West Coast Paddling Protocols
February-March 2000
This is an article from WaveLength Magazine, available in print in North America and globally on the web.
by David Wiwchar
There is a tension building on the WestCoast of Vancouver Island. Lines of cars and sport utility vehicles from all across North America, topped with multi-coloured kayaks of every design, travel the Pacific Rim Highway each summer making their way to kayaking's new Valhalla. Many tours, hotels, restaurants and giftshops now cater predominantly to the kayak market, but outside the small centers of Port Alberni, Tofino, Ucluelet, Gold River and Bamfield, many people are sadly tabulating the price of success.
For the 14 Nuu-chah-nulth Nations who have lived along the rugged west coast of Vancouver Island for thousands of years, kayakers are seen as the latest threat in a 250-year long battle to save traditional burial grounds and sacred sites.
Burial caves that once held the remains and favoured possessions of powerful Tyee Ha'wiih (Head Chiefs), now lie empty, their contents stolen by explorers and overzealous anthropologists.
Towering Spruce trees where traditional healers were laid to rest close to the Creator, have been leveled by logging companies concerned only with profits.
Recently, a homeowner near Tofino built a large sundeck around a Spruce tree where burial remains are still evident. But since the tree sits on what is now private property, local First Nations were powerless in stopping the development or rescuing the remains.
"It's never too late for people to become more sensitive in our areas," said Nelson Keitlah, who represents five First Nations in his position as Central Region Co-Chair for the Nuu-chah-nulth Tribal Council (NTC).
"We would like kayakers and other visitors to our territories to be aware of our history in these regions, and to show respect towards a First Nation's heritage and cultural places."
Discussing the issue of kayakers visiting a First Nation's Hahoulthee (traditional territory) with a number of Nuu-chah-nulth leaders, the word Iisaak (pronounced "Ee-saak", meaning "respect") came up quite often.
"Can you imagine what would happen if a Native person went in and started digging up a white cemetery and hauling away the bones?" said Mathew Lucas of the Hesquiaht First Nation. "We would like them to show the same respect towards our burial grounds that we show to their cemeteries. Just because we didn't believe in burying our dead, but rather, putting them in caves, or up in trees with their favorite possessions, does that make the remains of our ancestors somehow less valuable than others?"
Although Lucas would like kayakers to stay out of caves, he recognizes natural human curiosity, hoping that individuals who do come across remains will not disturb them in any way.
Indeed, many of the caves that once held remains are now empty, but many still hold bones, masks, woven cedar clothing, and other sacred artifacts. And despite the prolific and illegal desecration of sacred burial caves along the BC coast, only one fine has ever been levied, and that was back in 1973 when the fine for such a crime was only $300 (today the fine is $500,000).
"The best thing to do when planning on kayaking in Nuu-chah-nulth territory, is to phone the office of the Nation whose hahoulthee you plan to explore," said Keitlah. "You won't receive a list of where these sacred places are, but we would like to know if you're planning on camping on or near areas where you would require a First Nation's permission."
"If you contact our office, we'll let you know where it's appropriate to camp, and can even put a map together for you," said Lucas. "We have over 20 burial heritage sites in our territory. We don't touch them other than to go out and make sure they're still there. So if a kayaker goes into a cave and finds remains, we would really appreciate it if they would just leave the artifacts alone, and give our office a call letting us know what they saw and where."
The NTC estimates more than 50,000 paddlers took to the waters of Nuu-chah-nulth Territories (from Brooks Peninsula stretching south to Port Renfrew) in 1999. Realizing that kayakers will be flocking to the West Coast for many years to come, many First Nations are trying to accommodate paddlers, hoping to build trust and respect.
Some Nuu-chah-nulth Nations will grant pre-approved permission to kayakers wishing to camp on secluded islands or areas within Pacific Rim National Park designated Indian Reserve lands.
Despite past problems, Nuu-chah-nulth First Nations are trying to relieve tensions by working towards a respectful relationship with kayak tour operators and visiting paddlers. "But," adds Keitlah, "it only takes one or two people to ruin this relationship we're trying to develop."
Safety is also an important reason for contacting the nearest First Nation Office prior to your trip: it's fine to tell Aunt Wendy in Winnipeg that you'll be paddling the Pinkertons, but by advising a local First Nation office of your travel plans increases the likelihood of a rescue should something go wrong, and the person you speak to may offer insights into the area.
Many First Nations are opening sacred locations to kayakers and eco-tour groups. The Huu-ay-aht First Nation recently revealed to the world, their ancient capital of Kiix?in (pronounced Kee-khun). Hidden from view by a thick cloak of salal and cedar, this recently designated Federal Heritage Site is the last surviving Native village on the west coast of Vancouver Island where architectural remains such as house posts and massive entrance beams still stand.
So when planning your next trip to explore Vancouver Island's rugged west coast, remember there is a deep and powerful history here, and take every opportunity to abide by Nuu-chah-nulth protocols so this incredible landscape will be open to paddlers for years to come.
David Wiwchar is the Managing Editor and Southern Region Reporter for Ha-Shilth-Sa, Canada's oldest First Nations' Newspaper, which is published by the Nuu-chah-nulth Tribal Council. His freelance articles have appeared in outdoors magazines and newspapers throughout North America. Contact the Ha-Shilth-Sa newspaper ("Interesting News") at:
Box 1383, Port Alberni, B.C. V9Y 7M2.
Ph: 250-724-5757Fax: 250-723-0463
Web: www.nuuchahnulth.org/hashilth
Email: hashilth@island.net
Fourteen Tribes of the Nuu-chah-nulth
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