Destination: Soaking in Sooke

August-September 1998

This is an article from WaveLength Magazine, available in print in North America and globally on the web.

by Alan Wilson

Vancouver Island, from Victoria at the southern tip, right up to Cape Scott at the north, is a 450 kilometre (280 mile) stretch of adventure opportunity. With the west coast ocean beaches, the lakes, rivers and mountains of the rainforest, and sheltered east coast waters in Georgia Strait, there's something for every paddler... cyclist, hiker, surfer, etc.

One of the nicer days in late December

One of the special gems of Vancouver Island is Sooke, just west of Victoria (and an easy jump from the USA). Lying at the southern end of a string of west coast beaches, the Sooke area offers a get away from busy lives - and lots of recreational potential.

That's why we chose Fossil Bay Resort near Sooke for our annual pre-Christmas getaway last year. Fossil Bay Resort has a commanding view across the Strait of Juan de Fuca to the snowcapped Olympic Mountains, and is surrounded by beaches (see below).

The Resort owners emigrated from Germany and finally found just the paradise they were looking for. Now they own and manage a flock of cottages which accommodate guests from around the world.

The spotless, fully-equipped modern cottages even have individual hot tubs so you can soak your limbs while gazing out on the rolling seas, the eagles, or the occasional passing whale, whatever the weather.

For adventure you can paddle and surf at nearby Jordan River (in the waves which form off the mouth of the river), or launch at Whiffin Spit to paddle inside Sooke Basin. In calm conditions you can explore outside Sooke Harbour, past Beechey Head and East Sooke Park. For whitewater enthusiasts, the Sooke River is another option.

For cyclists and hikers, there is the Galloping Goose Trail and Juan de Fuca Trail nearby. And good summer swimming can be had in the river at the Sooke Potholes.

A number of good restaurants can be found in Sooke (Mom's Cafe, King Village Chinese Restaurant, the Sizzling Foxes Grill), or you can cook your own private meal in the fully equipped kitchenette at Fossil Bay Resort.

Even in the rainy season you can get in some great paddling and then come back to lounge in the tub, sip a glass of wino, and forget that computers were ever invented.

Fossil Bay

SANDCUT BEACH: (turn left, parking lot is 2 km from Fossil Bay). Ten minute forest trail allows access to a sand and pebble beach with lovely waterfalls and sandstone rock formations.

JORDAN RIVER: (turn left, 6 km from Fossil Bay) A small logging community with a great view of the ocean. Popular with surfers and kayakers. Picric park and small campsite.

CHINA BEACH PROVINCIAL PARK: (turn left, 10 km from Fossil Bay). A 15 minute walk through lush west coast rainforest leads to a beautiful sandy beach. A hidden waterfall can be found at the west end of the beach.

MYSTIC BEACH: (turn left, parking lot 12 km from Fossil Bay). Steep 30 minute forest trail leads to an attractive sand beach backed by sandstone cliffs with shallow caves and a waterfall.

SOMBRIO BEACH: (turn left, 28 km from Fossil Bay). This beach is popular with surfers taking advantage of the huge breakers coming in from the ocean. A winding gravel road leads to a small parking lot and ten minute walk to a sand and pebble beach.

BOTANICAL BEACH PROVINCIAL PARK: (turn left, 48 km from Fossil Bay). A ten minute walk from the parking area leads to fascinating tidal pools rich in marine life, which can be viewed at low tide. (Watch for possible high waves at the shore).

JUAN DE FUCA MARINE TRAIL: (turn left, 10 km from Fossil Bay). This is a 47 km hiking trail from China Beach to Botanical Beach near Port Renfrew. The trail offers rugged beauty, wildlife viewing and roaring surf in its course along the Pacific coastline.

FRENCH BEACH PROVINCIAL PARK: (turn right, 5 km from Fossil Bay). Easy access to sand and pebble beach. Wonderful breakers from the Pacific Ocean, tide pools, picnic tables, playground and campground. Favorite feeding spot for migrating gray whales.

Courtesy of Fossil Bay Resort