Flavours of the Caribbean: Magic of Belize

December 1995 - January 1996

This is an article from WaveLength Magazine, available in print in North America and globally on the web.

by Lilian Alessa

There is a place nestled in the arms of one of the world's largest barrier reefs where the winds bring the scent of fresh coconut bread and the haunting lilt of drums... where the sun sets only in the light of perfection and rises with a song as silent and powerful as life itself... where if you wander along the beach at twilight you can feel the pull of your soul into the gentle darkness punctuated only by stars and the warm wind of the Caribbean sea... where the ancient rhythms of Africa and the eyes of the aboriginal descendants glimmer with dreams as thick and complicated as the jungle... a place called Belize.

Sunsets here are woven from light itself, graced with hues of nature purified by the sun. After the day's brilliance and warmth, the blaze of life and living temper to the sleepy glow of twilight. The evening breezes are scented with hibiscus, and the salty touch of the sea herself permeates the night. Twilight is the time when the villages stir with the human face of Belize, when the magic and the ancient roots of its cultures emerge.

Drumming is central to Belizean garifuna life and even if you have never been fond of drums, they will convert you and carry you someplace that cannot be seen with human eyes, into the womb of collective memories, the Mother's heartbeat soothing and beckoning to life, calling from the night the legends and stuff of magic so that you can almost see the spirits dancing with the living.

The best way to enter into this experience is by kayak, giving you the freedom of traveling the coastline while protected by a 290 kilometer natural reef. You can bring a collapsible kayak with you, or reach a rental arrangement with one of the increasing numbers of kayak tour operators in Belize. But keep in mind that you are on your own. Should an emergency arise, self-sufficiency is the key. So unless you have had sufficient kayaking experience, I suggest you go with a commercial operator, preferably one who uses hardshells rather than 'inflatable' kayaks.

If you do go on your own, a good starting point for a trip is the the town of Dangriga in the district of Stann Creek, just south of Belize City. Belize City is only worth visiting if you wish to access one of the many islands or cayes [pronounced "keys"], some of which are bird sanctuaries inhabited only by the occasional lighthouse keeper and his family. Halfmoon Caye is a wonderful place to get stuck in a storm and miss your flight home entirely.

 

Route planning in the inner waters can be somewhat tricky due to the lack of accurate nautical charts and the fact that the Cayes often look the same. The crossing from Sue Beach to the first Cayes varies from approximately 8 to 12 nautical miles and should be considered a major crossing. You should plan your route ahead of time, finding out which Cayes possess permanent inhabitants or resorts and which Cayes consist of coral reef rather than mangrove. The mangrove Cayes, while amazing in their architecture, are a fragile, poorly studied ecosystem and, although good for lunch stops, not for overnight camping unless you are willing to stay suspended in a hammock.

Plan your daily mileage with enough time to reach the next Caye before the mid-afternoon rain squalls begin. Although short-lived, a tremendous amount of energy is released into the water and can make conditions challenging in open stretches of ocean. Those same winds can also be highly amenable to sailing and, on our trip in 1993, since I lacked the foresight to pack the sail from my Seafarer, we ended up building one from palm fronds and some old blue plastic tarp (yes, it worked!).

As you may have gathered, hypothermia is rarely a problem, as are sharks, contrary to popular belief. Water depths vary depending where you are on the numerous subsystems of reefs that skirt the Cayes. The reef ecosystem is extremely sensitive and should be treated as such. Larger animals often linger on the deeper sides of the reef and snorkeling will take you into a seductive world full of sublime beauty.

The trip from Dangriga down to the mouth of the Monkey River takes you along some incredible coastline. Creamy coral beaches lined with coconut palms and a botanist's dream of tropical flora gradually blend into dark green mountains bent in moody benediction over the dancing greens and blues of the Caribbean waters. Stops can be made at most of the various villages along the way, a notable one being the town of Hopkins, and another highlight being the delightful settlement at Placencia Beach. We spent five days here enjoying the food, drink and especially the music. There is a large beachfront campground with an eclectic assortment of travelers usually gracing its sands and a good selection of stores, 'restaurants' and entertainment.

Our trip to Belize was meant as a respite from the pace of life in Vancouver and a chance to paddle upon the fabled crystal waters of the Caribbean, but it turned into a journey for the mind and spirit as well as the body. Here I saw people who, with very little, managed to weave for themselves a tapestry of being as colourful as the Belizean sky in dusk. Compared to some of the other countries of similar economic status I've traveled to, the children in Belize display joy, laughter and peace in the face of hardship and poverty. And though, as with all places, the precarious balance of good and evil sometimes falters, the cool sound of drumming calls every person to remember that all is rooted in this blessed earth and that there is far more to it than meets the eye.

 

Provisioning

Provisioning in Belize is possible as long as you are willing to be flexible and be innovative with the materials you find available. Food may be obtained in Dangriga where it is best to stock up on basic dry goods: rice, beans, flour, sweet and savory biscuits. Oranges and other citrus fruits are cheap and readily available as are a variety of roots and tubers. Peanut butter, canned 'cheese' and a wide variety of preserves make for hearty lunches when accompanied by fresh bread made over an open fire or bought from the numerous open air 'bakeries' along the main road.

It is best to make your own bread every other day or so on your trip rather than buy a large quantity before leaving as it will spoil very quickly. A sturdy pot with a deep lid, a wooden spoon and some tin foil should suffice as a kitchen to make anything from rice and beans to grilled seafood to bread (using the lid nestled in hot coals as an 'oven'). See recipe.

Many local spices are available, few are unfamiliar and almost all are incredible. Two other commodities are ubiquitous: seafood and coconuts. The former may be obtained through a number of fishermen you will encounter or you can look into getting a harvest license from the Belize government. Coconuts require a machete to open them up but unless you are highly adept at climbing trees with no branches, you should either buy what you need beforehand or come to some arrangement with one of the local children who will climb up and pick some green coconuts for you. Green coconut milk should be discarded as it is a stronger laxative than the rest of the edible parts, but the meat can be very tender and delicious. Brown coconut milk can go into making your daily bread and the meat can be roasted and eaten hot off the grill or added to rice and beans for unbeatable flavor. Restraint should be used, however, since all parts do possess some degree of laxative qualities which could exacerbate dehydration and fatigue.

Water is a problem not only in terms of supply, especially on the cayes but also in terms of contamination in populated areas. Bottled water should be purchased and the seal examined to ensure that it is intact. All water for the trip needs to be carried in your boat so you should bring sturdy plastic collapsible containers with you from home since they are impossible to find in Belize.

 

If you go

British Admiralty maps may be obtained from Triton Holdings in Vancouver and a general information packet can be received through any travel agent or by writing to the Belize Tourist Board: 83 Front. St., Belize City. Ph: 011-501-2-77213. Fax: 011-501-2-77490. Major airlines fly into Belize City or, if you are not pressed for time, you can get cheap flights into Cancun and take a bus down along the Yucatan peninsula all the way to Dangriga, but this is a long ride and best enjoyed if you are able to stop along the way and explore the beaches and archeological sites. Don't forget to consult your doctor for standard inoculations and be sure to wear light clothes which give good coverage from the sun and sandflies. A sun hat and sunglasses are essential.

Lilian Alessa is a Ph.D. student in the Botany Department at the University of British Columbia. She has spent two years as a professional sea kayak guide and is currently involved in setting up an outdoor education company called Acorn Training Inc. whose mission is to train people in wilderness skills and show them the beauty and otherworldliness of the backcountry.