A Seafaring People

February-March 2000

This is an article from WaveLength Magazine, available in print in North America and globally on the web.

by Lori Speck

Undated archival shot of 'Yalis, Alert Bay Photo courtesy Royal British Columbia Museum, PN 2053

For thousands of years the people of the Northwest Coast of British Columbia travelled along the waterways of the great Pacific Ocean in beautifully crafted canoes. Many villages were situated along the shores of the majestic coastline so travel by canoe was a necessity. The canoe was also used to harvest the once abundant supply of cod, halibut, herring, and the great staple-salmon. The ocean provided other delicacies such as clams, oysters, mussels, crabs and seaweed, seal meat and eulachon oil.

Canoes were constructed from cedar-the highly respected, life-giving tree which was plentiful on the Northwest Coast. It was used for cedar plank houses and totem poles which decorated the village fronts. Ceremonial masks, headdresses, and rattles were carved from it, as well as tools, cooking utensils, watertight boxes and feast dishes. But the greatest achievement of the coastal craftsmen was the construction of the impressive canoes that were built to withstand the frequently turbulent waters of the Pacific Ocean.

Making a canoe was a lengthy process, which could take a master carver up to two years to complete. Prior to making a canoe the canoemaker would prepare himself spiritually. Then he would find the right size of tree-a red cedar tree found in the deepest part of the forest was best, as less sunlight meant fewer branches therefore fewer knotholes. He'd say a prayer thanking the spirit of the cedar tree for giving its life.

Nuu-chah-nulth canoe RBCM, PN 4626

The carver would fall the tree carefully to avoid damaging it, then remove the top of the fallen tree and the bark. He would shape the canoe, proportionately carving the log from end to end, then leave the unfinished canoe in the forest during the winter season to allow the wood to mature. In the spring the carver would return with his helpers to continue the unfinished project. The log was hollowed out and the dugout filled with water and heated with red‑hot stones until the wood was soaked thoroughly to make it pliable, and temporary crosspieces were carefully inserted.

Nuu-chah-nulth women demonstrating traditional dress, 1915, E.S. Curtis RBCM, PN 16917

When the water cooled and the wood set in its new form, the crosspieces were removed andpermanent thwartsinserted. The carver had to know the limits in this delicate process for if the hull was spread beyond its capacity the wood could split beyond repair. Separate prow and stern pieces were added for extra protection.

Finally the finishing touches were made: the hull was sanded using dried dogfish skin then polished and greased with whale oil. Often an elaborate carved or painted design would decorate the vessel.

Canoes were highly valued and well taken care of. When not in use they were removed from the water and covered with cedar

bark mats to protect the wood from the sun. They were carried, never dragged across the rocks-or if the canoe had to be dragged, a trail of soft brush free from stones was made to prevent damage. Canoe runs can still be found, especially across narrow isthmuses on the coast.

Canoes varied in size, from smaller vessels of no more than eight feet in length, carrying one or two paddlers, up to larger vessels up to 70 feet in length, constructed to carry 50‑60 people. These larger vessels were used by massive parties attending feasts, for transportation of goods from village to village, or for raiding parties.

Lori Speck is the former Cultural Coordinator of the U'mista Cultural Centre in Alert Bay.

A version of this article previously appeared in the Centre's Newsletter which she edits.