Aboriginal Ecotourism

October-November 1999

This is an article from WaveLength Magazine, available in print in North America and globally on the web

by Rajé Harwood

The U'Mista Cultural Centre in Alert Bay Photo Alan Wilson

Earlier this year a conference on ecotourism was held in Alert Bay, BC to discuss some of the pportunities and challenges presented to First Nations by the growing number of eco-tourists interested in aboriginal culture as part of their vacation experience. As a representative of WaveLength, I was privileged to attend

From the moment of our arrival, my friend and I were overwhelmed by wondrous hospitality. Spread on tables in the spacious gym of the new school was a feast of crab legs, salmon, potatoes, fresh bread, salads, and rejuvenating oolichan oil. It reminded me of a book which details the history of the Sewid family, called 'Guests Never Leave Hungry'.

Following the feast, thanks was addressed to the family who had cooked, and a welcome was given in the form of dances by the children, with their elders singing and drumming. We enjoyed performances of Wolf Dance followed by Cedar Dance, then Eagle Down and Peace Dance. The occasion was one to honor the pride, self-esteem and the rich traditions of these people and the future of the children.

A slide show and speech by Frank Brown of Sea Quest Adventures in Bella Bella pointed out the opportunities for receiving guests and income from all over the world. He stressed the importance of finding ways that benefit whole communities (in their case providing employment and the financing for a traditional Big House for their family clan) and that do not compromise, and that may help traditional ways survive. It was obvious that aboriginal people have a lot to offer, sharing their stories related to land, sea and ancestors, and that it can happen naturally through small scale operations that are initiated by and employ local people.

The following day's presentations addressed a number of topics: how aboriginal peoples have suffered due to past tourism fiascoes, issues of ecology and the current concern around the disappearance of traditional clam beds. Already taxed by resource extraction, would remaining wild places be further harmed by increased visitors? The example of how Mamalilikala on Village Island in the Broughton Archipelago found a solution to tourist traffic was celebrated. At Mamalilikala, permission to land from the band must be given ahead of time and a small fee is required upon arrival, with a short tour of the site by a First Nations guide.

The conference concluded that there is strong potential for a viable aboriginal ecotourism industry.

In May, the rebuilt Big House at Alert Bay officially opened. There were thousands of visitors, including many First Nations guests arriving and departing in carved long canoes.

In August, members of the 'Namgis First Nation of Alert Bay followed one of several old routes to the west coast of Vancouver Island, to participate in a potlatch and canoe gathering hosted by the Ahousat people in Clayoquot Sound.

Among the many treasures the 'Namgis carried was oolichan oil. Their historic route was called the 'Grease Trail' after the valuable oolichan oil which was used for trade and gifts among First Nations peoples for thousands of years.

Each year more canoes are carved in traditional way, and more journeys taken, honoring the traditional way of travel on this coast, giving renewed hope to the elders that their culture will survive. Through the ecotourism industry, we can look to more First Nation guides, and joint-venturing in a way that is respectful to land, as well as to the Elders and their wisdom.

The Feb/Mar issue of WaveLength will feature Native Cultural Ecotourism and we invite contributions by December 30th.

Rajé Harwood is a distributor/representative for WaveLength and lives on Hornby Island, BC