On the Curve of Time

October-November 2002

This is an article from WaveLength Magazine, available in print in North America and globally on the web.
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by Ann and Peter Hulbert

All partnered up in double kayaks and ready to go. Photo: Peter Hulbert

The 'Queens' of the BC Ferry Corporation offer grandstand seating for travelers on their way to and from Vancouver Island, but the best way to see the blockbuster scenery of the Gulf Islands is from a smaller vessel or a kayak.

In our case it's on the Curve of Time, an 84' former North Sea trawler which campaigned for Greenpeace for a number of years as the Moby Dick, and now serves as a mothership operation under Due West Charters.

We start our weekend voyage from New Westminister on the mighty Fraser River. After a safety lecture by captain Jan Bevelander and engineer Mike McLean, we cast off and head down the river along the long jetty to Sandheads Lighthouse, which is a seasonal home for barking sea lions.

Crossing Georgia Strait gives ample time for passengers to stow their gear in the cabins or the saloon below deck which has accommodation just like the 'sleepers' on the Trans-Continental trains of yesteryear.

Doubles and singles give paddlers a variety of experience. Photo: Peter Hulbert

With everything shipshape, it's time to set out the deckchairs, check cameras and film, and train the binoculars on the wildlife as we avoid the fast moving ferries in narrow Active Pass, gateway to the Gulf Islands.

Then we turn south along the shores of Pender Island across Swanson Channel, and slowly inch past basking harbour seals into Princess Bay on Portland Island, where the anchor is dropped.

The loud rattle of the anchor chain splashing into the emerald green water marks the start of a weekend of kayaking, sketching, photography and wildlife viewing in the bays and beaches of this remarkable island group.

The focus after lunch is to launch kayaks and Mike carefully helps the novices slip into the kayaks from the Zodiac alongside.

Then Jan fires up the outboard on the Zodiac and takes three of us to shore to see Princess Margaret Provincial Park on Portland Island. The Park is named after Queen Elizabeth's sister, who was given the island by British Columbia in 1958 and then gifted it back to the the people of province.

After a hike across the park, we arrive at a glistening shell beach just opposite Brackman Island. The beach reveals many of the unique geological features that are visible the length of the Gulf Island Chain; sandstone cliffs that have been eroded by wind and water, providing extraordinary subjects for artists and photographers alike.

Next morning we awake from a good night's sleep to the aroma of bacon cooking. After a fine meal we weigh anchor and head southeast into Boundary Pass, looking for porpoises and orcas. We aren't disappointed, soon meeting up with groups of porpoises which play chicken, diving and weaving back and forth across our bow wave.

We cross into United States; waters and cruise along the south side of Spieden Island, where vast expanses of green are dotted with varieties of antelope and deer.

Jan is contacted on the radio by another eco-cruiser who has met up with a pod of orcas not far from us, and many eyes scan the horizon until they are soon spotted to starboard. The members of the pod are traveling in two groups about a hundred metres apart, and we feel awe and excitement as we watch these magnificent mammals move effortlessly along.

Bedwell Harbour on South Pender Island is our anchorage for the night. Kayaks are launched while some of us head for the beach to stretch out in the sun and others undertake a steep climb to a viewpoint overlooking the islands.

As Sunday dawns we head for our last stop at the Marine Park in Montague Harbour on Galiano Island. The saltwater marsh and brilliant white shell beaches are idyllic. Then it's back across Georgia Strait to Steveston, and back to our land-locked lives - until our next trip with the Curve of Time.

© Peter Hulbert was a staff photographer with the Vancouver Province newspaper for 19 years.

Ann Hulbert is a City Councillor. They live in Port Moody, BC. Due West Charters: 604-524-6031

Web: www.DueWestCharter.bc.ca.

Ed. note: the trip described is in the heart of the Orca Pass International Strewardship Area. See www.GeorgiaStrait.org and www.PugetSound.org for more on this important initiative.