Innchanted at Hot Springs Cove

June-July 2003

This is an article from WaveLength Magazine, available in print in North America and globally on the web.
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by Jacqueline Windh

The Innchanter

Cold rain stabs like needles on my hands. My bow rises and falls on rough grey seas as I round Sharp Point. The tent is a crumpled and sodden mass of sand-encrusted nylon jammed into my stern hatch. But the Innchanter appears before me, and I no longer care about my tent.

I still enjoy those rugged wilderness trips, at the mercy of whatever the west-coast weather gods wish to throw at you. But with age also comes wisdom, or possibly just wimpiness. I am not sure which of these qualities is leading me to the Innchanter today, but I look forward to hanging up my wet gear by the crackling fire, and to the cup of hot chocolate that Shaun will soon be thrusting into my hand.

The Innchanter has been anchored at Hot Springs Cove in northern Clayoquot Sound, for eight years. It started its life as the Burnaco, an 86' wooden freighter built in 1927. It served the west coast until recently, when Shaun bought it, re christened it, and fit it out as a bed and breakfast. It sleeps up to twelve people, with five double berths and one singles room. The grand salon, finished in wood with accents in a nautical shade of blue, has a large dining room table as well as comfy couch's and chairs nestled around the fireplace. Perfect for working the transition from kayak-campingin- the-rain mode to pamper-me-while-I lounge mode!

A touch of home in the middle of Clayoquot Sound. Jacqueline Windh photo.

HOT SPRINGS COVE

Hot Springs Cove is one of Clayoquot Sound's most famous destinations. Natural hot water, geothermally heated deep in the earth's crust, emerges in a fracture near the ocean's edge and cascades down a steaming waterfall and through a chain of natural pools into the ocean. Tidal levels change as much as four metres every six hours, so the pools are also constantly changing. At low tide there are about half a dozen pools,glassy and steaming, the upper ones too hot for some. With the rising tide, things become more active. Surging swell starts to move the glassy water, until finally a wave breaks over the rocky lip and into the upper pools. Cold ocean water, heavier than the thermal waters both because of its temperature and its load of dissolved salts, surges in, lifting the hot water up around our chests and necks, then sucks out again. By high tide even the uppermost pool is churning like a washing machine alternating between hot and cold cycles.

From March through October, whale watching companies in Tofino offer day tours to the springs, and a water taxi as well as float planes run from Tofino to the springs year-round, weather permitting. On busy summer days, over two hundred day-trippers jostle for space in the hot pools, the bulk of them sitting on the rocks above, waiting for an opening to appear. Those who plan ahead know better - stay for a night, or three. There is much in the area to keep you amused by day while the springs bustle with tourists, and in the evening and morning you have it all to yourself.

Across the cove, only a five minute paddle away, lies Hot Springs Village, inhabited by the Hesquiaht people. Consisting of a handful of brightly coloured houses, a tiny primary school and a medical clinic, less than a hundred people live here. Hesquiaht carver Mark Mickey lives in the village, and his colourful masks and a giant eagle bowl adorn the Innchanter's grand salon.

Warmed up and in dry clothes, I set off for the village, and pass a nice afternoon with Mark. He is working on a mask, and shows me photos of other carvings he has sold - masks of bumblebees and salmon transformations, and bowls carved as wind women and frogs.

Carver Mark Mickey	One of Mark's masks.

By 6 pm the last of the tour boats leave the cove. Back at the boat, we are sitting down to our evening meal, and as usual Shaun has outdone himself (as a frequent visitor, I know!). Tonight's feast is chicken shish-kabobs, rice pilaf, asparagus with a glaze of balsamic vinegar and Russian mustard, and a divine green salad with pears, candied pecans and blue cheese. After dinner, reflections of the setting sun dance on the water around us, and the lights of the village across the cove start to flicker. The springs are beckoning us, all ours from golden evening light through the rest of the moonlit night.

We gather the few supplies we need, towels, water bottles, and torches for the return trip, and set off along the boardwalk. At this hour, bathing suits are optional. The boardwalk trail itself is a treat - soft moss encrusted planks engraved with the names of the boats that have visited here over the years. Massive trunks of ancient old growth cedars rise around us, and branches draped with old-man's beard arch above us. Arriving at the top of the waterfall, Shaun is surefooted over the rocks, and is the first one out of his clothes and into the pool. I am close behind him. Leaning back on smooth rocks, hot water rises over my neck and up to my ears. I close my eyes, lulled to a place of total calm by the soothing waters and the gurgling of the surf just behind the rock lip.

Map Courtesy of People for Puget Sound.

THE INNCHANTER

The Innchanter, while not catering exclusively to kayakers, is the ideal base for kayakers who plan to stay at Hot Springs. Paddling from Tofino to Hot Springs, whether by the 'inner' route or the 'outer' route, is only for skilled paddlers - those who are experienced in paddling open ocean routes with ocean swell and currents; in dealing with sudden and changeable strong winds; and (as always) in doing both self- and assisted-rescues in the wind and swell conditions in which they may find themselves paddling.

The 'inner' route is the more protected, but it still requires one exposed open ocean crossing - landing through moderate surf may be required. This route then goes around the north side of Flores Island, where waters are sheltered from ocean swell, but where strong currents and high winds are not only possible, but the norm. This entire route is about 50 km in length, and the northern two thirds of it are steep sided fjords with few possible landing sites. Route planning must account for group strength and tides, allowing sufficient time to paddle longer distances in case a favoured campsite is already occupied. This route still requires rounding Sharp Point, where the combination of current, wind and ocean swell can lead to extremely rough conditions, to get into Hot Springs Cove.

The 'outer' route, along the outer coast of Flores Island, is about 40 km in length. This route is only for paddlers who have extensive experience in the most exposed outer coast conditions, and who have the judgement to know that in some conditions this route is not do-able by anyone, no matter their experience. Some days even the power boats do not go here. Paddlers on this route must add several contingency days to their route planning, because swell can come up quickly even during stable weather. In a matter of hours, a beach that was landable may turn into a raging and foamy trap.

The good news, however, is that in spite of the unprotected ocean conditions between Tofino and Hot Springs Cove, this sheltered paradise is accessible to kayakers with any experience level. With a little bit of pre-trip planning and a few phone calls, paddlers as well as their kayaks can be transported by power boat or by float plane from Tofino straight to the Innchanter. Shaun has a floating platform alongside the boat to make for easy loading and launching of kayaks. The Innchanter is anchored near the government dock, from which a twenty minute boardwalk trail takes you through the rainforest to the Springs. There is much mellow exploring to do in the sheltered waters of Hot Springs Cove. Confident paddlers can, weather-permitting, paddle to the entrance of the cove and out into the open ocean, and over to Flores Island.

Lulled to a place of total calm by the soothing waters and the gurgling of the surf just behind the rock lip.

MORNING

It is morning. Stuffed again, this time by Shaun's original pumpkin pancakes topped with French vanilla yogurt, fresh fruit, and real maple syrup (of course). I am pleased with the wisdom I seem to have accumulated after years of kayak expeditions. I do not need to prove myself any more, and I certainly do not need to huddle in the vestibule of my tent in a downpour, trying to cook a sand-free meal without igniting my fly. Been there, done that! I return to the springs, this time alone, for a quick soak before the rush of the whale-watchers. The rainforest is still. Only the trill of a solitary winter wren breaks the silence. The tide is low, and the chain of rock pools leads down to mussel-encrusted boulders. I follow the stream of hot water down, and find a warm pool among the boulders. I lay my head back and an eagle soars over me.

Innchanter: 250-670-1149, www.innchanter.com.

Matlahaw Water Taxi transport for people and kayaks: 250-670-1110

Ocean Outfitters: 250-725-2866, www.oceanoutfitters.bc.ca

The Whale Centre: 250-725-2132, www.tofinowhalecentre.com

Float plane transport for people and kayaks: Atleo Air 250-725-2205 Tofino Air 250-725-4454.