Mothership Meanderings: Alert Bay

February-March 2000

This is an article from WaveLength Magazine, available in print in North America and globally on the web.

by Alan Wilson

Undated archival photo of 'Yalis, Alert Bay Photo courtesy Royal British Columbia Museum, PN 2053

We had many gorgeous days of cruising and paddling among the islands of the Broughton Archipelago last August, admiring glacier-scoured headlands, weathered evergreens with lichen-draped branches, rich kelp beds, staring seals, crabs, even a minke whale one day. We frequently saw the flash of shell beaches as we wove our way through the maze of islands, evidence of millennia of habitation.

After basking at anchor for several days of amazing weather, the sky turned grey and the wind began to whip up from the southeast, and we decided it was time to make the long awaited visit to Alert Bay-where many of the descendents of the original inhabitants of the region now live.

We crossed Queen Charlotte Strait somewhat ahead of a squall, stopping once to thrill to a pod of Dahl's porpoises busily feeding, then riding whitecaps around the tip of Cormorant Island, pulling into the bay.

This was my first visit, and my eyes were right away drawn by the totems in the native graveyard, and then by the big old brick building at the head of the bay-the infamous Indian Residential School.

The docks were crowded with inactive fishboats at what was usually the height of the season. But with fishing being shut down around the coast, the waterfront was strangely silent. We pulled into one of the remaining spots on the dock.

Kwakwaka'wakw Culture

New Big House in Alert Bay

Alert Bay is one of the largest First Nations communities on the west coast of North America, and one of the most culturally intact. The predominant Kwakwaka'wakw culture formerly extended throughout the region-twenty-three original groups speaking the same language but living separately, having separate tribal identities.

After the great epidemics of the late 19th century, the Kwakwaka'wakw population became focused at Alert Bay, Fort Rupert near Port Hardy, and in Campbell River. In Alert Bay, the population is mostly in Yalis, the reserve adjoining the town, and is largely 'Namgis, the people of the Nimpkish River on Vancouver Island across from Alert Bay.

The potlatch was then and still is at the heart of the Kwakwaka'wakw culture. These ceremonies marked important occasions such as births, marriages, deaths or the transfer of names.

As Agnes Alfred of Alert Bay says, "When one's heart is glad, he gives away gifts. It was given to us by our Creator, to be our way of doing things, to be our way of rejoicing... The potlatch was given to us to be our way of expressing joy."

In 1922 Alert Bay was the scene of a cultural clash, the Potlatch Trials, following the great potlatch of 1921 on Village Island when the Canadian federal government cracked down. They charged 45 people with offenses under the law of 1884 which outlawed potlatches, confiscated and even sold off valuable coppers, masks and regalia, and imprisoned some of the leaders for a few months.

The Kwakwaka'wakw petitioned the Canadian government for the return of their sacred treasures and the coppers of their Chiefs, but only after decades did the government agree to return the items on the condition that museums be built to house them. Most of the artifacts have now been repatriated, and reside in the U'mista Cultural Centre, opened in 1980, and the Kwakiutl Museum at Cape Mudge on Quadra Island which opened in 1979.

Gilbert and Vicky offer tours

Our Tour

From the beach, the U'mista Centre looks like a traditional long house with its great painted cedar facade. It's noticeably situated in front of weathered brick edifice of the Residential School which now houses the offices of the Tribal Council and other agencies.

Entering the great carved doors of the U'mista center, we were invited to sit through a very moving introductory video chronicling the struggle for return of the artifacts and the resurgence of Kwakwaka'wakw culture.

Then we toured the artifacts themselves and read the tale of the government repression outlined with text from original sources. This is an exhibit not to be missed, and a history which puts current Treaty struggle in perspective.

The Cultural Centre also has a display of current native artistry-beautiful masks, jewelry, designs-showing that the traditional skills have not been lost. Native art of this calibre is much sought and commands a good price

Right next door, carvers invited us into a studio in the basement of the Residential School where some of this fine work is produced. I wondered what the authorities of old would have thought had they been able to foresee thebeautiful items now being wrought in their basement.

We walked uphill from the U'mista Centre to the beautiful new Big House, the community centre which opened last summer. Standing outside is one of the world's tallest totem poles, carved in the 60s and rising 173 feet, representing some of the tribes of the Kwakwaka'wakw.

The Big House is the site of performances of Kwakwaka'wakw culture by students several days a week through the summer-well worth attending.

Nearby is the new school-a magnificent design reminiscent of traditional dwellings-which offers the provincial curriculum plus opportunities for dance, song and language. Near the school is the smart new 'Namgis First Nation office building.

We also visited the Alert Bay Ecological Park, a snaking boardwalk through an eerie bog spiked with ominous-looking dead snags of drowned trees. The bog is surrounded by a mossy rainforest path that passes through healthy forest with some culturally modified trees (non-lethal removal of strips of bark for craft and ceremonial purposes).

Meetings

During our visit to Alert Bay, we were honoured to receive Chief Bill Cranmer aboard our boat. We had met once in Victoria and I had been looking forward to asking him some questions. I found him very optimistic about the community, about the future of native cultural ecotourism, and the revival of traditions (see next page).

We also had a chance to meet with First Nations tour operator Gilbert Cook and his wife Vicky. The Cooks operate the classic west coast former seiner-Cape Cook-as a tour boat. Gilbert is a long time fishing captain who is parlaying his intimate knowledge of the area and his comfortable vessel into a new career as tour guide and host. He enjoys showing the area to people from around the world and welcomes groups, including kayakers, to charter his services. Gilbert is one of a number of First Nations entrepreneurs intent on proving that ecotourism is a viable business opportunity.

G.Cook's Tours, toll free 1-877-974-5002. www.alertbay.com/cooktour

The Future?

Alert Bay has been hurt badly by the fishery collapse. The cannery is shut and the commercial waterfront is quiet. Yet the town, especially the First Nation side, still hums with a surprising energy. As we walked around town, both young and old looked us in the eye with a welcoming smile. There was a quiet confidence, a pride. Despite the struggles and hardships, this is a community with spirit and strength. Talented leaders have helped the community navigate through adversity, and the future is blossoming here as in other First Nation villages along the coast.

If you go:

Alert Bay has good docking facilities and anchoring options, fuel, parts and repairs, as well as a laundromat, several restaurants, an excellent general store, a campsite, hotels and ferry service to Sointula on Malcolm Island, as well as Telegraph Cove and Port MacNeill on Vancouver Island.

Alert Bay Campground, at the crest of the island, about a mile of winding road and trail above the town. Showers are available at the Alert Bay Campground (250-974-5024) and the Bayside Inn (250-974-5858).

A good laundromat/cafe/washroom/pool room is located opposite the head of the ferry dock, open 7 am to 7 pm daily. Ph: 250-974-5477.

U'mista Cultural Centre: PO Box 253, Alert Bay, BCV0N 1A0. Ph: 250-974-5403. Fax: 250-974-5499.