sea otters move back to the shelter of reefs after staying offshore during the summer, and may treat you to a visit. Whales have been coming to these waters more often in recent years—humpbacks in the fall and early winter, and orcas sporadically throughout the year. Gray whales show up around April.

The brighter days of February and March bring some of the best wildlife viewing opportunities of the year, with blizzards of sea birds after the herring, huge groups of sea lions, and hundreds of bald eagles—some too full to fly. Nuchatlitz and at the heads of Fair Harbour, Little Espinoza and Port Langford are the most accessible and lively spots to watch local feeding frenzies.

During March (Spawning moon) the big event of the new year for First Nations takes place, bringing feasts of herring roe, the first fresh food after a long winter. Nuchatlitz and Hesquiat were both well known for the eel grass beds where herring spawned on the blades. Today the roe is collected on hemlock branches—this flavor is preferred by many to that of the commercially important roe-on-kelp.

If you decide to paddle here in the off-season, bring good rain gear and warm clothes including weatherproof headgear, and make sure you have a VHF radio.

© Cristina Lepore, BSc is co-owner of Zeballos Expeditions: www.zeballoskayaks.com.