Rapid Descents: Winter Whitewater

October-November 2002

This is an article from WaveLength Magazine, available in print in North America and globally on the web.
To download a pdf copy of the magazine click here: > DOWNLOAD

by Steve Crow

Let winter rains come

When Jim Hnatiak and I set out in the spring of 2000 to compile the information for a guide book for select whitewater runs in southwestern BC, we thought we would begin on Vancouver Island. The Island is as 'southwestern' as you can get in BC, so it seemed a natural starting place. And we had never been there before, other than kayaking the waves at Long Beach a couple of times.

We picked up a copy of Betty Pratt- Johnson's Whitewater Trips On Vancouver Island and read with dismay that the Island's season would just be ending when we would be arriving.

Vancouver Island's precipitation falls in the winter, and because of the relatively warm climate, most of that is rain. And due to a lack of large lakes, there is little in the way of reservoirs to feed the rivers in the dry months.

No matter, we thought, there was still snow in the mountains. We felt sure there would still be enough water in the rivers to make the trip worthwhile if we moved quickly.

We were wrong, of course. Except for our time at Long Beach, which never fails to entertain, the trip was a waste of time and an inglorious start to our project. But we did learn something valuable, a lesson Pratt- Johnson tried to impart to us in her book.

For whitewater kayakers, Vancouver Island is set apart from the rest of the province. While the rest of BC is clicking into ski bindings and strapping on snowboards, Islanders are pulling on drysuits and slipping into the rapids. In other words, Vancouver Island is the perfect winter whitewater getaway for those unable or unwilling to bankroll a trip to the tropics.

The wild west coast, open to the vast undulations of the Pacific Ocean, kicks up surf from Cape Scott at the northern tip, down to Jordan River across from Washington's Olympic Peninsula.

But mountainous Vancouver Island also provides numerous rivers for kayakers, from remote Marble River near Port Hardy in the north, to the Koksilah River near the provincial capital, Victoria, in the south.

The rivers vary in their attractions, length, volume, and class of difficulty. What they have in common, however, is their availability in winter. River paddling on the Island begins with the autumn rains and ends when the last of the spring runoff has emptied into the sea. And even though surf kayaking can go year-round, it too is best during winter when frequent storms heave the sea onto the shore.

My purpose in this issue, then, is to simply introduce you to some of the whitewater available on Vancouver Island during the months when most others would rather be drinking hot cocoa beside a toasty fire, or in the tropics. Pratt-Johnson's book has the most comprehensive information available about Island paddling, but I warn you that it's dated. The book was written in 1984 and while the natural landscape has altered very little, the human landscape has changed tremendously. Some roads no longer lead where they once did, some access points are no longer public, and some formerly free camping spots have been lost down the whirlpool of economic development. For this reason, I'll keep my descriptions general.

For up-to-date information on rivers, contact local paddling stores, request current information on the Whitewater Kayaking Association of BC's web-based message board (www.whitewater.org), or for the latest on North Island rivers visit Jeffrey Holden's Home page (http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/jholden). You can also visit www.coastalbc.com for photos and stories about Island whitewater, and www.vancouverisland.com/Recreation/whitewaterkayak for short write-ups about some rivers not included in the Pratt-Johnson book or here.

1. Koksilah River, near Shawnigan Lake, has two runs that are available only after a good downpour. The upper run is a short Class II with a couple of Class III drops that are easy to portage. The lower run through a canyon is about 15 km long and offers more of a challenge. Class III and IV water is interrupted by two difficult drops with awkward portages, and one easy, mandatory portage.

2. Cowichan River is possible to paddle all year, although it can be extremely low in the summer. Located west of Duncan, this Class III- run is within a provincial park, which gives it a beautiful wilderness setting. A lovely, easy river at low levels, it can provide a lively challenge at high levels. At only 4 km long, it is not strenuous and the whole run can be scouted from trails along the shore, or from the water.

3. Nanaimo River, just south of its namesake town, is a playful Class III- (to IV-) river with ledges scattered along its length. Some ledges can be dangerous at high water because they are so straight. The most difficult drop is near the end of the run and is indicated by a 3 metre tall house rock in the middle of the channel.

4. Campbell River, which runs through its namesake town, is a straightforward, short, Class II that runs all year. If you swim, however, you may be in for awhile because it is a swift flowing river. The most challenging rapids are right below the put-in at the power plant. The entire run can be scouted from beautiful trails on either shore.

5. Nimpkish River (and Davie River) has three different runs, ranging from Class II to Class III with Class IV drops. Near the town of Woss, the Nimpkish can be combined with a ski trip to Mt. Cain for the ultimate winter holiday.

6. Gold River, beside its namesake town, has three runs that can be combined for one long run. The upper run is technical and challenging, with a Class IV rating at high water. It cuts through a gorgeous pooldrop canyon. Low water eliminates choices in some chutes. The middle run is much easier, but intermediates should use caution at high water. The lower run is easier still, however there is one Class IV-section about 350 m long.

While the rivers on Vancouver Island - of which this is only a very partial list - are spectacular and distinct from those on the mainland, my favorite places to paddle on Vancouver Island are the ocean beaches. There is nowhere in BC that offers such easy access to such novelty. Continuous, regular waves! No boulders hidden under the water! No sweepers! No whirlpools! There is no better place to practice surfing and rolling. Even if you come out of your boat, the ocean just pushes you back to shore where you can get back in and try again. And even if the waves out at the break are too big and intimidating for you, you can play all day in the foam piles.

Long Beach, the granddaddy of BC surfing, offers miles of beach for all to play on. The principal areas are Long Beach itself, Wickaninnish Beach, and Cox Bay (Chesterman Beach). During storms, the waves here can be absolutely massive. But even when there are no storms, there is (almost) consistent action to keep water people happy. Please keep in mind, though, that kayak surfers with our paddles have a decided advantage in catching waves over surfers. We can catch most anything we want, while they have to wait for the perfect wave. Give them the odd break and drop off the occasional wave so they can play too.

Jordan River, a community west of Victoria, is an ideal surf spot when the waves are up. The flow of the river takes you past the break and sets you up for the next ride, without the struggle of breaking through the surf to get out. The area, however, is quite small so competition for space can be quite stiff with the growing legions of surfers.

The most difficult part of winter paddling, I find, is the anticipation of cold. Once I get past that and into my boat, however, cold is pushed to the back of my mind by all the fun I'm having. Besides, continuous paddling keeps my core temperature high so that I am unaware of the air temperature. And water temperature isn't really an issue because let's face it, the water in BC is usually cold. To be a happy winter Island paddler, one only needs a water-tight drysuit, pogies or gloves (which I don't prefer because I lose a sense of where exactly the paddle is in my hands), a skullcap, a bomber roll and a warm refuge in which to brew hot cocoa at the end of the day.

© Steve Crowe is the co-author of 'Whitewater In BC's Southwest: A Guide to Accessible Runs for Beginner to Advanced Kayakers'. Detailed information on Long Beach can be found in the book.