Visiting Haida Gwaii

February-March 2000

This is an article from WaveLength Magazine, available in print in North America and globally on the web.

by Mary Kellie

The Haida Nation of Gwaii Haanas (Queen Charlotte Islands) began a Watchmen Program in 1981 when the number of visitors to the area increased and the need to watch over the cultural heritage of the area grew. The Haida Gwaii Watchmen work closely with Parks Canada which has funded the program since 1990.

Watchman's house at Windy Bay Photo Alan Wilson

Watchmen live at five village sites from May through September. The villages are K'uuna (Skedans), T'aanuu (Tanu), Hlk'yah (Windy Bay), Gandle K'in (Hotspring Island) and SGaang Gwaii (Anthony Islands). T'aanuu and K'uuna are outside the national park reserve boundaries but within the Haida Heritage Site boundaries. Two to four Watchmen reside at each site, including Elders. Watchmen act as guardians to protect the natural and cultural heritage of these sites and act as point of contact for visitor information or emergencies.

Although the Watchman role is one of guardianship, there is significant interaction between both our client groups and staff. At some sites, the Watchmen may provide some interpretive services on a voluntary basis and over the years have been instrumental in educating our guides through their actions and counsel.

The Watchmen also provide a communication and safety network in emergencies. Each camp is equipped with radio telephones and in situations where there is a question of safety, the Watchmen can always be counted on to pass on telephone messages, report on sightings of overdue paddlers or delays in pickup or drop-off due to weather.

Gwaii Haanas is a unique protected area and is co-managed by the Council of the Haida Nation and the Government of Canada, through the Archipelago Management Board (AMB)

The AMB has put in place a Code of Conduct for all parts of Gwaii Haanas. The main points when visiting cultural sites are as follows:

• There is a limit of 12 people ashore at the basecamps, so you must radio ahead on Channel 6 to ask the Watchmen for permission to land before you arrive.

• There is a responsibility on the part of each visitor-whether independent or part of a group-to educate him or herself prior to the departure date of his or her trip. This includes traveling safely and being knowledgeable.

• There is no camping allowed at any of the basecamps with the exception of Hlk'yah (Windy Bay) where there are two campsites for sheltering in bad weather.

• Stay on the trails at the basecamps. Cultural remains such as poles and longhouses are in fragile condition. It is easy to damage these cultural remains-without realizing it.

• Alcohol is not allowed at any basecamp(including the hot pools at Gandle K'in)

• The Haida Gwaii Watchmen are on site seven days a week. Other than emergencies, please try to keep your visits to daylight hours, especially at Gandle K'in and SGaang Gwaii where traffic is particularly heavy.

• If you are subject to skin and/or ear infections, or have any open cuts or wounds, the AMB recommends that you refrain from using the hot pools at Gandle K'in.

• At SGaang Gwaii, please do not bring your vessel (this means kayaks too) into the bay in front of the village, since this activity disturbs visitors who are in the village site.

• In order to deal with human waste at the Haida Gwaii Watchmen Basecamps, solar composting toilets have been installed at all sites. Please use them.

• Prior to undertaking any photography within Gwaii Haanas for commercial gain, the photographer must obtain a business license. An application for license is available by contacting the Gwaii Haanas office.

• Take your garbage with you when you leave.

• For those traveling in an independent self guided trip, please be advised that it is mandatory that you obtain a permit to visit from the Gwaii Haanas Office as well as attending the orientation session available either in Sandspit or Queen Charlotte City. You can obtain your reservation and free information package by phoning SuperNatural BC at 1-800-HELLO BC .
  
  And for the visitor wishing to join a group on a guided cultural experience within the Gwaii Haanas:
  
  Reservation, orientation and fee collection is all done by your operator as part of your tour package.
  
  Tour operators in Gwaii Haanas must have a license to operate and a quota issued and approved by the AMB. (This means that your tour company will have met all the requirements including safety, boat standards, guide training and experience necessary for licensing.)

• You can check your tour operator's license and qualifications by phoning the Gwaii Haanas office at 250-559-8818.

If you haven't selected a qualified tour operator you may request a list of licensed operators from the Gwaii Haanas Office and they may also indicate which operators specialize in cultural tours.

There are other village sites (not occupied on a year round basis) that can be visited: Cumshewa Village on Cumshewa Inlet and the west coast village site of Ts'aahl (Chaatl) on Chaatl Island. These sites are outside the Gwaii Haanas boundary and do not have Haida Gwaii Watchmen Basecamps.

In visiting these sites it is advisable to use the same code of conduct that applies to the village sites in Gwaii Haanas and to apply for permission from the clan families responsible for these sites. This will ensure that the families will be able to monitor usage of these sites and will be able to impart information relating to the sites as necessary.

For permission to visit the Cumshewa Village site, contact Stoas Xaadagaa. Chief Cumshewa, Charley Wesley. Ph: 250-559-8020. Mail: Charlie Wesley, Chief Cumshewa, Skidegate, BC V0T 1S0.

For Chaatl, contact Lonnie Young. Phone: 250-559-4668. Mail: Lonnie Young, Queen Charlotte City, BC V0T 1S0.

Remember that the Haida have lived here on Haida Gwaii for millennia. These islands are a source of inspiration and sustenance for them now as they have been for over 10,0000 years. Be sure to thank the Haida Gwaii Watchmen and the Clan Families for welcoming you and enhancing your experience with their stories and assistance.

Some information for this article has been taken from: Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve/Haida Heritage Site Visitors Handbook 1999. Thanks to Nika Brown and Michele Deakin.

Mary Kellie runs Queen Charlotte Adventures, an eco touring company offering cultural and natural history tours on the Queen Charlotte Islands/Haida Gwaii/Haida Heritage Site. Contact Queen Charlotte Adventures at PO Box 196 Queen Charlotte, BCV0T 1S0. Toll free: 800-668-4288 or 250-559-8990. Email: qciadven@qcislands.net