Winter Getaways: Paddling a Pacific Paradise

October-November 2001

This is an article from WaveLength Magazine, available in print in North America and globally on the web.
To download a pdf copy of the magazine click here: > DOWNLOAD

by Kathryn Gardner

Foamy waves lapped on the hot sandy beach as our party of ten launched a fleet of double and single kayaks into the gentle surf at Playa Samara, on Costa Rica's Nicoya Peninsula. The warm, salty water was slightly murky with the current, nevertheless we could easily see
colourful fish as they skimmed along the rocky shelf a few feet below our hulls. Above us, the "Costa Rican air force" glided in perfect v-formation-the outstretched wings of the ever-present brown pelicans living true to their nickname.

One member of our party, Andrew, a surfer from California, drifted southwards from our group. Intent on the activity below, he wasn't paying attention to what was happening on the surface. Not that it would have helped much. None of us could have predicted the ten-foot
wave that curled up out of nowhere, across a shallow reef, yawning like a monster, picking up Andrew's boat in its gaping, frothy jaws and taking him for a ride. Andrew faced his foe bravely, surfing the slope backwards until he reached the trough, where he was promptly
swallowed whole. The monster passed, leaving Andrew sputtering, his belongings scattered, but otherwise unscathed. It was the rogue wave of the day, a one and only appearance that left us all much more alert and appreciative of both nature's beauty and strength.

Such is sea-kayaking on Costa Rica's northwest coast. Here, a thirty-kilometer strip of coastline between Punta Barco Quebrado and Punta Coyote boasts an incredible variety of paddling experiences ranging from tranquil, wildlife-rich mangrove estuaries and protected bays, to adrenaline pumping kayak-surfing opportunities. The ocean averages 26°C, the beaches are white, soft and sandy. What's more, this area of Costa Rica is not "foreignized" like many of the better-known destinations in this tourism-driven country."I came [to the area] for the surf but stayed because the monkeys outnumber the people", says Tad Cantrel, owner of Popo's Adventures, based near Playa Carillo, a tranquil, palm tree-lined beach just south of Playa Samara. "Here you get the real feeling of Costa Rica."

Born in the British Virgin Islands, Tad lived in Europe and the United States before heading to Costa Rica for a short-term stint as a rafting guide. That was ten years ago. Now Tad, his Tica wife Susana and their four kids live in this tiny corner of pacific paradise operating a successful sea-kayaking business. "This place is so beautiful, the social knit is incredible-it is a perfect place for kids to grow up," says Tad.

An easy 4.5 hour drive on paved roads from San Jose International Airport or a 40 minute flight makes Carillo an excellent jumping-off point for touring this section of the Nicoya Peninsula. The town is small but offers a modest campground, a few guest houses and a couple of restaurants serving up such tico specialties as fresh fish, casadsos (rice, beans, fried plantains, salad and meat of your choice), gallo pinto (a typical breakfast of fried rice, beans, cilantro and onions), freshly squeezed tropical juices and of course, cold beer.

From Carillo you can immediately begin exploring by water or head overland (a 4X4 vehicle is required since all subsidiary roads are dirt and often entail river crossings) to nearby estuaries or rivers.

Nearby, the town of Samara is well serviced by hotels, restaurants, and guest houses-the majority of which are owned and operated by locals-giving the area a decidedly "tico" feel. There is even a disco or two for those craving upbeat nightlife.

Back in the bay off Samara, we managed to get Andrew and his gear safely stowed back into his kayak and continued on our way-this time taking a wide and wary berth around the hidden reef and frothy monsters, and out towards the open ocean. The sun had risen higher in the sky, bathing us in searing heat, and sunlight glanced off the small whitecaps in blinding flashes. I mused at the flashes, wondering how a particular wave was making vertical leaps into the air, when I realized that the flashes also possessed a tailand wide flat wings. Manta rays! Hurling themselves into the air, four, five six times without a pause-a feat that left us mere mortals in awe and envy of their skill.

Not to be outdone by vertical leaps, a school of flying fish decided to get into the game. Soaring inches above the waves, the fish flew some 20 feet in the air before hitting the surface with tiny splashes. Ripples on the surface indicated more action, as schools of smaller fish writhed and wriggled to avoid the jaws of some unseen
predator.

We journeyed southwards around Punta Indio, a jut of land boasting craggy cliffs and treacherous reefs on its rocky shores. Waves pounded the rocks with unrelenting force and as we gazed at the shoreline, awed by beauty and danger, our guide pointed out his favorite surfing wave.

"Not much room for error," he intoned "but a hell of a ride." His grin widened as he recalled a particularly good day on the waves. These swells were a little beyond the skills of our party so we paddled on towards Playa Carillo.

Rumour has it that the perfect line of coconut palms was planted to mark a drop zone for drug runners, although the only thing dropping there now is the occasional sun-baked tourist seeking shade beneath the fronds.

On the beach near Playa Carillo.

While his guides loaded up the gear, Tad drew a map in the sand, describing a quiet back road leading to hidden coves with tide pools and a waterfall. If we were lucky, we might even spot a troop of mantled-howler monkeys along the way. Sure enough, after walking only 10 minutes I happened to glance up and found myself face to face with a wide-eyed nursling clinging to its mother's back. Baby howlers cling to their mothers until they are five to six months old and can move independently. "Who here is in the zoo?" I pondered as our groups checked each other out.

Streamers of aerial roots parted like beaded curtains as we silently slipped through the still waters of the Bejuco Mangrove Estuary early one morning. Located approximately 14 km by sea or 27 km by land south of Carillo, Bejuco is a little-known wilderness gem hidden on the Nicoya. The thick canopy of red and black mangroves towered above the tangle of exposed roots, leaping across the muddy basin, creating a tranquil sanctuary that belied the pounding surf a short distance away.

Grackles and squirrel cuckoos twittered and squawked as they hopped from branch to branch, while large boat-billed herons quietly honked their disapproval of our passage. A tiny green kingfisher flashed iridescent green as it alighted from its perch, but the pièce de resistance was the tiny softball-sized nest, balanced in a bow-shaped branch overhanging the channel about three feet from the water. We could see the tiny point of a beak angled up out of the nest, mirrored by a tiny tail. Hummingbird.

"There are nests all around here if you know where to look," explained Tad, whose knowledge of the area's flora and fauna is exceeded only by his enthusiasm to share it. One time, he found a nest containing three chickpea size eggs, abandoned by the mother hummer for reasons unknown.

All too soon the falling tide began draining the water out of the one-way estuary and it was time to retrace our way back to the viney curtains that marked our entry. The sunlight was blinding on Coyote Beach after the dim estuary and we sought out a shady spot to enjoy a light picnic lunch and contemplate the waves. The breakers were a little daunting today, even for a swim, so we decided that paddling off the beach was best left for another day and headed for the tranquility of Rio Ora instead.

The river is rusty coloured, slow moving and teeming with wildlife. Herons and raptors, lizards and iguanas, monkeys and butterflies were all waiting to be spotted amongst lush foliage.

Between Bejuco and Rio Ora, however, lies Bar Barranquila and no visit to the southwest Nicoya would be complete without a stop at the "Monkey Bar". Located high on a hill near Punta Islita, this rustic watering hole commands a view that stretches south to Cabo Blanco, the southernmost tip of the peninsula. The bar is nicknamed for the ubiquitous howler monkeys that frequent the mango trees surrounding the establishment. There is not much of a selection, but the drinks are cold and the bar is a favorite of locals and visitors alike.

All too soon our time on the Nicoya drew to an end. There was so much more to explore: rugged coastline, secluded beaches and tide pools, waves waiting to be surfed and wildlife to spot that we were already making plans to return before we finished our final paddle.

© Kathryn Gardner is a freelance writer and outdoor leader currently living in Nelson, BC. Popo's Adventures offers day and overnight tours for all ages and levels of experience.

IF YOU GO
Popo's Adventures: www.poposcostarica.com, Carillo, Nicoya Peninsula, Costa Rica.
Phone: 506-656-0086
Fax: 506-656-0092.
Email: info@poposcostarica.com. Playa Carillo Tourism Information: www.carrillobeach.com

Travel by bus from San Jose to Carillo. Tracopa Alfaro Bus Lines-San Jose office located at Calle 14 y 16 Ave 13, San José.
Phone: +506 222-2666
Fax: +506 255-2981.
Email: tracopa@racsa.co.cr

Driving directions: from San Jose follow the Interamericana Highway North, until the turnoff for the Tempisque Ferry (ferry to Nicoya).
After crossing the Gulf of Nicoya, drive directly to Nicoya and from there turn south to Samara.

Airlines: Travelair: www.travelair-costarica.com.
Email: reservations@travelair-costarica.com .
Phone: 506-220-3052
Fax: 506-220-0413.
Sansa: www.flysansa.com.
Email: info@flysansa.com.
Phone: 506-221-9414
Fax: 506-255-2176