Freeing the Kayak Chef Within

December 1999 - January 2000

This is an article from WaveLength Magazine, available in print in North America and globally on the web.

by Peter Allan

I have cooked in some of the finest kitchens in the world most of them outside. For me , a kayak expedition is a grand opportunity to prepare extraordinary food in a pristine wilderness far from the distraction of phones and fax machines. As a kayak guide I know from experience that the vessel of choice allows not only all manner of fresh food and refreshment to be carried, but also much in the way of creature comforts can be borne. We bring it all, it all fits and we have never left anything behind; because we believe that comfort is second only to safety. What follows are some notes from my cooking seminar handouts that I like to name' Axioms to Ponder'.

"KAYAKERS PADDLE ON THEIR STOMACHS"

Think bigger portions and calories between 2000 and 4000 burned off per day. To avoid 'bonking' on the water, think SNACKS for between meals and carry fruit, candy, classic gorp or granola bars IN YOUR COCKPIT. AT the beach at the end of a big paddling day be ready to prepare in a flash a simple appetizer. Like braised fruit with balsamico on foccacia. 'Variety is the spice of Kayak cookery'. A healthy diet is a varied one you will cover all your nutritional needs with a good assortment of foods. I like to think of the menu as a basic plan essentially a list of the ingredients upon which to play wonderful improvisations. Let's not do pasta 4 days in a row: think polenta, risotto, potato latkes.

"IT'S IN THE BAG"

Evolve a compact spice/herb/condiment bag with a system for organizing that you like (i.e. Zip locks, nalgene, bottles), and make it comprehensive and zany). A soft sided camera bag works well and the shoulder strap allows it to hang. Include airline size mini liquor bottles marsala, port, sherry, Madeira, brandy, ouzo. Get ethnic spices and herbs you have never even heard of and search for the best olive oils, specialty vinegars, hot sauces and curries you can afford. ADD: star anise, assorted quality nuts, dried cherries, cranberries and tomatoes, capers, Indian pickles, nutmeg, and herbs from your garden {rosemary, thyme, oregano, fennel and arugula are a must}

"TOOLS OF THE GLADE"

Good tools, great food. Take along good knives such as a 8-10 inch chef's knife in a scabbard for prepping, real non stick pans, pepper grinder, large cutting board(s), Swedish cheese knife, melon batter, zester - give up prepping a four course meal with your Swiss Army knife!

"SHOP BENEATH YOUR BOAT"

In season and with a license, harvest fish (cod, salmon), crab, clams, mussels, oysters, limpets, sea urchins, sea weed, sea lettuce, glasswort. Don't forget about wild blue berries, black berries and salmon berries. In many watery comers of the world the wily kayaker will buy from local fishers.

"WE EAT WITH OUR EYES"

Push the visual possibilities: fresh herbs, flowers, sliced fruit, olives, nuts, wild sprigs, or shells on china plates (why eat off plastic or in a 4 inch stainless bowl?) Take table cloth or multi purpose sarong and make found object centerpieces. If you like wine slip a real glass into a metal tennis ball container and bring it along.

"PUSH THE POSSIBILITIES"

Visual possibilities as mentioned plus creative combinations i.e. Crab cakes with pesto sauce, cabernet risotto instead of rice surprise, mussels on sourdough toast points with caramelized shallots and warm cranberry lime sauce, hammered breast of chicken stuffed with gypsy salami, endive and gorgonzola (stretch this cheese with cream cheese)

"THINK THE FOUR S's - STEAM, SAUTE, SAUCES, & STUFF"

Steam - small amount of water , boil, set aside to steam. Or wet roast, Italian style, on stove top with very little water in heavy skillet.

Saute - lightly oiled pan, toss - cook until slightly browned but still firm. Extreme Sauteing i.e. Blackening of peppers, tomatoes, feta at high heat also for warm salads during fall paddle trips.

Sauces - cranberry, chipotte, ginger, pesto, gorgonzola, etc.

Stuff fish, boned mast, omelets pita, peppers, potatoes. Think of stuffing with: olives, croutons, capers, sauerkraut feta, and sundried tomatoes ....

"KNOW YOUR PANTRY"

Spread the food around and keep track for easy access. Consider labeling bags to aid in quick food location. "Cans are alt in the center of the Yellow Double". 'Bread in the front hatch of the G.T." etc. Spread food to every paddler.

"WATER-TAKE ALL YOU NEED"

Stay welt hydrated so drink before you're thirsty. Allow for 3 litres per person per day. This will be enough for drinking, cooking, coffee, etc. Cook where possible with some salt water.

"GEAR IS GOOD, GET MORE GEAR"

Not for the sake of acquisitiveness but do bring Chair kits, cooler bails, parmesan shaker, etc. Things to make living in the outdoors more comfortable such as head lamps, kitchen fly, candle lantems (campfire days are gone).

"XENO IS KEEN-O"

Think foreign: Mexican, sushi, fondue, Indian, Thai, etc.

A kayak adventure is a chance to experiment with National foods. "Serving it Right". Always maintain exquisitely clean kitchen, utensils, hands. Boil fresh/ salt water for a hot wash to ensure clean cooking and eating environment. Take tiny bottle of bleach and use judiciously.

"RIPEN EN ROUTE"

Carefully select fruit and vegetables with range of ripeness or firmness so they are perfect when needed Keep track of their state-you may have to use them a day or two earlier. You will develop skill at this and also in shopping for proper proportions.

"MUSICA"

Now don' t get me wrong: I do not take a ghetto blaster to blast the beach. However, as I spend a tot of enjoyable rime in front of two humors, a little music played on a walkman with small water proof speakers enhances my experience when timely. Many super meals in staggeringly beautiful surroundings have been rendered transcendental with Glenn Gould playing Bach or Chet Baker's mournful sound.

Increasingly, great food and paddle sports are becoming synonymous. Out there we are closer to Mother earth, with our bare feet upon a kitchen floor of sand. Let us together pledge to get out in Nature more often, to cook outrageous food when we are there, and share left overs with fellow paddlers who are still cooking macaroni from a can in a thrift shop aluminum pot.

Peter Allan is a co-owner of Saltspring Kayaking: Ph./Fax250-653-4222 located at 2923 Fudford-Ganges Rd. SaltSpring Island, BC V8K 1X6. Peter and Bruce Grey run a variety of trips including the Gulf Islands, Italy and Baja, and offer special events like a couples workshop with a kayak component.