Gulf Island Bed & Breakfast Tour

June-July 1998

This is an article from WaveLength Magazine, available in print in North America and globally on the web.

by Kathryn Gardner

Tired of camping? Looking for a change of pace during your sea-kayaking voyage? Perhaps you'd like to celebrate a special occasion in style? Well, why not bed down for the night in a Bed and Breakfast-just think: comfy bed, hot showers, someone else to cook breakfast. Ahh, there may just be something to this idea. Here is some information about B&B's in the Southern Gulf Islands to get you started. This list is by no means comprehensive. Accommodations have been selected based on accessibility by kayak, variety of styles and price ranges, and in some cases the accommodations are the only choices available. We highly recommend making reservations in advance for all of the B&B's and Inns listed.

SALT SPRING ISLAND

With 185 square km., and a population of close to 10,000, Saltspring is the largest island and offers the most diverse selection of accommodations and services. Paddlers can easily accomplish several day trips while staying at one B&B. "There is so much to do on Saltspring," says Olive Layard, proprietor of Kitchener House. After paddling, you may enjoy some local entertainment, check out the artisans' shops or dine out.

Tourist Information: Salt Spring Island Visitor Information Centre, 121 Fulford-Ganges Road, Box 111, Ganges, BC V0S 1E0. Phone: 250/537-5252 Fax: 250/537-4276

Land Transportation: Silver Shadow Taxi: 537-3030. Heritage Car Rentals: 250/537-4225

Restaurants: All proprietors describe their breakfasts as bountiful with plenty of variety: fruit, yogurt, baked goods, hot entrees to order. In most cases, food allergies and preferences can be accommodated. There are too many restaurants to name here but you will find a variety of establishments in the Town of Ganges, Fulford and Vesuvius Ferry Terminals, and selected restaurants around the Island.

Summer Special Events: June to September-Artcraft Show and Sale; June - Sea Capers Festival; July-Canada Day Celebration, House Tour '98, Festival of the Arts; August-Fulford Days, Summer Flower Show; September-Fall Fair, Annual Sale and exhibition of contemporary clayworks, Terry Fox Run, Weekly Saturday a.m. market in Centennial Square.

Bed & Breakfasts:

1. KITCHENER HOUSE

166 Booth Road, Salt Spring Island, BC V8K 2M8 Phone: 250/537-9879. Double-$85, Single-$55, Twin-$75. 5-6 person capacity (minimum 2 night stay on weekends), self-contained Cabin sleeps 4 -$130/day, min. 3 night stay. Casual and friendly, hostess Olive Layard welcomes "sea people" into her home. A long time sailor, Olive is eager to share her wealth of information with paddlers. Located in the shelter of Booth Inlet, landing and launching from Kitchener House is relatively easy at high tide. Low tide reveals an expanse of mud that is difficult to maneuver in. There is a mild rip coming into the inlet at peak current and a useful back eddy during the ebb tide on the paddler's left as you enter the inlet. If you miss high tide on departure, launching is possible from a nearby public beach access. Lots of secure boat storage is available. One of the three guestrooms in the main house must share bathroom facilities with the hostess. The gardens have been featured in Gardens West. Vehicle storage may be possible if paddlers begin and end their trip at Kitchener House. More Info

2. STONECUTTER'S REST

170 Simson Rd. Salt Spring Island, BC V8K 1E2 Phone: 250/537-4415. Fax: 250/ 537-4462. E-mail: stonecuttersrest @saltspring.com Double-$85, Single-$75, young children-$20. 6 person capacity, self-contained cottage to be completed this summer, sleeps 4-$200/night. Situated approximately 200ft. above quiet Stonecutters Bay, this B&B commands an outstanding view of Stuart Channel and Vancouver Island. Owner, Christopher Gosset describes the nearby kayaking as "a piece of cake". Land and launch at the generously sized smooth rock shoreline or at a sandy beach at low tide. A low-grade switch-back track leads up to the house. Plenty of secure kayak storage. Two kayaks also available for rent. Each of the three guestrooms has a private balcony and shares a common sitting area. There are also two small resident dogs - Molly and Biggly. Wheelchair accessible. More Info

3. WATER'S EDGE

327 Price Rd. Salt Spring Island, BC V8K 2E9 Phone: (250) 537-5807 Fax: (250) 537-2862. Double occupancy $115-$135 Water's Edge boasts one of the better locations for landing and launching. Situated on the west shore of Ganges Harbour, there is a large, sloping beach - sandy or muddy at low tide, rocky at high tide - when the beach becomes considerably more cramped. Watch for a multitude of powered and sailboats in this high traffic area. "There is no television by design," boasts hostess Helen Tara who encourages birdwatching and nature appreciation. Birds, particularly quail, are encouraged onto the property. The two separate bedroom suites share a common sitting and kitchen area with a fridge, microwave, and electric coffee maker. There is one resident cat. More Info

4. BEACH HOUSE

369 Isabella Pt. Road, Salt Spring Island, BC V8K 1V4 Phone: 250/653-2040 Fax: 250/653-9711 Double occupancy rates $115-$140 (changes seasonally). Third adult travelling with a couple-$50. Self-contained suite-$120 double occupancy, additional person-$15 Ellie Thorburn spoils her guests with an outdoor hot tub, one in-room jacuzzi, private entrances, patio and sitting room. Located near the heart of Fulford Harbour, kayakers should find landing on the pebbly beach uneventful at high tide, however, low tide can produce up to 40 meters of mud between the water and the beach. Watch for frequent ferry traffic and pleasure craft. The home is tastefully decorated and luxurious however it is in close proximity to the rural road and neighboring houses. The Fulford Inn is within easy walking distance and provides a family restaurant and a pub. More Info

Other Possibilities:

BOLD BLUFF RETREAT: Self-contained cabins located on the southwest coast in Samsun Narrows. Accessible by water or air only. Phone: 250/653-4377

ANCHORAGE COVE: Located in the hub of Ganges Harbour. Phone: 250/537-5337

HALE'S HAVEN: Easy access in Long Harbour. Phone: 250/537-1031

NORTH AND SOUTH PENDER ISLANDS

The Pender Islands, totaling 34 sq. km, are separated by a narrow channel but connected by a one-lane bridge. The bulk of the 1,500 permanent residents live on the North island where there has also been increased residential and commercial development in recent years. South Pender is comprised mainly of farmland, forest and parks. The Penders' colourful history tells intriguing tales of rumrunners, thieves and bizarre murders.

Tourist Information: Tourism Association of Vancouver Island, 302-45 Bastion Square, Victoria, BC V8W 1J1 Phone: 250/382-3551 Fax: 250/382-3523

Land Transportation: Pender Island Taxi: 629-9900

Summer Special Events: Home and Garden Tour, Art Show

Restaurants: A total of 8 (cafes, pubs or restaurants) are located on the North Island.

Bed & Breakfasts:

5. WHALEPOINTE

9929 Southlands Dr., RR3, South Pender Island, BC V0N 2M3. Phone: 250/629-6155. Double-$65 to $75, Single-$55, Third sharing-$25. Maximum capacity - 6 people. Whalepointe is the only B&B located on South Pender (at the time of writing). Paddlers must look out for currents, ferry traffic and pleasure boaters when navigating through Swanson Channel and Haro Strait. Land at a pebble beach approximately 100 meters west of Whalepointe. A two-minute walk along a footpath leads to the B&B. Safe kayak storage is available on the grass above the beach or at Whalepointe. Joy McAughtrie has created two country guestrooms in a cabin at the back of her property that include a kettle and beverage supplies, shared shower facilities, and a simple toilet located outside. Breakfasts are served on the sunny deck of the main house overlooking Haro Strait and the San Juan Islands. Orca sightings are frequent enough to be described as "common".

6. BEAUTY REST BY THE SEA

1301 Mackinnon Road, Pender Island, BC V0N 2M1. Phone: 250/629-3855. Double-$120 to $125. Maximum capacity is 6. Three acres of waterfront on James Point provide sweeping panoramas north, west and south. There is a small cove, similar to a tiny "canoe run" where two kayaks could easily land on a flat pebble beach at low tide. High tide will make the landing somewhat more difficult as paddlers will need to step over larger rocks onto a small wooden platform approximately 4' X 6'. Hazards in Swanson Channel include rip tides, large ferry swells and potentially rough water. Close examination of tide and current tables, and charts of the area is recommended. Barry and Jean Lynd have designed two guestrooms with an adjacent shared sitting and T.V. room. A third suite contains a bed, sofa bed, microwave, coffee maker and fridge. There is a resident cat and a poodle. More Info

7. CAMELOT-BY-THE-SEA

1215 Otter Bay Road, Pender Island, BC V0N 2M1 Phone: 250/629-3770 Double-$95 Single-$85 NOTE: breakfast supplies are available in rooms but must be prepared by guests. The hosts clean up dishes. Landings will be easy on the large, secluded, private beach located in sheltered Grimmer Bay, near Port Washington. The size of the rocky beach will be significantly reduced during high tide but there is room enough for comfortable landing and launching. Safe kayak storage is available on racks on the beach or on the lawn of the main grounds. Gordon and Patricia Barnes have created a romantic storybook atmosphere at their Pender Island Home. Enjoy the self-contained suite in Sir Lancelot's Quarters or sweeping views from King Arthur's suite. Sir Galihad, the standard poodle, may saunter by as you swing in the romantic garden swing.

Other Possibilities:

Gulf Island Guest Cabin: waterfront launch, guided paddles, pickup from ferry or plane. Phone: 604/228-8079.

SATURNA ISLAND

Saturna Island is 31 sq. km with a permanent population of about 290. The BC Ferry schedule makes it more difficult to reach, causing the island to be one of the least visited; this accompanied by the many protected bays and calm channels make Saturna an ideal destination for kayakers. There are no campsites on the island.

Tourist Information: Tourism Association of Vancouver Island, 302-45 Bastion Square, Victoria, BC V8W 1J1 Phone: 250/382-3551 Fax: 250/382-3523

Land Transportation: May be arranged with hosts of your accommodation. Inquire in advance.

Summer Special Events: July 1st -Lamb Barbecue (a tradition since 1950). May and November long weekends-pig barbecue

Restaurants: meals available at the pub near the ferry terminal in Lyall Harbour, at the local bakery, Saturna Lodge and other local establishments.

Bed & Breakfasts:

8. SATURNA LODGE

130 Payne Road, Saturna Island, BC V0N 2Y0. Phone: 1-888-539-8800 or 250/539-2254. Fax: 250/539-3091 Rates range from $80 to $140 with average of $120 double occupancy. Includes breakfast. Located on the inside tip of Boot Cove, the lodge is easily accessible by kayak during all but the lowest tides when the Lodge's long dock cannot be reached. Paddlers could take out at the ferry terminal and phone the lodge for a pick up. Kayaks can be stored on a deck above the dock. The lodge has seven rooms, a restaurant and a vineyard. Kayak rentals can be arranged through he lodge - rates vary. More Info

Other Possibilities:

BREEZY BAY BED & BREAKFAST: Located at Breezy Bay. Phone: 250/539-5957. Fax: 250/ 539-3339 More Info:

MAYNE ISLAND

Twenty-one square kilometers, about 850 residents and a busy transfer point for BC Ferries makes Mayne Island one of the busier places to visit. Historically, Mayne was a stopover point for miners travelling between Victoria and the lower mainland, it was the first area where apples were grown in BC and is the site of a jail built in 1894. Its history has provided Mayne with many Inns and B&B's, unfortunately, very few are accessible by kayak.

Tourist Information: Mayne Island Community Chamber of Commerce, Mayne Island, BC V0N 2J0

Land Transportation: Mayne Island Taxi: 539-3439

Summer Special Events: July 1st-Community Picnic; August -Springwater and Mayne Mast Salmon Derby, Fall Fair; September -Lions Club Salmon Bake. Year round-Mayne Island Little Theatre

Restaurants: Three to four choices in Miner's Bay Village (there is no village at the Village Bay ferry terminal), several restaurants dotted around the island.

Bed & Breakfasts:

9. MAYNE INN

C-13 Bennett Bay, Mayne Island, BC V0N 2J0 Phone: 250/539-3122. Fax: 250/539-5119. Double - $70 Tucked into the sheltered heart of Bennet Bay, the Mayne Inn is easily accessible. There is a float at the end of a 250-foot dock where kayakers could land. There is also a pebble beach but the embankment is quite steep. Safe kayak storage is available on the dock or on the large front lawn of the inn. About 300 meters north along the beach there is a public access point. There is also plenty of space to wash and dry out gear. The Inn has eight rooms, a hot tub, dining room and lounge. It is, predictably, quite busy during the summer. More Info

10. BAYVIEW BED AND BREAKFAST

764 Steward Drive, Mayne Island, BC V0N 2J0 Phone: 1-800-376-2115 or 250/539-2924. Fax: 250/539-2918 Double - $75 to $85 Single-$65-$75 135 steep steps up from the beach at Horton Bay, this three room B&B is relaxed and informal. Horton Bay is sheltered, however it is the site of a government wharf and moorage for many sail and powerboats-in a nutshell, it is busy. The beach is landable but is comprised of sharp sandstone, and slippery muck. It is possible to land at Bayview's dock (look for dark green dock and staircase opposite the government wharf). There is minimal space to store kayaks down near the beach. Rooms are equipped with coffee maker, kettle and supplies. An outdoor hot tub looks out over Horton Bay. Properties on the ridge are narrow; consequently neighbouring homes are in close proximity. Don and Linda Rose are the hosts and they have one dog and two cats in residence. More Info

11. OCEANWOOD COUNTRY INN

630 Dinner Bay Road, Mayne Island, BC V0N 2J0 Phone: 250/ 539-5074. Fax: 250/539-3002 E-mail: oceanwood@gulfislands.com Rates: $130-$295 or off-season $95-$250. Fine dining and luxurious accommodations are what the Oceanwood is all about. Set in the privacy of Dinner Bay. The beach is calm and sheltered but is strewn with large rough rocks that make for uneven footing at any tide. Watch for ferry traffic, fishing boats and pleasure craft in Navy Channel. A steep staircase leads up to the Inn. Hosts Jonathan and Marilyn Chilvers invite you to enjoy their outdoor hot tub, in-room jacuzzis, dining room, lounge, and library. More Info

Other Possibilities:

TINKERERS BED & BREAKFAST: located in busy Active Pass with limited to no beach to land at high tide. Government wharf at Miner's Bay is within 300 meters of the B&B. Phone: 250/539-2280 More Info

Blue Vista Cottages: fully equipped housekeeping cottages, within two-minute drive of sandy put-in. Phone: 250/539-2463. More Info

GALIANO ISLAND

At 57 square km Galiano is more than double the area of Mayne Island with more or less the same population. It is one of the least developed islands and has the most difficult accessibility. The west coast is made up of primarily steep bluffs and the gentler grades of the east coast are exposed to the Strait of Georgia. Never-the-less, Galiano is one of the most beautiful and serene places to visit in the Southern Gulf Islands.

Tourist Information: Galiano Chamber of Commerce, Box 73, Galiano Island, BC V0N 1P0 Phone (250) 539-2233

Land Transportation: Go Galiano Shuttle and Taxi Service - 539-0202, Hummingbird Pub offers bus shuttle between Montague Harbour and the Pub.

Summer Special Events: unavailable at the time of printing.

Bed & Breakfasts: Most of the waterfront accommodations on Galiano come in the form of self-contained cottages or cabins.

12. THE CLIFFHOUSE

45-90 Serenity Lane, Galiano Island, BC V0N 1P0 Phone: 250 539-5239. Self-contained cabin sleeps 4 people. Summer rate-$110/night, winter rate-$96/night. The loveliest of funky places, this unique cabin is set 30 feet above Trincomali Channel, about half way between Montague Harbour and Retreat Cove. Hosted by Dan Christian and Kim Fisher, the Cliffhouse has an outdoor shower, in-room bathtub, a "sweat-lodge", and kayak rentals. At zero tide there is a sandy beach to land on but high tide makes landing tricky. There is a wooden platform but be careful around the boulders surrounding the platform. There is safe kayak storage on racks or the embankment. Trincomali Channel is a popular thoroughfare for all types of boat traffic. Strong winds are always possible. There is one resident dog. More Info

13. SUTIL LODGE

637 Southwind Dr., Galiano Island, BC V0N 1P0 Phone: 1-888-539-2930 or 250/539-5390. Fax: 250/539-5390 E-mail: reservations @gulfislands.com Double occupancy - $75 to $95 Located in popular Montague Harbour, Sutil Lodge is a convenient and easily accessible stopover. The beach provides easy landing and launching except at high tide when there is little room between the waters edge and bushes. Kayak tours and rentals are available. The main house was originally built in 1927 and has kept much of its charm. Nearby, the Montague Harbour Marina provides a café, gift shop and supplies. The harbour is another busy spot during the summer. More Info