The Columbia: Mothership

June-July 1999

This is an article from WaveLength Magazine, available in print in North America and globally on the web

by Cathy Converse

Like others, I find the frenetic pace of daily living leaves me drained physically, mentally and spiritually. For sanity's sake it is essential that I stop every once in awhile to re-charge by batteries.

Launching kayaks from the Columbia

When I was younger I would have taken off with my kayak, tent and sleeping bag to paddle among the multitude of islands, large and small, that punctuate the majestic inlets and quiet bays of the BC coast. More recently I have come to realize that I have reached the stage in my life where I do not relish setting up tents or sleeping on rocky terrain. I like my hot showers after a day's kayaking and I love curling up in front of a fireplace with a good book after an evening meal. Luckily for me, Mothership Adventures offers all of that and more. It is a sea kayaking experience of a lifetime and, most importantly, a real holiday.

Jeanette Young, another mothership enthusiast agrees. Speaking as someone who has experienced both wilderness kayaking and mothership kayaking, Young feels that she too enjoys the advantages that a mothership type of adventure brings. "One of the things I really like," she says, "is that you are not restricted in terms of area. The mothership takes you into places that you would not normally be able to get to, either because of distance or lack of suitable camping sites. Also, because you are fresh from a good night sleep and free from the necessary chores of packing up your camp site, your days are fuller and you are free to do a lot more exploring."

Bill McKechnie's 1956 built, 20 meter Columbia sets the tone for the trip. Columbia is a solid well designed west coast boat that retains a beauty and charm not often seen in today's vessels. McKechnie has completely refurbished the Columbia with great attention to detail and with an eye for passenger enjoyment. There are a variety of comfortable berths for a single person and couples with five private cabins. From the well equipped galley McKechnie turns out "5-star" west coast meals and, for the reading enthusiast, the library houses books about local interests from Rhinoceros Auklets, to First Nations history, to local flora and fauna.

"Columbia is a magnificent boat," Young explains. "The wood interior, decorated with a west coast motif and leather sofas really add to the luxury of the trip. There is nothing quite like getting up in the morning, having someone hand you a cup of tea or coffee, and walking out to the after deck to enjoy a peaceful moment watching a bear ambling along the beach looking for her morning meal. You have all of the joy of the wilderness and all the benefits of home."

One of the other perks of a mothership is never having to retrace your course. In the mornings after breakfast we would get into our kayaks and start our journey while the Columbia pulled up anchor and headed to our next destination. Most of the kayaks are doubles designed by Necky and I found them to be safe, fast and stable. Sharon Comeau, the head kayaking guide, is extremely knowledgeable and helpful and provides instruction for those who have never been in a kayak. She has planned day trips which are suitable for both novice and experienced paddlers. What I appreciated is the fact that you could paddle at your own pace. Somehow Comeau kept us all together without anyone feeling pushed or that they were being held back. Safety is of utmost concern and Comeau makes sure that we paddle with the tide and current. Both McKechnie and Comeau are certified small craft Masters. Columbia is always within radio range of the guides and is available in the unlikely event of an emergency.

Many of the sites chosen for the kayaking adventures offer pristine areas, in beautiful inlets and quiet little coves which are inaccessible except by boat. There were no great expanses of ocean to cross nor boat traffic to avoid. I felt more a part of nature than I ever had before. And of course there was always a chance to kayak around the anchorage in the evening if you wished.

In addition to the kayaking there are all of the interesting side trips; a visit to a fish farm, a climb up to Eagle's Eye, the whale researchers' lair that overlooks the whale reserve at Robson Bight, a talk by Tom Sewid, the First Nations guardian at Mamalilaculla, on the history of the Kwakwala speakers, watching the seine boats haul in their nets loaded with salmon and seeing the magnificent Orcas in their natural environment.

Coming from a background of whitewater kayaking and solo ocean paddling, and used to the thrill and challenge borne of my own effort, I found the mothership concept a welcome adventure. I would highly recommend this trip to anyone who is looking for a good vacation, enjoys getting into unspoiled areas and likes to kayak in comfort and safety.

A passage in Columbia's log book written by a kayaker from Wenatchee, Washington sums up the cruise: "A wonderful experience full of exhilarating moments like having a pod of orcas pass through our group of kayaks, sighting bald eagles, watching a black bear checking rocks for a snack, spotting river otters and sea lions, telling stories, enjoying tranquil moments and dining on fabulous food!"

Getting there is easy. The Columbia departs from Port McNeill late Sunday afternoons and the trip lasts 6 days and 6 nights. Comeau and McKechnie take care of every detail of your arrival. The driving time from Nanaimo to Port NcNeill is approximately five hours. If you prefer to come by air the Pacific Coastal Airlines has four flights a day from Vancouver to Port Hardy and a taxi or shuttlebus is available for the 20 minute drive to Port NcNeill. Kenmore Air has daily float plane service from downtown Seattle to Port McNeill Harbour.

Contact the Columbia toll free at 1-888833-8887.

Cathy Converse is a freelance writer©

For further articles on Mothership Kayaking go to the April/May 1998 Issue of Wavelength Paddling Magazine