Greenland Travels

December 2001 - January 2002

This is an article from WaveLength Magazine, available in print in North America and globally on the web.
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by Wendell Phillips

The author paddling a canvas Greenland kayak among iceburgs in Ilulissat. This fjord produces 20 million tons of ice, moving at a speed of 22 meters per day. Photo: Wendell Phillips

This past summer I had the opportunity to visit Greenland for a month as a guest of paddlers belonging to the Qaannat Kattuffiat National Kayak Association. The impetus of my journey was to compile research and empirical data to assist my modest efforts to replicate skin kayaks and hunting tools. In addition, I was hoping to train with local paddlers to increase my repertoire of ancient Greenland techniques in the skin kayak.

It took a combination of five flights from,British Columbia to reach Nuuk, the capital of Greenland. Upon arrival I was rapidly processed by sociable custom officials and free to go. Waiting at the arrival gate was one of my enthusiastic hosts, Hans Kleist Thommasen, who was eager to show me around town before nightfall. Before leaving Canada, I had asked Hans and my other host, Pavia Lumholt, what could I bring as a gift for them, assuming that perhaps they'd like some of our famous Canadian maple syrup. "Cherry Pepsi and Starbucks Coffee, please", they had replied.

Greenland, or Kalaallit Nunnaat as it's known in Greenlandic language, is part of the kingdom of Denmark but enjoys independence with a constitutional home-rule government created in 1979. The country contains only 55,000 residents-80% Greenland Inuit and the remainder mostly Danish. The relatively small professional labor force that is exported from Denmark usually stays for a few years and returns home. Hans, however, was born in Greenland and is exceptionally proud of that heritage, as are others who can claim that birthright.

Not that many years ago the Qajaq (kayak) and its ancient techniques almost vanished from the Greenland landscape. But now it's experiencing something of a renaissance, thanks largely to many elders who have kept the traditional skills alive. One such man was legendary kayaker Manasse Mathaeussen. Through his virtuosity with the kayak, he inspired not only young Greenlanders but also paddlers internationally through public demonstrations. Sadly his illustrious 56-year career in kayaking came to an end when he passed away in 1989 at age 74, but his influence helped restore this proud history and today he is considered a national treasure.

A Humpback whale near greenland's capital, Nuuk Photo: Wendell Phillips

During my stay in Nuuk I had the chance to take part in several kayak-training sessions near the clubhouse along the waterfront. This district features beautiful 200-year old colonial style buildings festooned with traditional bright colors and a homogenous design. Along the shore are a series of racks that embrace dozens of skin kayaks belonging to local club members. The 'skin' in this case is mostly canvas or nylon wrapped around a wooden frame.

I was surprised and pleased to see how many women, mostly Danish, were participating in introductory rolling sessions directed by Hans and Pavia. On another night some of the veteran Greenland Inuit paddlers came out to display ancient rolling techniques to the backdrop of a cheering crowd. When I closed my eyes I could have been at a Canadian hockey game.

I completed an assortment of traditional rolls but was not prepared for the bitterly cold Arctic water. Transient Icebergs floating by were a constant reminder that a lot of attention needed to be paid to this unforgiving environment. The tidal streams in this area are quite powerful and, combined with wind-generated waves, conditions can get rather bumpy.

A member of the Nuuk kayak club takes part in a rolling session in the capital's colonial harbour, practicing ancient Greenland techniques. Photo: Wendell Phillips

During my time in West Greenland I visited many communities by sea and air. Land travel is not possible as there are no roads linking any towns. From Kangerlussuaq, I flew above the Arctic Circle to visit communities of Disko Bay on the West coast. It was there I met Kampe Absalonsen, a Greenland Inuit who is a judge for the Greenland National Kayak Championships. Kampe made it possible for me to complete a dream of mine-to paddle a real sealskin kayak. After some minor repairs with sealskin patches and animal oil for waterproofing, the hunting boat was ready to launch the next day. Equipped with a Greenland paddle trimmed with traditional whalebone, I was soon slicing through sapphiretinted water amidst a backdrop of haunting icebergs. It was humbling to think that hundreds of Inuit generations relied on these kinds of hunting boats for survival and rarely had time to paddle just for pleasure.

I also had the chance to study ancient sealskin kayaks at the National Greenland Museum and Archives in Nuuk. Some skin boats in their collection date back from the 17th century and are presently not available for public viewing. Greenland kayaks have undergone many variations due to cultural influences and ecological change, but are generally recognized by their long raked ends, hard chines and low profile decks.

Wendell poses for a picture before paddling among drift ice above the Arctic Circle in West Greenland. The traditional Greenland paddle is trimmed with whale bone.

One umiak on display had been found in Northeast Greenland and was over 450 years old. Umiaks were large, open skin boats used for transportation and assisted in hunting. They varied in size but were generally 20 to 30 feet long with a beam of 5 to 6 feet.

My visit to Greenland awarded me the opportunity to observe what I had only read about for many years. It was fascinating to learn unique methods of joinery of ancient kayaks, and to study traditional techniques on the sea with the Greenland Inuit. Over the course of the month I also experienced the taste of seal and reindeer, and had opportunity to photograph Musk Ox and Humpback Whales.

When it was time to go, my gracious hosts presented me with an official Qaannat Kattuffiat paddle jacket, and an open invitation to return. Next time perhaps I'll take along some of our good old Canadian maple syrup.

Wendell Phillips is a practitioner of Greenland technique and student of traditional kayak building. He lives in Peachland, British Columbia. More images of skin boats and other adventures can be seen on his website. www.wendellphillips.com