Destination: Desolation Sound

August-September 1996

This is an article from WaveLength Magazine, available in print in North America and globally on the web.

 

Cortes Island is a great jumping off spot for Desolation Sound, or you can go via Powell River (on the mainland) to Lund or Okeover Landing. For specific advice or assistance (rentals, tours, etc.) call Steve London of T'ai Li Lodge at 604/935-6749, Ralph Keller of Coast Mountain Expeditions at 604/287-0635, Helga Sheppard of Powell River Sea Kayaking at 604/483-2410, or check out some of our other advertisers who offer trips in the area.What follows are comments by a couple of paddlers from the Wavenet internet chatline.

Remember that this is prime cruising country and you will see lots of boats, but if you stay away from the major anchorages it can be very peaceful. Since camping for large groups is very limited you don't have to compete with tour groups, and if you get out of the Sound proper you can have certain areas all to your self.

Unless you love boaters with boats large enough to embarrass the Canadian navy, stay out of Tenedos Bay and Prideaux Haven, Refuge Cove and Squirrel Cove. Contrary to what the guide book says there are a good number of camp sites but most are only reasonable for small groups. Try to develop a keen eye to spot sites by looking for areas that should be covered in salal or the presence of fire rings, etc.

Camping sites can be found at the following locations: Galley Bay, just east of Galley Bay, Grace Harbour, Prideaux Haven, Tenedos Bay, Curme Islands, Refuge Cove (on island), Martin Islands, Roscoe Bay, Squirrel Cove (island), Teakerne Arm (south arm), Copeland Islands just north of Lund, etc.

The water is good for swimming, since the currents in the area don't "flush" the area out. Pendrell Sound is probably the warmest in BC (up to 70°).

Drinking water is not a problem and most of the charted streams do exist. But a lot of the best camp sites are not near water so make sure you have large containers. [Since streams frequently come from nearby swimming lakes, be sure to boil all water.]

Thanks to Mike Allegretti, Elphinstone Secondary School Gibsons, B.C.

We camped at Tenedos (water pump here) and Prideaux and did just fine. The big boats were certainly there, but we found a little island (no water) near the east end of Prideaux where the big boats couldn't reach. Then we paddled out to the one selling fresh-caught shrimp (mmm...).

We did well at the east end of Galley, in Grace Harbour, and on the Curme's. We were lucky to find sites at all these places midweek, but we often got the only or last site. Roscoe has a shoal near its mouth that keeps the big boats out.

The sea water is as warm as advertised (warmer than our lakes here in Seattle, no wet suit needed), and the oysters are as yummy, but some shores are rough to beach on because of the sharp oyster shells. (Check for red tide closures before trying any shellfish.)

There are also lakes for both drinking water and swimming. Find the sometimes obscure creeks and trails to follow upstream to lakes at Grace, east Galley, Tenedos, and Roscoe. A good way to get clean & refreshed, although there were rumors of leeches (we didn't see them).

Thanks to Richard Strickland, School of Oceanography, University of Washington, Seattle

Powell River Sea Kayaking is just finishing a video of the area and will supply detailed paddling information to enquiries. Visit their Website at http://www.bcseakayak.com/