Native Cultural Kayak Tour, Quatsino Sound, B.C.

February-March 1996

This is an article from WaveLength Magazine, available in print in North America and globally on the web.

by Jerry Markus

To gain understanding and knowledge of another culture you must open your mind and heart and place yourself among the people in their natural surroundings. Two main factors make it increasingly difficult to do this among the First Nations culture. The first is the existence of misunderstanding, prejudice, and negative media in the non-Native culture. The second is that many native communities do not exist in their traditional settings or lifestyles.

Marc and Fran Jinnouchi of Port Hardy, BC arranged a special event, a four day native cultural kayak tour, which included two cultural guides (Mervin and Caleb Child), two kayak guides (Tessa and Rob Hansen), and eight very fortunate tourists. The tour was set in Quatsino Sound, the traditional lands and waters of the Quatsino people. It brought together today's realities with their history, legends, and lifestyles. The primal beauty of the landscape and the spirit of the Quatsino people still dwell in the sound, although their physical relocation may make many think otherwise.

 

Band of Many Nations

It was a busy dock the first morning in Coal Harbour. Three double and six single kayaks were packed with gear and food for twelve. A briefing was given by Tessa and Rob, and Mervin and Caleb sang a song which would be slowly passed on to us over the next four days. A light rain fell as we left the busyness of the docks behind, headed through Quatsino Narrows and pulled up on the beach of the old Quatsino Village. Fran and Marc were waiting there for us with the first of many feasts.

The old village is a remnant of what was once home for Fran, her family, and 100 other band members. We settled around a fire on which part of our smorgasbord lunch was prepared. The sky was clearing. Fran answered many questions and elaborated on the past and present of her people. Behind her were the ornate killer whale grave memorials of her mother and sister. Trees, tall weeds, and deteriorating buildings now cover this vacated village. Her monologue would echo back at us throughout this trip--n the water which she used to look across each morning from her bedroom window, at the beaches where she played, and at the seasonal food gathering sites down the sound.

We paddled away from the old village past newer buildings of more current settlers. We passed the government wharf and post office of the town of Quatsino. Ironically, it was built and is now supported by a government whose excuse to relocate hundreds of Native people was that it was expensive to provide services to the old villages. Darkness fell as the tents went up on the beach near Cleagh Creek, our first campsite. Mervin orchestrated the most magnificent cauldron of clam chowder over the fire. Laughter and conversation around the fire continued to bond the group together. In great oral tradition Mervin told legends about the histories of man and animal in this area. Our meal prayer was sung with strength by Caleb and Mervin.

Native carving used as a feast bowl for the celebration at the culmination of the trip Photo courtesy of North Island Boat , Canoe & Kayak Rentals

After a group circle stretch and a hearty breakfast we broke camp and set off in the clear water and sunshine. As we neared Mahatta Creek Caleb was singing loud and low -- his favorite pastime. The waters were calm and quiet except for the answering song of an ancient Quatsino which echoed back Caleb's song. Mahatta Creek appeared as we rounded a small rocky point. Mervin called a greeting out first in Kwakwala then in English "Chiefs of Mahatta, we are a band of many nations. Fran of Quatsino has asked us to come here and play on the beaches as she did as a child. We ask your permission to stand on your shores. Gilakasla. All my relations." An eagle rushed out in front of us and salmon leaped as if something inspired their welcoming gestures. The silence of being on the water together with Caleb's songs, Mervin's greeting, the wildlife and the scenery brought alive the sense of how this place existed for thousands of years.

Our next camp was at-ya-kum-la, an old seasonal food gathering village near Winter Harbour. The importance of each person in our group became very evident as we would set up camp. Secret friends were chosen before we left old Quatsino Village. Because of the many things everyone was doing for one another it was difficult to determine who's secret friend was who! Salmon was barbecued to perfection using a traditional cedar frame. We were all in awe of Rob's ability to create fresh baked bread on an open fire. Of course we didn't stay up until 2 am when it was finished baking, but what a treat it was for breakfast.

The circle stretch became a necessary part of our morning routine. One person in our group commented that the passing boats must be wondering what kind of strange religious group would be on the beach in a circle with their rear ends in the air and heads on the ground!-ya-kum-la provided us time to comb the beaches, explore the old village site, and play games. What a special setting for a child to grow up in and explore. It's hard to believe that the most interesting places for many of the children today is the arcade, the mall, or a street corner.

Before we left we practised our song and drew a medicine wheel in the sand. We each collected a special treasure from-ya-kum-la and placed it in the center after we told of its significance which represented feelings, memories, sights, and experiences. The unity of our group pulled together -- a band of many nations.

 

Song and Dance

The swells of the open ocean rolled into Quatsino Sound as we paddled back to Mahatta Creek. We felt invisible to the mother and baby black bear which were foraging on the beach together. Our kayaks were silent in the breaking surf and the wind was carrying our scent away. Amazing! 30 metres, 20 metres, 10 metres -- they still didn't notice us! They finally recognised our figures and bolted into the forest. Another night at Mahatta Creek was filled with laughter and conversation. Later we gathered in talking feather circle and shared what was on our hearts in this traditional Native custom which exemplifies respect.

The enjoyment and entertainment of a kayak trip is usually associated with the experience you have while you are in the kayak. On this trip the kayaks were a means to see and experience Quatsino Sound at a perspective and pace in which the aboriginal peoples of this area would have. What we experienced, learned and enjoyed out of the kayaks was as special as what we experienced, learned and enjoyed in the kayaks.

We rounded the point into old Quatsino under a rainy grey sky, pulling through the strongest tide current of the trip. On the beach were chiefs and band members singing, dancing and rhythmically drumming our welcome home. A great feast awaited us. We sat in awe, motionless in an eddy. We responded by singing our song as a band of many nations.

The evening we spent in Quatsino Village was magical. Fran, Marc, Marilyn, Patrick, Tom, Henry, Papa Willie, Mervin, and Caleb brought Quatsino Village alive again. Under the Sisiutl around a blazing fire the feast was set -- a kayaking Dzunok'wa feast bowl filled with crab, dishes of salmon, halibut, herring eggs, sea grass, bannock, salads, seafood stew, wines and juices. We were honored as the singers and dancers fervently performed. The light from the roaring fire contrasting with the encroaching darkness of dusk accentuated the deep features and colours of the masks and regalia. These songs and dances represent a history of a people which began so long ago that it fades into the beginnings of time. We all flowed into the rhythms and sounds as we danced to the fun dances around the fire.

The songs and sounds echoed behind us out of the village -- a village which had been brought back to life for one night by a band of many nations. Papa Willie said it the best when he said "We are one big family in this world, because we have all been made by one God. We must learn to respect each other."

Jerry Markus lives in Port Hardy, BC. Marc and Fran Jinnouchi run North Island Boat, Canoe & Kayak Rentals of Port Hardy, BC. They can be reached at 604/949-7707.