Gabriola Island, B.C.

June-July 1998

This is an article from WaveLength Magazine, available in print in North America and globally on the web.

by Alan Wilson

Weathered sandstone cliffs of Gabriola

From afar, Gabriola Island is just a dot of rock and trees in Georgia Strait, lying sheltered from the Pacific Ocean by the three hundred mile length of Vancouver Island. Named by Spanish explorers, Gabriola is the most northern of the contiguous Gulf Islands, a chain stretching south to Valdez, Galiano, Saltspring, Mayne, Saturna, the Penders and a host of other smaller islands.

Some 4000 Gabriolans live among the trees and along the rocky shoreline of this 25 square mile island. The population is double what it was 20 years ago, as many have come from around the world or nearby cities to find a quieter lifestyle, or retire, and build a livable community.

Many younger folks work in nearby Nanaimo which is just a 20-minute ferry ride away on Vancouver Island. The ferry is something of an inconvenience, but it's one of the places that Islanders do their socializing.

In recent years the Island's growing population has begun to support more services and diversified its economy, providing jobs for an increasing number of Islanders. The new Folklife Village Mall and supermarket, the Haven By-the-Sea seminar centre, restaurants, a flourishing arts and crafts sector, garden centres, book stores, newspapers, health food stores, doctors, a dentist office, pharmacy, all contribute to the Island economy.

The nature of islands serves as a sort of filter. It isn't for everyone but it works fine for those who are looking for an alternate lifestyle. Which is why Gabriola, like many of the Gulf Islands, has an abundance of talented people including award winning musicians, artists and writers... as well as some notable eccentrics.

There is also a dedicated volunteer corps of firefighters and ambulance attendants who provide vital assistance to Gabriolans.

The cultural life of the Island is surprisingly rich for a small community. We have our own theatre school and acting centre, as well as musical, arts and literary events such as those at Sandstone Studio (Pages Marina), readings at Raspberries Books and Beverages, new age workshops and yoga classes at Rose Crystal Yoga Studio, plus the choir, riding club, 4H, activities at the Seniors' Centre and the Community Hall, and much more.

Gabriola is not without its controversy, however. Like many small communities, political tensions have developed around land-use conflicts, and there has been a polarization of opinion exemplified by opposing views of the two newspapers on the island. As a result of islanders failing to agree on the offer by a forest company of 2000 forest acres for parkland in exchange for a new residential development, there was significant clearcutting last year.

But to our credit, the community does come together in many ways... the Saturday Market, the Recycling Center, First Night, the annual Salmon Barbeque, at Elementary School functions, the community baseball league, youth theatre productions, the annual Outhouse Race, etc.

For most of us, Gabriola really does succeed in providing the peace and quiet we hoped to achieve in settling here. And many have also found a way to make a living on-island. A good number have developed home-based businesses such as B&Bs, offering affordable accommodations to visitors. Others find work with their crafts or carpentry skills, or telecommute from their electronic cottages.

For those with cabins and summer homes, Gabriola is a summer retreat from the cities, and the island's population swells noticeably through July and August. Visitors have long flocked to enjoy the island's surrounding waters, including sheltered anchorages like Degnen Bay and Silva Bay which are well used by pleasure and commercial mariners.

Long ago Gabriola was recognized by First Nations peoples as an ideal summer camp, with rich shellfish beds and fishing grounds. They left mysterious records of their passage carved in the rocks of the island-petroglyphs-which lie hidden in the forest and on some seaside rocks. A diverse sea life sustained these people, and it is the same sea which still draws many people to the Island today.

On Oceans Day (June 8), the federal and provincial governments was scheduled to release their long-awaited joint Marine Protected Areas (MPA) strategy, along with a process for nominations for MPA's.

Gabriola Islanders are hoping that Gabriola Pass hasn't fallen between the proverbial cracks in the lengthy bureaucratic shuffle. In what seems like an interminably long process, this proposed MPA has been waiting...and waiting...

The area was first proposed as an MPA by Islanders, promoted by environmental groups, and finally won favour with government agencies at both the federal and provincial levels. However, that wasn't enough to ensure designation. Gabriola Pass has also had to go through a lengthy process to prove there is a local consensus for MPA status and to resolve outstanding concerns of the five First Nations that have a historical link with the area and underwater harvesters (both groups are loathe to give up their right to harvest the fisheries resources that the Pass offers). Meanwhile, many Islanders treat Gabriola Pass as if it were already an MPA, encouraging visitors to enjoy the area and to leave it untouched.

It isn't a huge area that's under consideration: only __ square km, stretching from Degnen Bay to Silva Bay, and taking in some of the offlying islands. But what Gabriola Pass lacks in size, it makes up for in diversity.

Fed by currents that flow up to 8 knots, the area is home to over 300 species of fish and invertebrates. With stunning views of Mount Baker and the Strait of Georgia, and the lovely Flat Top Islands just outside of Silva Bay to explore, the area is great for paddling. Just make sure you don't try to transit the narrow Pass itself when the current is flowing. Check your tide book for slack tide, and time your passage accordingly. You won't be disappointed at the beauty the area offers.

In recent years kayaking in our surrounding waters has become a favorite pastime for Islanders and visitors. It's no coincidence that WaveLength Magazine is situated on Gabriola, and that Gabriola Cycle & Kayak has become one of the major kayak touring companies on the coast, running trips summer and winter, from the Queen Charlotte Islands to Baja.

For experienced paddlers, Gabriola Cycle and Kayak offers group or multiday kayak rentals, plus guided tours and lessons. Call 250/247-8277 or book through Raspberries Bookstore and Cappuccino Bar at Folklife Village. For day rentals contact Casa Blanca Bed & Breakfast at 250/247-9824.

Kayak Launch Points

1. Descanso Bay - Right after leaving the ferry, turn right on Eastom Rd. for half kilometre to launch. Paddle south to the impressive Northumberland cliffs or north to Malaspina Galleries.
   

2. Gabriola Campground - Small fee for day parking/ launching (no charge if paying camping fee). Abundant birdlife and marine mammals around reefs. Good launch for the Northumberland cliffs or Malaspina Galleries.

3. Twin Beaches - Twin-sided sandy isthmus (quite a haul at low tide). Good launch for Malaspina Galleries or Orlebar Point.

4. The Strand - Park at the end of the Strand Rd. and launch to paddle Lock Bay, Orlebar Point and Entrance Island. Watch for turbulence on windy days.

5. Silva Bay - Put in at the head of the small bay to the north of the marinas (very muddy at low tide), by the marine ways in the Boatyard, or from the dock at Pages Marina or Silva Bay to paddle the Flat Top islands.

6. Drumbeg - Enjoy this picturesque provincial day-use park near Gabriola Pass. Paddle to the Flat Tops but watch for turbulence off the Pass and strong currents up to 8 knots.

7. Degnen Bay - Put in by the government dock to paddle this quiet bay. See if you can find the dolphin petroglyph on the sandstone shoreline at the head of the bay past the government wharf. Explore the tidal rush of Gabriola Pass, or paddle south into the quieter water inside the Gulf Island chain. (Launches 7-10 are good for camping trips to nearby Pirates Cove or Blackberry Point.)

8. Spring Beach Drive - Carry boats down a rough trail to the beach to paddle Pylades Channel and the islands south of Gabriola.

9. The Maples - Actually private land, but used for limited day parking and paddling the Mudge, Link, DeCourcy chain.

10. False Narrows - Across from Mudge Island. A good launch regardless of tide but you must watch the currents in the Narrows which run up to 5 knots. A great place to see the intertidal zone, but watch out for shelving banks on the Gabriola side and vessel traffic in the narrow navigable lane.

11. Brickyard Beach - Just north of False Narrows giving access to Northumberland Channel and the cliffs, and the sea lions which cluster on log booms near Harmac, the big pulp mill south of Nanaimo.