Winter Paddling: Coron Island, Philippine Paradise

October-November 2000

This is an article from WaveLength Magazine, available in print in North America and globally on the web.

by John ‘Caveman’ Gray

Sea Canoe guides take a break to play in the waters around Coron All photos courtesy of Sea Canoe International

Exploring the Philippines' 7,000 islands and countless coral reefs was my boyhood dream. When I started SCUBA diving in the 50s, the Philippine archipelago was considered by divers as the classic marine paradise, but many reefs have since been destroyed by fishermen.

In 1995, I explored a limestone rock lost in an 'unknown' group of islands off northern Palawan. When we reached the difficult-to-find domestic airport, we found our eight-seat plane waiting, the crew nervous about overweight gear. Our best explorations always start with small planes and overweight problems!

From 5,000 feet, the Camiguin Islands were obviously special-top-level tropical Pacific. Beyond the wingtips, underwater rainbows circled green islands which peppered the rich blue carpet stretching to the horizon. Dominating these colors was a cloud-laden limestone tower. In awe, we descended to Busuanga's gravel airstrip and the reality of an open-aired jeepney on a bumpy dirt road-45 dusty minutes to the Coron Town pier and the view to Coron Island, two miles distant.

Coron Island's reefs have experienced much less damage than elsewhere thanks to the indigenous Tagbanua people whose presence dominates any sensitive paddle plan. For five centuries, these reclusive and resilient people resisted Spanish, American and Japanese colonialists, missionaries, birds' nest collectors, and resort developers. Unfazed by economics, Tagbanua enjoy their subsistence lifestyle and do not work for money. They consider Coron and her wetlands sacred, from the inland lakes to perfect offshore coral columns.

Much to their credit, Filipino courts support Tagbanua rights. In a recent landmark legal case, the Tagbanua nation won the deed to what's left of their ancestral lands, including all of Coron. Then Coron made more news by becoming one of the Philippines' first 'National Protected Areas'.

It took three years before we finally met the Tagbanua Council of Elders. After developing trust and friendship, we explained eco-friendly sea kayaking. The Tagbanua now welcome sea kayakers who respect their rights and culture. We never paddle in Lake Cayangan and never enter villages or Coron's interior, including the tempting Chain of Lakes. But some operators advertise village visits, which the Council recently confirmed as 'definitely not permitted'. The Tagbanua are worried about outside encroachment. Please respect their rights or Coron could be lost to kayaking.

Coron's coral-filled waters

Ground rules seem complicated to Westerners, but not to the Tagbanua. In the two coastal lakes, visitors can swim and SCUBA but no kayaking. We can camp, but not on beaches with burial sites, nomadic homesteads, or almost unnoticeable tuber-root gardens. Some coral is sacred, and several reefs host Giant Octopus spirits-so no spearfishing. Women should dress modestly, so wear a shirt when you paddle past a homestead. Complicating matters, Tagbanua move around the island, so if you are self-paddling, talk with the kayakers on the Market pier for the latest 'intelligence'.

Formalities aside, experienced kayakers can circumnavigate Coron in a few days, but budget a week. Snorkeling and rock gardens are central to your experience, so try sit-on-top kayaks. Join the tropical elements-don't avoid them. Bounce about the rock gardens, traverse narrow and rocky channels, slide under arches and overhangs, jump in and out of your kayak. Several Coron shops rent sit-on-tops for less than it costs to transport your own boat.

Even in the Tropics, consider the season. From June to December, the long cliffs of the East Coast catch prevailing weather. Crazies might enjoy the nasty seas, but with non-stop chop and only three take-outs in 15 miles, most folks would die. Expect constant rain. Blue sky 'wintertime' is a different story.

The Route

The East Side of Coron is usually negotiable, but due to weathering, dramatic coral is rare. Paddle the mangroves, but avoid the Tagbanua village. Further on, an outcropping hides a crack into a picturesque cliff-lined lagoon-some folks sit motionless for an hour, drifting in tranquility. With proper timing, you can camp on the outcropping. South Point's well-protected, shallow bay has beds of coral and sea grass. If any dugong (manatee) remain, they live here. A nice place to spend the day-the bay hosts numerous burial sites-but windward weather doesn't encourage camping. It's best to paddle around South Point to make camp. Tie everything down, dress for wet, and have fun with the short, choppy paddle. Approaching South Point from the East gives you rough following seas. Ocean swimmers will enjoy the warm water.

The west side of Coron

Clear the point and the seas are calm, but the current continues pushing you around to the West Coast, where a nice beach fronts a partially damaged reef next to two small coves. A third large cove with towering cliffs creates confused winds, and a lot of fun. Once you escape, turn right into one of tropical kayaking's finest views. Coron's leeward side is truly majestic-15 miles of sheer cliffs-and you usually see the entire coastline. The Hawaiian-style cliffs rise 2,000 feet above you, and run the island's length until gradually dropping into water. The colorful seas at their base are a déjà vu of your airplane ride. A chain of narrow sandy beaches backed by tamarind trees make inviting campsites, but many are Tagbanua homesteads. Others are gravesites.

You are already over coral, so grab your mask, tie the bowline to your waist, and get wet. Catch the correct reef and you are in a wonderland, but if you are off ten meters, the devastation reminds you of East Timor. Only experienced local knowledge knows the best spots, so if you hit dead coral, move on.

Sit-on-tops are perfect for Coron's tidal nape (overhang), a shaded three-dimensional obstacle course that's fun even for rock garden novices. Kissing rocks is inevitable-the better you are, the closer you want to get. Just avoid the overhang on high tides, unless you want a new haircut.

In 'wintertime' it's easy to spend two days-or a week-snorkeling under Coron's blue skies and steep cliffs. Sleep late in the shade, snorkel in the afternoon, enjoy the sunset with spectacled langurs, and slowly work your way towards Smith's Point, where several pocket beaches always offer at least one culturally correct and comfortable camping option. Around Smith's Point is that dramatic townside coast.

Coron Island - The Philippines	Sit-on-tops are great for topical waters

You can paddle the coast in a day, but take two to truly enjoy the 3-mile 'Limestone Maze'. The first section is an endless coral-fronted rock garden. Bounce into hidden lagoons, but give coral plenty of space. This rocky playground consumes a half-day of laughter before a coral-littered channel enters a bay where the cliffs rise into clouds.

Kayaks are easily transported on the outriggers of 'bancas'

Turn left into 'The Maze', where limestone drops straight into motionless royal blue liquid-plastered with coral. The place is so tranquil you might hear a bird's flight before you see it. No media can adequately captures the thick tranquility of The Maze.

Catch the low tide to traverse the sea arch to avoid an hour's paddle to the other side. The 'outside' paddle includes additional rock and coral gardens, so poor tidal timing might be a bonus. Either way, don't miss both sides of the arch. There's a friendly Tagbanua homestead on the Northwest side. Sheer cliffs preclude West Side homesteads, but the cliff/coral combination is spectacular. Several snorkels later, there's a tamarind tree beach that's great for camping. Sitting on the beach, look at Smith's Point just over a mile away, and let your mind race with the memory of this short paddle.

To the right and a half-mile offshore, Twin Peaks is a Sacred Octopus location. In clear view of the Coast Guard station, the pinnacles remain textbook coral. Even free diving, you just about see it all. Ledges drop straight down with a variety of fish, coral and marine vegetation that would spin Darwin's mind-why so many different reef fish in so many different colors? It's nice knowing that sites like Twin Peaks still exist.

Paddle back to Barracuda Lake, swimming permitted if you dare walk the jagged pinnacles. Further on, a narrow, shallow channel enters a mangrove lagoon with another tranquility fix. After the mangroves, work down the coast to Lake Cayangan, jewel of Coron. The lake trail approach is splattered with coral and strange tidal zone tubes pumping water straight from rock. Reef fish are everywhere.

Paddling inside the lake is forbidden-Tagbanua Elders worry that kayaking may open the door to motorboats. However, swimming, snorkeling and SCUBA diving is highly recommended. The trail is about 300 meters over a nice hill, and the swim well worth it. Bring bug juice.

After the lake, there are two more turquoise coves. The circumnavigation finishes right across the channel from Makinit Hot springs, a two-hour crossing unless you ordered a banca. The boat ride buys more time in the double-pool hot springs, a welcome delight after a week of paddling and camping.

John 'Caveman' Gray runs Sea Canoe International based in Thailand. Contact him at wave@seacanoe.com. Website: www.seacanoe.com ©