Know Your Neighbours: Tropical Wildlife Watching

October-November 2004

This is an article from WaveLength Magazine, available in print in North America and globally on the web.
To download a pdf copy of the magazine click here: > DOWNLOAD

by Bryan Nichols

Whether you head south regularly or the brochures and drizzle have finally convinced you to go this year, you might be wondering about seeing tropical wildlife from a kayak. Last issue we looked at ways to watch the Northwest’s amazing wildlife while paddling—are things any different down south?

Well, yes and no. But mostly yes. If you’re the pessimistic type, you might think tropical wildlife is all about lurking crocodiles, hungry sharks and man o’war jellies. If you’re the optimistic sort, you might count on seeing nothing but pink flamingos and friendly manatees from your kayak. And if you’re just plain drizzle-weary, maybe you haven’t even considered wildlife watching—warm water, sunshine and local rum might be all you’re hoping for.

Well cheer up, all of you—the tropics are vast and there’s something for everyone. If all you want is sunshine, choose the season between cold fronts and hurricanes and head for one of the many resorts which offer sit-on-top kayaks. If you want tropical birds or friendly mammals, some research and luck will give you a good chance. And even though the vast majority of crocs and sharks are very well behaved towards kayakers, there are a few spots left where bold kayakers still have to be wary of scales and pointy teeth.

SO WHAT’S DIFFERENT?

Remember last issue’s checklist? (If not, it’s online at www.WaveLengthMagazine. com.) You seasoned Northwest wildlife watchers can pretty much forget about four items on that list. For instance, shore mammals. Unless you get up into rivers, you are unlikely to see much in the way of tropical shore mammals other than the occasional raccoon, nutria or coati. Lions, tigers, bears and moose are generally not so fond of tropical coasts or small islands. Speaking of mammals, don’t bother looking for seals and sea lions—they are few and far between in warm water. The last Caribbean monk seal was seen in 1952 (Hawaii and the Mediterranean each have a surviving monk seal species, but both are endangered). Of course, maybe the only hauled out mammals you’re interested in seeing will be the ones wearing thongs!

It’s not just the mammals that are different though. Recall all that glorious kelp we have up here—well, forest-sized kelp is a cold water phenomena. Seaweeds in the tropics tend to be much more modest in size—the closest thing to a kelp bed would be a big mat of Sargasso weed, the only large seaweed that drifts the open sea.

Finally, there are those intertidal cliffs we know and love. Although volcanic islands have cliffs, much tropical paddling occurs around low-lying limestone islands, often fringed by seagrass beds, mangroves—or condominiums. Combine that with relentless sunshine and relatively miniscule tides (say, 30 cm instead of four meters), and you have an intertidal zone that is so small and harsh you often won’t see more than a few periwinkles.

BUT THE GOOD NEWS IS…

Now that you know what NOT to expect (which is a good reminder of why we love paddling in the Pacific Northwest), what can you look forward to in the way of tropical wildlife?

First, coral reefs deserve special mention. They are truly amazing, and judging from brochures and television shows you’d think they were everywhere. Unfortunately healthy coral reefs are increasingly difficult to find. In some spots they are many kilometers offshore—in others, formerly healthy reefs have been degraded by destructive fishing, pollution or even bleaching that may be due to climate change. Throughout the world they’re disappearing, which makes paddling one an increasingly rare privilege your children may never experience. As an ecotourist, do your part to support communities and companies that protect their reefs (www.reefrelief.org).

If you do find some good coral, the next thing you’ll probably notice is the clarity of the warer. Corals thrive in clear water because they can make their own food from sunlight—we northerners are used to an ocean that is much richer in nutrients and therefore murkier. Clear, nutrient-poor water doesn’t always mean beautiful corals though—many areas have nothing but sand. Closer to shore, in estuaries and mangrove swamps, you’ll find lots of nutrients. Here the water will be shallow and murky, and often rich in wildlife. As tourist maps are unlikely to tell you which environments are nearby, you’ll have to ask the locals.

If you do plan to get away from it all this winter, peruse this checklist for some wildlife watching ideas. My other winter get - away checklists can all be found online— together, they should give you something to do in between tequila shots, dive trips and burning your naughty bits on the beach.

© Biologist Bryan Nichols is currently at the Bamfield Marine Station on Vancouver Island, watching bears on shore and listening for rockfish.

TROPICAL WILDLIFE WATCHING FROM YOUR KAYAK

FLOATING JELLIES

Kayaks are the best way to see jellies anywhere in the world, and the tropics are no different. You’ll be amazed at how pretty a Portugese man of war can be up close—from your kayak. Just remember, tropical jellies are much more likely to give you a nasty sting, and your skin is much more likely to be exposed and vulnerable.

UNDER YOUR BUTT

Though warm water invertebrates (1999 Oct) aren’t as big or abundant as they are in the Pacific Northwest, there are at least two redeeming factors. One is the water itself—in many areas it’s so clear you can see critters many meters below, and you have to love that. Also, although they might be tiny as individuals, reef-building corals (2001 Oct) manage to build boulders, patches, islands and even barrier reefs you can see from space! Remember though, hands off—corals are fragile and like other tropical critters, they are more likely to have poisonous defenses, especially the Pacific varieties.

HEADING UPRIVER—ESTUARIES

The Northwest is an active coast— mountains dip right into the ocean. But throughout much of the tropics you will be paddling passive coasts, where eons of erosion have worn things down to sea level. On passive coasts the estuaries tend to be larger and a sea kayaker can paddle for kilometers upriver. Ask around locally and you might find some of the best wildlife watching along the banks of rivers that meander slowly to the sea.

FOR THE BIRDS

Since many of our own bird species migrate south, adding to the numerous year-round residents, the tropics have a lot of birds (2003 Oct). Shoreline birds are a delight and all that shallow water makes for a ton of waders, including brochure favorites like ibises and flamingos. Up in the air you’ll see pelicans, frigate birds and boobies—you’d be amazed at how many people go south for the quality birdwatching.

TROPICAL FISH

One activity where the tropics really kicks Northwest butt is fishwatching from your kayak (2000 Oct). If you can manage to paddle a decent coral reef, the combination of clear water and big, colorful fish is impossible to beat. Parrot, damsel and angel fish are all so appealing they’ll probably lure you out of your kayak for some snorkeling.

SHARKS & RAYS

These cartilaginous fish might not lure you into the water, but you’ll find them fascinating from a kayak. You’re more likely to see them in shallow bays where you wouldn’t be swimming anyway—big rays and (usually) small sharks venture into very shallow water and a kayak is a great way to see them.

KAYAK DIVE

Most divers don’t need to be convinced coral reefs are remarkable places to visit, but few have tried kayak diving, which is actually pretty cool in the warm water. In an industry which is sadly catering ever more to the wealthy ‘pampered’ diver, kayak diving is a way to regain your independence and sense of serene adventure. It’s not for everybody or every spot, but if you’ve got nearshore reefs and a yen to mix some paddling and scuba diving, kayak diving is a fascinating combination of oceanic activities.

KAYAK SNORKEL

Of course, you don’t have to be scuba-certified to hear those colorful fishes calling you down. Almost any paddler on a coral reef will feel an irresistible urge to don mask, snorkel and fins and hop in. Tow your kayak behind you and float amidst a world very different from our own, where the wildlife is brightly colored and out in the open. It’s easier than you think to hop in and out of most kayaks, especially sit-on-tops which are appearing all over the tropics.

DOLPHINS & MANATEES

OK, all that warm shallow water isn’t filled with seals, sea lions, otters or whales, like in the Northwest. But the tropics often have shallow water marine mammals—dolphins and manatees (or dugongs in the Pacific). Paddling with dolphins is a delight, especially if the water is clear. Paddling with manatees typically happens in more murky water, but you might get lucky near a reef or in a spring-fed estuary. Both critters can be curious enough to approach you, and they’ll appreciate the fact you don’t make a lot of noise and won’t run them down at high speed.

WARM WATER & COLD BLOOD

This final item of tropical wildlife watching has no comparison up north, since reptiles cannot live long in chilly seawater. Close to tropical shores, especially on night paddles near swamps, you might come across the glowing eyes of a crocodile. There are a number of species throughout the world, a couple of which get alarmingly big, but encounters are very rare. Most are endangered. And fortunately Caribbean crocs are very mild mannered. You’re much more likely to spot the other reptiles, whopping big sea turtles. Kayakers see them as they come up for a breath or laze about near the surface—sometimes they’ll be spooked but other times they’ll just eye you cautiously before sinking slowly into the clear water.