Floating on the Sea of Cortez

October-November 2002

This is an article from WaveLength Magazine, available in print in North America and globally on the web.
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by Barbara Spencer

Isla Coronados near Loreto. Michael Sheehan photo

One by one the kayaks slip into the water - water so clear and transparent that the boats appear to hover above the sandy bottom. While sea birds float overhead, pelicans dive headfirst into the ocean like kamikaze pilots. In the background, huge mountains necklace the desert area and its towering cardon cactus. Welcome to Baja California, Mexico, and the Sea of Cortez.

Not so long ago, accessibility to Baja was almost non-existent. From the US border to Cabo San Lucas, with the Pacific on one side and the Sea of Cortez on the other, only the hardy ventured down the 1000 miles of coastline. They fished, they whale-watched, they just hung out. But today, the Trans-Peninsular Highway is completely paved and the airports are busy with tourists.

Wild and undeveloped, the Sea of Cortez has spectacular scenery, rich marine life and warm weather. The many islands that dot its waters are protected by the Mexican government against any commercial development, to preserve the delicate ecosystems. There are two key towns on the Sea of Cortez: Loreto, the original capital of the state, and La Paz. Both have much to recommend them but since I live in La Paz, I'll focus on the paddling near there.

LA PAZ

La Paz is the city of peace. It is neither a raucous resort nor a chaotic city. Violent crime is virtually unknown and the Mexican people are delightful. Stroll along the Malecon, the romantic seaside walkway. Listen to live Latin music or mariachi bands playing at outdoor cafes, or curl up on an secluded beach at dusk enchanted by the spectacular blood-red sunsets for which La Paz is noted.

In the La Paz area there are nine islands, four which are a kayaker's dream with spectacular volcanic rock formations, fine camping beaches and rugged shorelines.

SAN JOSE, SAN FRANCISCO, PARDITO

The appeal of these islands is their remoteness, a few hours from La Paz. Isla San Jose is one of the most mountainous islands in the Sea of Cortez. The beaches offer glistening white sand and you'll paddle along extraordinarily chiseled red sandstone cliffs. It was here that I encountered a large pod of dolphins arching from the water in unison, a school of flying fish skimming the surface and a manta ray twirling in the air.

In the southern part of the island lies the largest mangrove estuary in Baja, a striking contrast to the arid desert. Below the shallow lagoon mouth, stingrays undulate their wings. This estuary is a home for many of Baja's birds: frigates, brown or blue-footed boobies, gulls, terns, pelicans, blue herons, egrets and ibis.

Isla Pardito is a unique fishing village perched high on one of the rock islands with an incredible view of the sea. Five generations of families have lived there. There is no camping but beer goes a long way in exchange for fish.

Isla San Francisco, just south of Isla Pardito, has a stunning white sand beach. At the far north end is a cave that, at times, is used by the navy at night to camp. If a navy boat sits in the cove, move on to the next cove to avoid any questions. The officers are polite but they may approach you with weapons and inquiries. They are just doing their job, looking for drugs or guns. By contrast, ruthless nosee- ums terrorize this beach in the warmer months, so wear the hardiest bug spray possible.

Isla Espiritu Santo near La Paz. Barbara Spencer photo

ISLA ESPIRITU SANTO

From startling fissured and striated cliffs on the east, to spectacular pristine beaches and protected lagoons on the west, Espiritu Santo is a ruggedly beautiful, semi-exotic island. No wonder this island is the most popular with kayak tours.

From Playa Tecolote, just north of La Paz, you can either rent a panga or paddle the 4.5 mile crossing. With at least twenty stunning beaches suitable for camping, you should be able to find an uninhabited site. Since the island is only thirty-five miles around, it is easily circumnavigated in a few days. To truly experience its secrets, you should stay a week.

Have you ever swum with sea lions? At the northern tip of the island is Los Islotes, two guano-frosted rock islets, one with a large sea lion colony. On the rocky ledges lie hundreds of California Brown sea lions and one wayward Elephant Seal who has taken up residence. A natural arch brimming with sea life is formed in the other islet, through which you can snorkel and dive.

The law prohibits landing on Los Islotes. It is also dangerous as the bulls patrol and fiercely protect their territory. A precautionary measure while swimming is to remain about 100 feet from the rocks and let the sea lion pups approach you. The pups, curious and eager, will splash into the water to greet you, swimming upside down, as they swerve and roll their flexible bodies.

Intriguing hikes are found in the volcanic arroyos where wild fig and ironwood trees grow. Trek the high ridges for a stunning panoramic view of towering red-hued volcanic escarpments piercing the azure waters below.

Beach combing, shell collecting, sea arches, deep hidden coves, fresh water wells (unsuitable for drinking), mangroves, and remnants from the pearling era make each day a new adventure.

When is the best kayaking? October to June. Fall trips in October and November offer warmer water temperatures (25 C). The magic of these islands is enhanced in March and April as surrounding waters come alive with the migrating whales. Grey, Blue, Fin, Pilot, Humpback and Sperm have all been observed. Pods of dolphins are seen all year long. At 45 C from July to October, the air temperature is suffocating. Even the lizards know enough to stay home during the daytime. It makes sense that this is the land of siesta. Bring sunscreen, sunhat and shades.

For the enthusiastic kayaker seeking peace, nature and even romance, Baja has it all. When you want a quick getaway from the dreary northern winter months, what better way to experience a hit of sun, sand and sombreros than aboard your kayak.

FOR BAJA KAYAK TOURS, RENTALS

• Baja Expeditions: www.bajaex.com

• Baja Outdoors Adventures: www.kayactivities.com

• Gabriola Cycle & Kayak: www.gck.ca

• Nahanni Wilderness Adventures: www.nahanniwild.com

• Pacific Rim Paddling Company: www.PacificRimPaddling.com

• Paddling South: www.tourbaja.com

• Sea Kayak Adventures Inc: www.seakayakadventures.com.

• Tofino Expeditions: www.tofino.com Baja Outdoors Adventures has an excellent 8X14 map of Isla Espiritu Santo which grades the beaches and pinpoints the best snorkelling.

HOW TO GET THERE

Fly direct to Loreto or La Paz with Aero California or Aero Mexico. An alternate route to La Paz is to fly to Cabo San Lucas with Aero Mexico, Alaska, America West or Mexicana and take a taxi to the bus depot in San Jose del Cabo ($17 Cdn) and then the bus to La Paz ($15 Cdn). Buses run all day long and take 2-1/2 hours to La Paz.

ACCOMMODATION

Hotels, B&Bs and Pensions from $18- $125 Cdn. Refer to guide books on Baja or www.bajatravel.com. In Loreto, try Villas de Loreto (meals, accommodation, pool, kayak rentals, etc.): www.villasdeloreto.com.

TOURIST CARD

You need a tourist card to enter Mexico. The airlines provide it. If you are driving, stop at the Mexican Immigration office at Tijuana border or in San Diego at the Mexican Consulate. Less hassle in San Diego. Bring your passport. ?

© Barbara Spencer is a Canadian living in La Paz. She is currently organizing a kayaking trip from Loreto to La Paz. For more information: exico_barbara@yahoo.ca

KEEPING BAJA BEAUTIFUL

For several years now Mexican Park officials have mandated the use of porta- potties for paddlers in the waters of the Sea of Cortez. Peter Marcus of Gabriola Cycle & Kayak says that despite initial resistance, this requirement has greatly benefited the area.

"No one at first likes the idea of having to carry a port-a-pottie, but in fact it's not that much of a burden and after a few trips it just becomes part of the routine", Peter says.

"We've been using a port-a-pottie made by GTS Systems (www.ecosafe.net). They make a great 20 liter size (good for groups) and a smaller, 8 liter version (good for single kayaks). They have a good seal and are easy to clean." In Vancouver they're available at Ecomarine.