Paddling Gear: Picking the Perfect Paddle

August-September 1996

This is an article from WaveLength Magazine, available in print in North America and globally on the web.

by Chris Ladner

Picking the right kayak is only the beginning. Picking the perfect paddle is more crucial. The paddle will affect the performance of your kayak more than the subtle variations in hull designs. Paddle decisions are influenced by your personality and paddling style. Most of us, even after twenty odd years on the water, are still working on our paddling style (not to mention our personality too). The model of paddle will also affect your style. Paddle choices are always personal, so I can only suggest alternatives. Remember that we all end up with more than one paddle.

Let's be honest about what kind of person you are. Is being there more important than the getting there? Is a slow plod more preferable than a peppy pace? What has been your paddling experience so far? Whitewater? Canoeing? Are you a cyclist? Who will be paddling with you? What kind of boat have you got? What are your needs: day tripping, aerobic workouts, short overnight trips, longer solo trips, death march epics?

based on diagrams from the 4th edition of Derek Hutchinson's Complete Book of Sea Kayaking, Globe Pequot Press

There are some basic premises to be understood. Let's face it, the average cruising speed for most paddlers is 2 nautical miles (1853 metres) per hour. Three knots is not unreasonable for most. Four knots quickly becomes an epic effort. Five knots is Olympian. Six knots is surfing. The premise here is that a kayak will only go so fast. Even slower when it's loaded. You can expend immense amounts of effort and achieve marginal returns in overall speed, not to mention the wear and tear on your body. Therefore, a bigger blade on a longer shaft does not always get you there any faster. If you cycle, this equates to using tenth gear for going up hills.

Paddle length and blade size are the two key sizing characteristics. Paddle composition, whether it be graphite, fibreglass, wood, plastic, or some other new technology is a small consideration next to length and blade size. Focus on the idea that your paddle must be appropriate for your needs.

Let's look at overall paddle length. Anyone who tells you to put your hand up to the blade to determine the paddle size is more likely to sell you a paddle appropriate for skiing. The longer the paddle and the bigger the blade, then the slower the cadence (stroke rate). The opposite is true for shorter shafts and smaller blades.

Shorter paddle lengths work best for: a narrower boat, bigger blade, shorter height from the waist up, need for higher cadence (whitewater background, Type A personality) and shorter duration aerobic paddling. Longer paddle lengths are suitable for: wider boats, narrower blades, folks taller from the waist up, plodding cadence (Canoeist, Type B personality) and longer distance touring.

Paddle length philosophy is evolving. Traditionally sea kayakers would use nine foot narrow clubs because their boats were wider and the mentality more meditative. The influence came from traditional greenland and Aleutian style paddles. We have progressed from wider to narrower boats and succumbed to the whitewater and British influences. Now we are seeing shorter shaft lengths. For most people a 230 to 240 cm paddle in a 24" wide boat is fine. Our most popular selling sizes are 230 and 235 cm in a medium sized blade.

Blade shape is simple. The wider blade will pull more water than the narrower blade. Wider blades offer more forgiveness for bracing. If you like to paddle in rough conditions then a wider blade will require feathering earlier. If you have wrist, elbow or shoulder problems stay away from wider blades. Therefore wider blades work well for stronger paddlers looking for a workout or who like to paddle rougher conditions. Bigger blades can really impress your paddling partners at the beginning of the trip when you are miles ahead of everyone. As the trip progresses your body will complain. Narrower blades are more appropriate for long distance paddling or for folks with wrist, elbow or shoulder over-use injuries. The narrower blade will not have the same acceleration as a wider blade but can maintain speed easier. This is analogous with using a lower gear for better cadence on a bicycle. A medium size blade will serve multiple purposes and is generally the blade of choice for a first paddle.

Paddling style differs with all skill levels. When you look at guides who have to paddle all day you will undoubtedly see a very relaxed stroke with the hands just hovering above the deck. You can only really get this kind of stroke if you have a longer (230 cm plus) paddle. Whitewater paddlers will poo poo this style as too laid back. Their style is more hands at shoulder level. This is fine for short duration aerobic paddling with a fast cadence in a narrower boat (23" or less). This type of performance paddling requiring quick responses and power moves is best achieved with the super wide blades on a shorter (195 to 220cm) shaft. By raising your hands, creating an upright stroke gives you the power but also raises your centre of gravity and changes your balance. The British school advocates this paddling style (big blade, short shaft, high stroke, narrow boat, epic distances, macho to the max).

Blades as they move through the water do two things: they go up and down and flutter (rotate). Good blade design will minimize these actions to ease the wear and tear on your wrist. Blade cross sections vary but strong dihedral designs (very pronounced spines down the centre of the blade) provide good directional stability for the paddle. Flatter blades spill the water easier. Asymmetrical blade shape reduces flutter. Remember to keep the longer edge at the top. Having a paddle upside down is a basic coolness faux pas. The bottom half has less area because as the paddle enters the water it will want to rotate. The larger upper half can compensate for this rotation thereby reducing flutter. Paddles with straight ends will flutter the most.

The materials used to manufacture paddle blades are on the brink of dramatic change. Blade weight is important when you think how many strokes you take in a day multiplied by even one extra ounce. On a long trip the extra effort in just lifting the paddle equates to many extra pounds.

Graphite (or 'carbon') is the most expensive construction because of the fiber cost. You gain an incredible weight advantage and the paddle is quite stiff (which is not always preferable). You can get graphite in the blades only or shaft and blade. Although it is stiff it is quite brittle so you must be gentle with a graphite paddle. The light weight can be a joy to paddle with for some but others prefer a little weight in the paddle for a better feel. Fiberglass has recently been the paddle of choice because of its thin profile, breadth of styles available and light weight.

Fiberglass paddles are usually hand laid up and can come in colours (although retailers hate to stock the colours because invariably they won't have the style in the colour you want). Glass paddles have good stiffness but some flex and are available in a multitude of shapes and sizes. RTM (Resin Transfer Molding) comes to us from the car parts business. You can usually identify these paddles because they are ugly. You can see the bits of glass strands all over the place and the blades are thicker.

RTM paddles are extremely durable, inexpensive and only slightly heavier than regular fiberglass. The big advantage is for the manufacturer because they use a closed mold where none of the vapours go into the atmosphere.

Plastic paddles have traditionally been heavy, thick and chunky feeling. They make for great tarp poles and clam shovels. The plastics of yesteryear are now being replaced with new glass reinforced resins which offer a durable thin blade for a reasonable price. It is sometimes referred to as AMT (Advanced Molding Technology). This technology is destined to replace the fiberglass blade.

Wood paddles are popular with the Japanese and reformed canoeists. They offer warmth in the winter and a unique feel with a slight give. They are heavier but not by much. A lot of wood paddles are cheaper and these generally come with metal ferrules (the tubular parts which fit together to join the paddle halves). Care must be given to metal ferrules as they will loosen easily and once bent out of round will not go together well. Wood paddles are a must for homemade boats. Wood actually has long term durability and is easily maintained.

Shaft construction is similar in most composite paddles. There is a major supplier in the U.S. for most paddle manufacturers. More custom shafts are appearing. Fiberglass is the most common material. Graphite is light, stiff and brittle. Wood is warm and nice to feel. Aluminum is cold and lasts only a short while. All shafts will have a slight or even pronounced 'ovalling' where the hands will sit. providing added comfort and helping you know where the power face of the blade is.

Care of a paddle is essential. Keep your graphite paddle out of other's hands. Avoid pushing off from rocks with composite (glass, graphite) blades. The high wear areas are the edges of the blades and the ferrule. Doubles are an excellent source of getting mouse bites in your paddle blade. The ferrule should be clear of sand before putting together. A quick dunk in the drink before you join them is a good idea. Do not use any kind of lubricant-this only attracts sand. Over time the ferrule may need a light sanding (600 grit wet sand paper). If you are buying a used paddle it is usually the ferrule wear that is the impetus to sell a paddle. Give it a shake to feel if it rattles too much at the ferrule.

Paddle choices are yours. The best way to choose a first paddle is to consider a medium size blade on a medium length shaft. You will get used to what you have and you will also figure out what kind of paddler you are and what kind of paddling you like to do. You will know when it's time to buy a new paddle after spending time on the water.

Chris Ladner owns Ecomarine Oceak Kayak Centre on Granville Island in Vancouver and writes a regular column in WaveLength