Paddlers Long Past

February-March 2000

This is an article from WaveLength Magazine, available in print in North America and globally on the web.

by Bryan Nichols

In keeping with the theme of this issue, this month we'll look for clues to ghostly neighbors. People have been paddling along the Northwest coast for thousands of years. If you're alert, you can find clues that will help you slip back in time and visit with them for a bit.

The various nations that first settled along the coast engaged in trading, warfare and similar human pursuits. Food was abundant and impressive settlements and cultures developed. The main differences between them and the Europeans that would eventually invade and usurp them were technological (see Jared Diamond's "The Third Chimpanzee" for an excellent discussion of why the people of North America didn't roam over to Europe and wipe out most of the Eurasian tribes instead of vice versa).

Local creation myths notwithstanding, it's controversial whether people have been in British Columbia longer than about 12,000 years. "Native" Americans are widely supposed to have come from Asia across the Bering Land bridge at the end of the last ice age and moved into British Columbia as the last ice sheets retreated.

The lack of long lasting clues like metal and large scale stone work means we have to look a little harder for evidence of these populations. That's undoubtedly a good thing-our own long term legacy will be plastic debris, heaps of old SUV tires and that pesky nuclear reactor waste.

So you're paddling along the wild west coast-how can you tell there were First Nations paddlers there before you? Keep an eye out for:

LifeList #11-Hints of Paddlers Past

MIDDENS

Essentially meaning "muck heap", middens are no doubt more interesting to us than they were at the time they were heaped (well before the "leave no trace" ethic). They are most noticeable at the high tide line where white shells eroding out of the bank are easy to spot. Many of our favorite campsites have been favorites for centuries, so middens are surprisingly common.

PETROGLYPHS

Local knowledge is the best way to find these-they are scattered throughout the province but can be faint and hard to spot on your own. Ask around, or refer to guidebooks.

TOOLS & TIDBITS

You are most likely to find these at remote sites, especially where waves and weather are eroding middens. Remember-photograph, sketch, wax poetic and so on-but don't take. Sure, you might need something to help collect dust on your mantle but it's illegal and no one will learn anything useful from it if you do.

STRIP SCARS

These are the most common CMTs. Cedars with long, even scars running up to the lowest branches were likely deliberately stripped-the fibrous bark was used for all sorts of things including clothing. I've been in spots above old village sites where nearly every cedar is stripped in this way.

SOUNDED TREES

Cedar wood itself was also used-often peeled off as planks from live trees. Evidence of this includes adze marks and gouges below the spots where pieces were removed. Trees were often "sounded"-holes where chipped in to check the quality. These are dateable so archaeologists are always interested in them (they may be marked or ribboned).

FELLED TREES

Occasionally it is possible to find stumps and trees that were cut right down-surprisingly big ones as well. You have to have a good eye for this-spotting a stump in BC is NOT particularly difficult. CMT stumps will be surrounded by old growth and likely show signs of chipping and burning. The bulk of the fallen tree may be nearby, with planks removed from it.

CANOES

For us kayakers, this is the ultimate find. Occasionally cedars were felled, work was started and then for some reason, stopped. Half built dugout canoes, covered with moss and rotting slowly back into the forest floor-how cool is that? They're out there, but unless you've got a horseshoe in your rear hatch you'll have to ask the locals.

TOTEMS

Developed by the Haida and adopted up and down the coast in more recent times, the most interesting totems are the ones rotting slowly back into the environment. Haida Gwaii and Mamaliliculla are notable spots to seek these out.

LONGHOUSES

Where villages still exist or were recently abandoned, the huge support posts of old longhouses can often be found. In some cases they are kept up or have become modest museums - check them out.

BURIAL CAVES & LEDGES

These used to be much more common on the coast-for instance the cliffs and overhangs at the north end of Newcastle Island (the ferry to Nanaimo passes right by as it enters Departure Bay) were noted for numerous "burials". Obviously they are much rarer now-though guided trips in remote areas occasionally pass by.

BURIAL BOXES

Many groups used boxes on stilts or in trees to inter their dead. You might find the remains of these boxes, though once again the vast majority have been looted or subsequently buried in "proper" Christian ceremonies. The combination of ancient cedar planks, thick moss and white bones makes for a deeply moving find.

For more info I recommend the book The First Nations of British Columbia. Read my review below.

 

The First Nations of British Columbia by Robert J Muckle Issues concerning native British Columbians are nothing new - nor are the misconceptions and prejudice that hamper better relations. This small book, compiled by a college teacher and consultant who has worked throughout BC, provides a level headed crash course in the history, cultural diversity and challenges facing B.C.'s First Nations. THE GOOD STUFF The book is divided into four parts, starting with a much needed description of what the heck a First Nation actually is, and some of the specifics of membership. Though coverage of this and other topics is necessarily brief, there is a suggested reading section at the end of each of the parts which will help you pursue your particular interest. Part two covers archaeology, touching on the basics as well as some of the more interesting spots in the province, some of which go back nearly ten thousand years. Part three is ethnology (the description of traditional lifeways) and looks at different "precolonial" cultures, languages, arts and technologies. In B.C., this means before about 1848 - not so long ago in the grand scheme of history. Popular and controversial topics such as potlatches, slavery and warfare are included. The final part concerns culture change and modernization - the topic we know most about, unfortunately. Overall this is a tragic story - even conservative estimates of First Nations population loss start at 75 percent (smallpox epidemics were the main killer). The resulting loss of skills, culture and oral traditions is difficult to imagine. The book treats this entire topic fairly, looking at politically sensitive topics like residential schools from various perspectives. It moves from the impact of the fur trade and gold rushes right up to modern conflicts over land and rights, treaty negotiations and economic initiatives by various bands. NITTY GRITTY A compact 14x22cm with 146 pages that include historical (black and white) photographs and occasional maps. The substantial appendices include a list (including brief notes) of every First Nation in B.C., descriptions of the major ethnic groups, key excerpts from three important legal agreements, a bibliography and glossary. There is no index. IF I WERE EDITOR This is a well designed little package - my changes would be quick and simple. I would have expanded the definition and explanation of the term "First Nations" in a more international context. Does it have any relevance outside B.C.? Outside Canada? Though a bit cumbersome (especially with the constant capitalization), I think the term is more evocative and accurate than its competition. What society ends up calling Columbus's "Indians" in North America is more than just PC semantics (and the title of the book) - it will help define, demystify and reduce prejudice against pre-colonial peoples throughout the world. With that notion in mind, I would try to make this book as inexpensive as possible. Twenty bucks isn't going to break every bank, but there are hundreds of thousands of people who need to understand the basics that this book contains and the more of us that can afford it, the better. TAKE IT HOME? Everyone in B.C. (from brand new immigrants to the different First Nations themselves) should have at least a basic understanding of the topics covered in this book. This is a concise and helpful overview you should look for in a library, classroom or bookstore. Because much of the material has changeable modern relevance, it will need to be updated regularly. GORY DETAILS The First Nations of British Columbia Robert J. Muckle UBC Press, 1998 147 p, $19.95 Cdn 0-7748-06663-X www.ubcpress.ubc.ca