Ocean Spelunking: Santa Cruz Island, California

June-July 1999

This is an article from WaveLength Magazine, available in print in North America and globally on the web

by Chuck Graham

Imagine crossing a treacherous channel in the Pacific Ocean with currents swirling every which way in unpredictable weather conditions.

That's what the Chumash Indians had to contend with for thousands of years back in the Pleistocene Age in their tomols (canoes).

I tried to envision this risky business of channel crossing while we made our way to Santa Cruz Island, 25 miles off the coast of Santa Barbara, California. I sat comfortably in a 60 foot vessel, but once we anchored at the Scorpion Anchorage on the southeastern end of the island, I jumped in my kayak and paddled the rugged and craggy coastline of the largest island in the Channel Islands archipelago.

Santa Cruz is home to a unique blend of flora and fauna, and sea caves. Endemic species such as the scrub jay and island fox live here, and can be seen nowhere else in the world. There are also sea caves which are a haven for sea lions, harbor seals, western gulls, and American oystercatchers. There are over 300 sea caves of 150 feet or more. Hiking is one way to experience their natural wonder, but paddling a kayak to explore the steep, wavecut cliffs, remote sandy beaches, and the myriad of caves is the best way to go.

After quickly plopping into my boat I paddled to the northwest. On a clear day you can see the Santa Ynez Mountains hovering over the coast on the mainland. Some of the caves are gaping holes with two entrances. The first "hole in the wall" is affectionately known as "Marge" in resemblance of Marge Simpson, from the infamous cartoon show "The Simpsons". Once I got on a straight line with "Marge" the image was clear: big hair, and the distinctive facial outline.

The ocean was calm on this day with a slight sea breeze out of the northwest, Western gulls were busily combing the cliffs foraging for food to feed their fuzzy and hungry chicks, and curious harbor seals poked their heads out of the crystal clear water, and then slapped a black flipper on the surface in a playful display.

Gateway to adventure, but watch your head!

As I made my way around the next towering, rocky point, I caught a glimpse of my first cave. I watched several kayakers negotiate the surging tides to enter and exit the black cavern. My life vest was already on. My helmet came on next along with my headlamp. This cave is known as "Flatliner" and I immediately found out why. With the high tide surging inward, a swell picked me up and nearly pinned me up on the jagged ceiling. I laid on my back as I nearly kissed the roof of the cave, then smoothly came back down. Deeper in the perpetual darkness I came upon a cobblestone laden beach. Several harbor seals were relaxing on the damp rocks and made no motion to head for the water. I didn't want to stress the plump pinnipeds, so I turned around and headed for the light.

The next stop I made was Cavern Point. It has a enormous cave, the mouth reaching 40 feet to the ceiling. It has a large rocky beach at the end of the cave where sea lions let out wailing bellows which can be heard beyond the entrance of the cave.

Taking a southerly direction, I paddled for Scorpion Rock which juts out of the water five miles away. As I ran into "Marge" again, a woman kayaker tried to slither through the extremely narrow gap. The surge of water slammed her into the wall of the cave toppling her inside. Fortunately she had a helmet on. . I grabbed hold of her and pulled her out of the narrow opening. Her kayak washed out with the next wave. She was shaken but not beaten, and I watched her on a second attempt as she correctly anticipated the surging ocean and slipped through "Marge" unscathed.

With the wind and the current at my back, I paddled easily to Scorpion Rock. The tide was peaking when I paddled in the entrance. The sun was hitting the turquoise blue water just right. The sun's rays created a glowing bright light and the inside of the cave resembled the color of an indoor swimming pool.

When I made my exit, a pair of American oystercatchers flew off in front of me. They breed on the island and their bright orange beaks stand out on the rugged shore as they search for mussels, crabs, and oysters.

After refueling, I paddled for Painted Cave which some say is the largest sea cave in the world. This 1200 ft. long cavern rests on a fault and a lava tube. The ceiling rises to 250 feet. Growing on the walls at the entrance of the cave are succulent plants. The dark blue water reaches a depth of 25 feet and it has four separate chambers.It has two right turns and two left turns where it eventually ends at a cobblestone beach. I could make out the glowing eyes of several sea lions, those clowns of the sea, at the beach with my headlamp. As soon as I saw them they dove into the black water not to be see again.

Close to the mainland, yet worlds apart, Santa Cruz Island will take you back in time, to a California before freeways and skyscrapers infiltrated the native environment. It's good to know that some places can still be explored in serenity.

To venture out to the islands contact Island Packers at 1867 Spinnaker Drive, Ventura, Ca 93001, or call (805) 642-1393.
Chuck Graham lines in Carpinteria, California.©