Paradise Found

October-November 2003

This is an article from WaveLength Magazine, available in print in North America and globally on the web. To download a pdf copy of the magazine click here: > DOWNLOAD

by Melesa Hamer

PUERTECITOS TO BAHIA SAN LUIS GONZAGA

Puertecitos is the end of the good road. The long, sandy beaches along this stretch are beautiful, but developed. There aren’t many services in Puertecitos—no gas, phone or grocery—so do all your last minute chores in San Felipe. There are tidal hot springs, and for $5 a night you can camp near them on the picturesque beach under a shady palapa.

From there, cruise Las Islas Encantada (The Enchanted Islands) to see a variety of wildlife, particularly Isla Lobos, named for the sea lions. Isla San Luis is the only island you can camp on, the rest are steep and rocky.

If Puertecitos is the end of the good road, San Luis Gonzaga is the end of the bad road. Many people stay at Punta Willard because road access is easier, but paddlers should head over to Alfonsinas at the south end of the bay. Alfonsinas has hot showers, a little restaurant, and you can get fresh water down the road at Rancho Grande for a small fee. The people at Alfonsinas will usually give you a ride.

From Puertecitos to San Luis Gonzaga allow five to six days.

SAN LUIS GONZAGA TO SAN FRANCISQUITO

If I only had a week or two in Mexico, I’d spend all my time on this stretch. The water starts to turn the aquamarine shades for which Baja is known and there are no crowds like in Cabo San Lucas or La Paz. Bus service to Bahia de Los Angeles now exists, making shuttles easier. Go by Punta Remedios and visit the many small lagoons in the bay. Snorkeling is spectacular along the rock reefs, home to rays, starfish and eels. There is great camping near Isla Alcatraz. A strong current flows between the peninsula and Isla Angel de la Guardia, so beware, particularly around points. Bahia de Los Angeles (or L.A. Bay, as it is known to us gringos) is a wonderland of kayaking, snorkeling and beachcombing. With its cluster of small islands, there are endless opportunities for exploration. The cove in front of Punta Don Juan is beautiful and offers good camping. There are several grocery stores in L.A. Bay but only one long distance phone, with $1 per minute charges. Supplies are limited for finicky tastes.

Ruben’s is the place to camp in L.A. Bay. You can rent kayaks and get a hot shower, or rest in the shade of a palapa overlooking the ocean. Ruben has the nicest campground around and he will give you a ride to get water. Call ahead to 011-52- 200-124-9101 or visit www.camp daggetts.com for more information. Mujares Coves is peaceful, protected and private. It is a great place to camp before heading into San Francisquito for supplies. To get from San Luis Gonzaga to San Francisquito allow ten to fourteen days.

If you go:

Tourist Card

You must have a tourist card to travel in Mexico. The airline provides it if you fly, or if you are driving, stop at the Immigration office at the border. You will need either your passport or an original copy of your birth certificate. Tourist cards are $20 and good for up to 180 days.

Maps

Fish‘n Map Co. has a pretty good map of northern Baja. Ed Gillet makes an excellent paddle map of the Bahia de Los Angeles area, detailing the best campsites and useful information for paddlers (if you can find one since his San Diego-based kayaking store closed).