Exploring With Dive Kayaks

April-May 2002

This is an article from WaveLength Magazine, available in print in North America and globally on the web.
To download a pdf copy of the magazine click here: > DOWNLOAD

by Barb Roy

A lovely day at Porteau Cove in Howe Sound. Photo: Barb Roy

There are many fun activities you can do in the Pacific Northwest, but my husband Wayne and I always find trips more rewarding when we can take our 14-year old daughter, Tallen, with us. Since Tallen is home-schooled, we are always looking to include history, science and a bit of research in our excursions.

Recently, after searching the Internet for places of interest, we selected Porteau Cove in BC, and Orcas Island in Washington State, as two destinations to explore.

PORTEAU COVE

After securing our dive kayaks on the roof racks of our car and loading the dive gear into a travel container, we stashed the books, microscope, and photography equipment inside, leaving just a small spot for Tallen in the back seat.

We found Porteau Cove Provincial Park easy to access, via Highway 99 which borders the east side of Howe Sound. A popular year-round dive site among Vancouver locals, the park offers picnic tables and summer camping.

In 1981 the area became the first underwater park in BC and in 1994 it was designated as a marine sanctuary.

Our day was blessed with bright sun and favorable weather reports. As we carried our kayaks down a set of concrete stairs, a couple in sea kayaks were just paddling in. They commented on a mild surface current but said the coastline was very calm.

Tallen put her snorkeling gear on and began studying a small plastic, marine life identification slate as Wayne and I brought our scuba gear down. We secured the gear onto two, 12-foot sit-on-top dive kayaks, in open compartments behind the seats. Tallen has a smaller kayak, a bit under 8 feet, which suits her well for snorkeling as it is light enough to pull around.

Kayaks await passengers on one of Orcas' gentle beaches.. Photo: Barb Roy

Tallen headed along a shallow pebble sandbar looking for rock crabs and hermit crabs while Wayne and I paddled out to a huge float marking the Nakaya, a 136-foot long YMS-Class minesweeper from World War II, sunk in 1985.

Loaded with gear, the kayaks sat low in the water, but maneuvered well. Mask, snorkel, fins and gloves were stowed near the bow, along with my underwater camera system. Although it's rare that we ever venture into rough water-and rolling this type of boat is almost impossible-I still find myself clipping everything to the kayak out of habit.

We already had our dry suits on and our weight-integrated buoyancy vests. Now we simply slipped on the scuba units and donned the rest of the gear. Once the kayaks were secured to the float, we descended a line attached to the stern of the sunken vessel.

Years of deterioration were evident throughout the deck and hull, with great chunks breaking away, leaving access to the ship's interior for fish and other small residents. Carefully we moved forward along the the starboard side. Three separate white masses caught my attention-nests of eggs. A large, dark lingcod loomed above them.

I remember Tallen and I had studied lingcod not long ago at the Vancouver Aquarium. We learned that the males remain on guard for the eggs, not the females. What a concept!

This male kept a watchful eye on me as I photographed his brood, then we continued on, finding an assortment of invertebrates covering the wreck, but none so memorable as the giant ling.

Tallen was waiting when we surfaced, anxious for a report. Upon hearing of our ling encounter and the egg masses, Tallen helped us fill out a 'Lingcod Egg Mass Survey' data collection sheet for the Vancouver Aquarium.

After unloading the dive gear, we went for an afternoon exploration paddle around the cove. Tallen and Wayne practiced their navigational techniques and I photographed shorebirds. It was great getting away from the big city hustle and bustle, yet close enough we didn't need to stay overnight.

ORCAS ISLAND

Our trip to Orcas Island began on a car ferry out of Anacortes, Washington. Tallen scanned a map of the island, reporting Mount Constitution was 2405 feet high, and noting that the elegant Moran mansion, at Rosario Resort, had a museum worthy of investigation.

Once off the ferry we drove to the crescent-shaped beach next to the Resort's harbour, overlooking Cascade Bay. The crystal clear water glistened in the sun as some divers prepared to enter. Tallen forgot she didn't have her dry suit on and went wading into the water to see the small crabs, anemones, starfish and long orange sea cucumbers while Wayne and I unloaded the kayaks. As I stood beside my kayak in the shallows, a small octopus made its way between my feet, chasing after a hermit crab.

The whole bay turned out to be an awesome aquatic nursery. Although currents can be treacherous in some areas, Orcas has several sheltered bays and coves to explore with kayaks and snorkeling gear.

During our four-day stay, we studied the behavior and interaction of various critters and photographed both marine and shore wildlife. I was amazed at how many Bald Eagles resided around the island, as well as the Great Blue Heron population. And below the emerald, nutrient rich water of Orcas Island we found natural reefs teaming with life.

Since our kayaks are sit-on-tops, we turned them into mini-study platforms. By anchoring the kayaks or wrapping kelp around them (like an otter does) we could freely snorkel the area, bringing critters back to place in large clear plastic zip-lock bags for temporary observation. Tallen recorded the species and enjoyed a closer look at what the decorator crabs were wearing.

Betty Pratt-Johnson, author of three dive guidebooks and several kayaking books, joined us one day for a dive at Rosario Wall. It was interesting to hear how she is updating two of her books. At age 71 she's still going strong!

Overall our adventure was once again as fun as it was educational for all involved. Tallen is already planning our next outing, so Wayne and I will just have to wait and see what unfolds.

© Barb Roy is an outdoor adventure photojournalist living in Vancouver, BC. She travels the West Coast, sometimes with family in tow, exploring the underwater world with scuba gear and topside with dive kayaks.

Editor's Note: Sinking old ships as 'artificial reefs' is controversial. See www.GeorgiaStrait.org for more information.