Destination: Cortes Island

August-September 1996

This is an article from WaveLength Magazine, available in print in North America and globally on the web.

Native to this part of BC were the Klahoose First Nation, a northern Coast Salish tribe who maintained seasonal and permanent villages from Toba Inlet south to Cortes. When the main villages in Toba Inlet were flooded in the 1800's, the Klahoose Band selected its traditional winter campgrounds at Squirrel Cove as its permanent site.

Cortes (pronounced Cortez) and nearby Hernando Islands were named after the Spanish conqueror of Mexico. This unlikely link was forged by the Spanish map-maker, Valdez, who charted these waters in 1793. The Spanish didn't settle, but Cortes and other Spanish names stuck.

Situated on the northern end of the Strait of Georgia, the islands of Quadra, Cortes, and Redonda provide a gateway to Desolation Sound.

Cortes Island is about 25 km long, 13 km wide, and 13,000 hectares in area. The southern half of this rugged island is in Vancouver Island's rain shadow and benefits from a drier climate than its northern half. Not surprisingly, most of the island's permanent residents (736 according to the '91 Census) live in the southern portion.

Open bluffs of arbutus, manzanita and juniper mark the northern limit of these plants on the west coast of Canada. Numerous conifers and deciduous species cover most of the island with denser, lusher vegetation in the north. Cortes has blackberries, salal, huckleberries, salmonberries, and thimbleberries.

There are numerous lagoons with abundant shellfish and shorebirds. Manson's Landing Provincial Park is the most accessible, as well as Smelt Bay, Squirrel Cove and the beach south of the government wharf in the Gorge Harbour. Oyster and clam leases are numerous and marked with red concrete blocks at their corners. Please keep clear of these areas. Even pedestrian traffic is harmful to shellfish.

Cortes visitors are attracted by its beauty. Hiking or biking on old logging roads, many overgrown, will take the adventuresome into seldom visited habitats. Carrington Bay and Von Donop Inlet provide a maze of trails to sort out. Gunflint and Hague Lakes are surrounded mostly by parklands with a series of new, unmarked trails. When hiking on Cortes remember that most small roads lead to private residences, so take care choosing your path.

Camp at Smelt Bay Provincial Park and swim, sun, or beachcomb along the park's beaches. Manson's Landing Provincial Park includes Manson's Lagoon, and a large, sandy beach on Hague Lake. (No camping. No powerboats. NO PETS.) Bring your own kayak or rent one on the island. Kayak, dive, sail, or charter a boat for fishing or sightseeing.

The crystal clear waters and lush forests make Cortes the treasure it is, so locals ask visitors to leave the island as they found it for others to enjoy. The area becomes very dry during the summer months and there may sometimes be camp fire bans which will be posted. Use your car ashtray and don't smoke while walking in the woods.

When swimming at Hague Lake, do not use soap or shampoo. Nor are dogs allowed on the beach or in the water. Hague Lake provides drinking water for lakeside residents.

There is a sani-dump for campers and mobile homes at the Taka Mika Restaurant opposite Manson's Landing Community Hall. Boaters are urged to use holding tanks and avoid dumping sewage in the beautiful bays.

Naturalist-guide, George Sirk suggests a day tour to Mitlenatch Island Nature Park, "the Galapagos of Georgia Strait." Wildflowers provide a thick ground-cover on Mitlenatch which is summer home to a seabird colony of nearly 4000 pairs of birds. Please stay on the trails and heed the signs on this wildlife sanctuary.

The original native name for the island means "appears close but moves away as you approach."

(Paddlers Note: Mitlenatch is too distant and exposed for most paddlers but you can get a charter from Cortes.)

Gorge Harbour Marina and Resort

Sightseeing trips and fishing charters available. Ideal base for kayakers and small boat day trips. Bike, boat, kayak and scooter rentals. Great fishing in the area. Full RV hookups, campground, lodge, seasonal B&B, authentic tipi accommodation available, boat launch & moorage, laundromat/showers; dock fuel & marine parts; licensed restaurant; boat rentals; fishing tackle & licenses; general store. Glen & Verlie Carleton, Box 89, Whaletown, BC V0P 1Z0 Ph. 604/935-6433 Fax 604/935-6402

Old Floathouse Restaurant

Delicious food; exquisite location at Gorge Harbour Marina Resort. Licensed. Daily specials. Hunt Road off Whaletown Road. Open weekends, then daily May thru Sept. Lunch from 12:00 - 2:30 pm. Dinner from 6 pm - 9 pm. Call for off-season hours. Box 89, Whaletown, BC V0P 1Z0 Ph. 604/935-6631

Hollyhock Seminar & Holiday Center

Vacations to renew body, mind, & spirit Mar. thru Oct. Optional workshops in the practical, creative & healing arts. Sandy beach, sailing & kayaking. Hot tub. Extraordinary cuisine. Accommodations from tenting to private rooms. Catalogue & video. Box 127, Mansion's Landing, BC V0P 1K0 Ph. 1-800-933-6339 or 604/935-6578 Fax 604/935-6424

T'ai Li Lodge

Marine adventure lodge on peninsula facing into Desolation Sound. Wilderness sailing and sea kayaking, novice to expert. Kayak school, rentals, retail sales, naturalist guided day trips. Moorings, rooms, meals, camping, showers, area information and orientation. Box 16, Cortes Bay, BC V0P 1K0 Ph. 604/935-6749 http://www.island.net/~taili/