Know Your Neighbours: Tropical BirdWatching

October-November 2003

This is an article from WaveLength Magazine, available in print in North America and globally on the web.
To download a pdf copy of the magazine click here: > DOWNLOAD

by Bryan Nichols

Winter approaches, so it’s time to think of snowy owls and arctic curlews. Wait a minute—the heck with owls and curlews. Pack your bags—we’re heading south for some tropical birdwatching. Though many coastal species of birds (and people) wisely migrate south for Caribbean winters, we’ll concentrate on birds which are reluctant to head north at all. To pursue this checklist you’ll have to abandon those southeast winds filled with snow and drizzle and head southeast to warmer waters.

As you peel off your parka and rub in some sunscreen, you’ll likely notice there are ecological differences between paddling here and there. Pacific Northwest shorelines are typically steep and rocky, but down south there’s a lot of shallow water, much of it sitting on top of mud. Mud and mangroves, mud and sea grass, just plain mud, often only a meter or less below your hull. Of course, it’s usually not plain mud at all—it’s full of critters. Wading birds have evolved to take advantage of all that food, and the bills they use to poke around give them a ‘tropical’ look—plenty of birds with odd bills are on this month’s list.

Many of the tropical birds you’ll encounter in the southern US are ‘exotics’, not native to the area. Florida in particular is rife with exotic birds run wild—parrots, or more likely parakeets, fly hither and thither, squawking obnoxiously. The only species native to North America (the Carolina parakeet) was wiped out by 1920.

Flamingos themselves are suspect— many believe that natural flocks stopped visiting south Florida (from the Bahamas) around 1900, and the ones you might see are descendants of escapees from zoos and theme parks.

Escapees or not, what’s with that pink? Why aren’t there any giant pink birds in the Northwest? Down south, roseate spoonbills and the more famous flamingos are decidedly pink—it’s not a Floridian cliché, and it’s not Disney feeding them food coloring. Flamingos get their color from the same source wild salmon do—shrimpy looking little copepods. You might recall that shrimp are naturally pinkish. Eat a lot of the right copepods and apparently it can pinkify your flesh or feathers—too bad it doesn’t happen to our herons or eagles.

For this list I’ve chosen some shorebirds (see my Feb 2003 column), some seabirds (see Aug 2003) and thrown in a couple of birds more inclined to freshwater, since lazy river and estuary paddling is popular in many spots down south. Kayaks are a great way to see these birds. Many of those extensive, muddy shallows are inaccessible by normal boats. When you spot a flock of ibises poking around in the mud you can let the breeze drift you along—if you don’t move, your shape is often not alarming. Of course, not all these birds are shy. Brown pelicans, in particular, are easily habituated by feeding, and hang out near docks, boats and other potential sources of handouts. Some even get belligerent if they’re not fed. Ss always with wildlife, resist the temptation.

Mangroves (see Oct 2002) are a great place to look for birds while paddling. The shallows around them provide good wading and plenty of food, while the branches provide a place to roost that’s mostly predator free, particularly on small islands. Many are designated wildlife refuges and may be alive with squawking, wheeling birds. Wandering around on these reserves is often illegal as well as unpleasant, but paddling around them is fascinating and legal.

By the way, if you’re the type that gets homesick easily, you’ll be happy to know that all the birds you’ll see under tropical skies aren’t strange or pink. On, over and under the water will be some familiar beaks. Diving below the surface will be good old double crested cormorants. These dark, heavy birds can be found from the Aleutians right through to the Antilles—and down the Baja as well. North American paddlers see them just about everywhere. Above the waves are ospreys, adept at picking off Caribbean fish—and without bald eagles to harass them they are more common here. Finally, wading in the shallows will be blue herons—their slow stalking, spindly legs and horrendous squawks familiar to us all.

Tuck this Wavelength into your suitcase and head south—the birds and I look forward to seeing you.

© Biologist Bryan Nichols now has two kayaks but no furniture in Florida—his priorities are clearly for the birds. Drop him a line at brynichols@wildmail.com.

FURTHER READING

Common Coastal Birds of Florida & the Caribbean

David Nellis

ISBN 1-56164-196-0 Paperback, $21.95

Pineapple Press

This is a great reference on warm water birds you are likely to see on a trip south, but it isn’t a field guide. It’s packed with info on 72 birds selected because they are common and/or of special interest. There are plenty of color photos in the front, and then all sorts of tidbits in the back that make the lives of these birds easier to understand and appreciate. A perfect vacation read after your wild night out, between the hangover and the kayak trip.

Checklist 33 - Some Watery Caribbean Birds

BOOBIES Sula spp

Named for their clumsy behavior (not their shape), boobies are somewhat awkward looking seabirds that are surprisingly good at catching small fish. The various species range throughout the tropics, and are best known for their colorful feet, which often appear in bright reds or blues. Accessible breeding colonies that were popular with hungry sailors are now ecotourism favorites.


MAGNIFICENT FRIGATEBIRD Fregata magnificens

If I could be a bird for a day, this would be the one. Flight-wise, they have the best of both worlds—they’re big, with 2.4m wingspans and lightweight bodies that give them remarkable soaring ability, but their forked tail and rakish design also gives them wicked maneuverability—watch them chase other birds and you’ll see. They feed by dipping, not diving, and during breeding season, males get that absurd looking red throat tomato.


GREATER FLAMINGO Phoenicopterus ruber

You might not even believe this is a real bird, so clichéd have they become. Tacky lawn ornaments aside, wild flamingos are tall, skinny shorebirds that have adapted to eat small things in coastal muck. Webbed feet, long legs and long necks allow them to forage in places like salty lakes and estuaries, where they slurp and strain brine shrimp, insect larvae and other tasty little morsels.


PELICANS (white, brown) Pelecanus spp.

Oddly enough, these are a familiar sight in Canada’s ‘other’ coastal province—Manitoba. White pelicans migrate right up the middle of the continent, while brown pelicans become common along either coast as you head south. Both are huge birds. Brown pelicans are famous for their plunge dives, which make for big splashes and great entertainment on the water.


WHITE IBIS Eudocimus ruber

I have a soft spot for these medium sized shorebirds—I believe it’s because of the graceful, feminine curve of their bill. Groups of them feed by wading around and poking those long beaks into the mud, feeling for and then snapping up a wide variety of unlucky critters. How romantic is that?


ROSEATE SPOONBILL Ajaia ajaja

Pink like flamingos but not as big, these birds are remarkably well named, as their most notable feature is a bizarre beak which they use to scoop up fish and other critters from murky water. Pretty from a distance, up close they are pretty ugly, as their pink feathers contrast with their bald, greenish head.


AMERICAN ANHINGA Anhinga anhinga

Anhinga anhinga Hard to forget the genus, species or common name of this cormorant lookalike, which means snake or devil bird in the Tupi language from Brazil. Anhingas are decidedly snaky looking, agile swimmers that spear fish with their sharp beaks. They prefer clear, fresh water but can be found in many shallow water habitats in the south.


GREAT EGRET Casmeroidus albus

Is that a blue heron turned white? Actually, it might be (especially in the Keys)—but it’s probably a great egret, a meter tall wader common worldwide in just the sorts of spots we like to kayak. The feather brained fashion lust of our ancestors nearly exterminated the egrets, but they’ve recovered. Their next worry is our generation paving the coastal wetland habitat they need.


JABIRU STORK Jabiru mycteria

Though you might consider them ugly, these massive waders are impressive enough— 1.4m of solid stork. Notable for their huge nests, they are opportunistic feeders and you get the impression even young crocodiles wouldn’t be safe in the water next to one. Unfortunately they are rare. Although they like shallow freshwater habitats, you’ll be lucky to see one anywhere but in flyers and literature on conserving wetlands in Central America.


NORTHERN JACANA Jacana spinosa

This little bird and its relatives are common in warm, freshwater habitats. It seems like another unremarkable shorebird until you notice it isn’t really on shore at all—it’s walking on water. Called a ‘Jesus Christ bird’ or ‘lily-trotter’ by locals. The latter is a bit more accurate—jacanas use their extra long toes to stroll about on top of floating vegetation, picking off bugs.

 

© 2003. Text and graphics by Bryan Nichols. No reproduction without permission.