Gentle Tropical Rivers: Kaua'i Island's flatwater rivers

April-May 1996

This is an article from WaveLength Magazine, available in print in North America and globally on the web.

by Micco Godinez

The Hanalei River Photo by Micco Godinez

Kaua'i is the most northwesterly of the inhabited Hawai'ian islands and also the oldest. From a speculated former height of 15 to 20 thousand feet, Kaua'i has been whittled down to a pie-shaped island 30 miles wide. In its wake, erosion has left Kaua'i with the moniker of the "Garden Island". Erosion has allowed for a riot of verdant growth to cling to the edges of waterfalls, precarious cliffs, fluted ridges and the landscape in general.

This tropical vegetation of Kaua'i is fed by all the rains that fall in the mountains. The rains of Hawai'i fall mostly on Kaua'i and the rains of Kaua'i fall mostly in the Alakai swamp which lies atop an old spongy caldera that is the repository for most of the rain. The Alakai swamp is the source for most of the rivers on Kaua'i.

Kaua'i has ten rivers suitable for paddling by kayak or canoe. Some, especially on the south shore, although picturesque, are neglected in favour of the more popular and longer rivers of the north and east shores of Kaua'i -- areas that receive most of the rains that help prime these rivers.

Most of the rivers that drain the center caldera and the slopes of Kaua'i, become gentle Class I rivers once they reach sea level, and take long languid serpentine courses to the sea. The rivers are rather old geologically, shown by the many bends that the rivers takes to reach their mouths by the sea. The more bends a river has, the older it is.

Most of the major roads follow along the coastal shores, with very few roads allowing access to the rivers upstream. So as a rule, paddlers launch their boats at the mouths of the rivers and paddle upstream. Yes, upstream, against a current that is insignificant a majority of the times. Remember that the rivers are old and slow moving, and it is only during times of flood that a strong current will prevail.

What can be more of a nuisance and test your mettle, is the wind. On a given day the wind is more of a factor than the current. On the east side of the island, on the average day, the easterly tradewinds will cancel out the current that is working against you as you paddle upstream. The rule is generally to enjoy the paddle upstream with the wind, and know that you will be working a bit harder when you return with the current--but against the wind. Winds start slow during the morning, gain momentum, and peak around 3 or 4 in the afternoon. During the summer, the tradewinds blow from the northeast to east and vary from zephyrs of 5 to 10 to more potent gusts of 15 to 20 miles per hour. Any other time of the year the winds can come from any quadrant and can vary in intensity.

Most of the rivers are shallow and retain a color of a dull jade green. This is the healthy color of a river in repose. Many of the rivers turn a muddy brown when it has been raining incessantly in the mountainous hinterland. The brown color of suspended particulates is the first sign that flooding could be imminent. It is not unusual to be sunny along the margin of the coast-line yet raining heavily in the interior. The rivers are still navigable at this stage, but it is wise to stay only on the wide, slow areas, and not venture where the river is constricted in size.

Some curious things happen when the rivers flood on Kaua'i. First of all the floods carry off precious sediment from the interior. In times of great rains and floods, most likely during the winter, you can see a "lei" of brown sediment that surrounds and garlands the diminishing isle of Kaua'i. Kaua'i is disappearing and we rarely take notice. One day it will become like the atolls and sea mounts that we witness to the northwest towards Midway and beyond to Kamchatka, off Russia.

Another curious phenomenon to observe, especially after a long dry summer and fall, is the first flood and the crowd of local folks brandishing cane poles; fishing for the 'o'opu, small bellied gobis that are considered by the palate to be fine dining. These native gobis are flushed down from the mountains above by periodic floods. What is remarkable about these creatures is their epic journeys up the sheer topography of rocks, boulders, cliffs, and waterfalls. Less flamboyant than the salmon maybe, but the result is the same -- survival. The way they accomplish their migration is by the adaptation of their pectoral fins that have evolved into suction cups of sorts, that gives them purchase on slippery rock faces, like mountain climbers.

A less pleasant organism to be aware of, that runoff from the land could be harboring during heavy rains, is an organism that has a one-week incubation period, Leptospirosis. With flu-like symptoms, Leptospirosis is cured by antibiotics. Rule of thumb: paddle when the organism is less likely to be in suspension and floating in the water, i.e. when the river is running its characteristic dull jade green color.

Of the main rivers on the north and east shore, the more popular ones are: 1. the Hanalei River, 2. Kalihiwai River, 3. Wailua River.

Hanalei River

View from the Hanalei River, Kauai - Photo by Micco Godinez

The Hanalei has it all. It has incomparable scenery that for many is the quintessence of Kaua'i. Paddle up past and under the landmark 1912 one-lane iron bridge and slide into the Hanalei Wildlife Refuge. In the wildlife refuge look for native and endangered birds like the Hawaiian Stilt and Gallinule. Paddle and splash off a rope swing in a bamboo forest of green. Distant wai'leles (waterfalls) festoon the fluted ridges beyond.

The navigable portion ends where the river narrows and get shallow. Paddle back towards the river mouth and a sweeping view of Bali Hai (Makana) peak looms in the distance. Park your kayak or canoe by the sand bar and walk out to the Hanalei pier that was built for the export of rice. At the river mouth there is the county beach park of Black Pot. Black Pot has amenities such as bathrooms, picnic shelters, showers and is one of the favored local hangouts, especially in the evening, to catch the sunset. For the more adventurous and experienced paddler, Hanalei Bay offers some great snorkeling during the summer and great surf kayaking during the winter, when the surf is bigger. Most people dedicate anywhere from 3 to 5 hours for this river. You can rent and launch your boat from your rental car at either the river mouth or at Kayak Kaua'i Outbound, which has river access from a private dock.

Kalihiwai River

The Kalihiwai is not as long as the Hanalei river and one can do the river roundtrip in about one and half hours. The launching area is by a beautiful big pool, with shores of sand and black lava rocks, that empties into the small bay of Kalihiwai. Immediately as you paddle you will notice the remnants of the old bridge that was obliterated by the last big tsunami of April 1, 1946. The Kalihiwai is a good choice, especially when the winds are strong, because of the high bluffs that envelope and protect it from most winds.

For the more adventurous there is a 20-minute hike to a three-tiered waterfall. Paddle under the new concrete bridge and several bends later the river comes to some abrupt shallows and you will run aground. Take out on the left hand side and pull your boat high and dry. Hike up the sloping bank 30 feet and you will discover a muddy trail. Further along, you will have to leave the trail and cross the stream and pick up the trail leading to the waterfall. The lower waterfall is yours to enjoy anyway and anytime of the week. If you choose to take the right fork of the waterfall trail, it will lead up a steep bluff and will take you to the second tier of the waterfall. (Note: local courtesy is to avoid this area between 10 a.m. and 2:00 p.m., in order to avoid conflict with the horseback group that runs tours every day of the week except Sunday. Sunday the whole waterfall and all its levels are yours to enjoy.) The third level offers a better view but the second level is preferred due to the swimming hole and cascading falls.

Wailua River

The Wailua river is officially the only recognized navigable river in Hawaii and consequently knows a fair amount of motorized traffic. This river is also well known for the Fern Grotto, which is a popular tour destination. Access to the Wailua is at Kaumualii Area of the Wailua State Park on route #580 (Kuamoo road). This park is about 1/2 mile from the bay of Wailua and offers bathrooms, parking, and a convenient ramp to launch your kayak or canoe. On most days you will have the winds at your back as you paddle upstream against the current. The work will begin at the end of the day when you paddle downstream but against the east facing winds. The Wailua river consists of two forks: South and North.

• The South Fork: leads to the Fern Grotto and which until recently has been a favored destination for the paddler. For bureaucratic reasons it has been closed to non-motorized crafts. The only way to access it is by motorized boat tours. The long term management of the Wailua river is in flux and this condition will change in time. When you rent your canoe or kayak ask the people you rent your boat from about the state of affairs concerning the Fern Grotto.

Beyond the Grotto there is a nice rope swing to splash off. Past the rope swing this branch of the river winds through some beautiful pastures enclosed by high bluffs. The navigable portion ends where the shallows begin by an old mango tree.

• The North Fork: one of Wailua River's little known secrets offers a very short paddle through a canopied forest of overhanging trees, vines, and lianas. Better yet, it offers a gateway, if you are into a 40 minute hike, to a nameless and delicate waterfall. The trail is flat and follows the shallow banks of the North Fork. For most people this combination of paddling and hiking is a highlight of the Wailua river.

You can dedicate anywhere from 3 to 6 hours on the Wailua river.

Huleia River

This river's claim to fame is Indiana Jones and the first movie of the series, that had a big round lava boulder chasing him out of the jungle and to the banks of an exotic river. It was from the Huleia river that this segment was filmed. This river is located next to Lihue and the best place to launch is by Niumalu County Beach Park which is close to the Nawiliwili Small Boat Harbor. On the south side of Niumalu County Beach Park, the local canoe club has a ramp. The river is an easy paddle upstream, but of any river on Kaua'i, it can be quite a workout paddling back with the current but against the wind. The highlight of this trip is paddling by the Menehune Fish Pond, which is a bend of the river that was diverted and enclosed with a wall of rocks and used as a pool for keeping fish fresh and alive. This feat of engineering is attributed to a small race of legendary people called Menehunes, who carried on their project under the cloak of darkness. Past the fish pond one enters the Huleia Wildlife Refuge. The Huleia river can be paddled in three to four hours round trip.

Shorter Rivers

Kilauea River: Close to the Kilauea Lighthouse. One and half hour round trip paddle. Launching is rather difficult. Beautiful sandy beach and bay. Located down a dirt road off Kalepa road, off Highway 56.

Anahola River: Short river of less than a hour and half round trip. Located near the small village of Anahola. Follow Aliomanu Rd. until the river and ocean appear on the right. Anahola bay is a wide sandy beach with surf. The river has some fine views of the Anahola Mountains which resemble the Matterhorn with a tropical flair.

Kapaa River: Just by the beach of Kealia near Kapaa town. A bit longer river that goes under a walking suspension bridge. Good views toward the interior cloud-covered mountain peaks of Kaua'i.

Hanapepe: This river is less than an a hour and half round trip from Hanapepe town. Best place to put in is the Port Allen small boat harbor and paddle into the bay and to the river mouth. In summer there can be a little bit of surf breaking at the river mouth. This river is notable for some of the old buildings that line and overhang the west side of the river. The river ends at a small weir.

Waimea River: When Captain Cook landed on Kaua'i he found the bay fronting the village of Waimea to be the best mooring area he could find at that time of year. The bay at Waimea was kept naturally deep by the scouring action of the Waimea river. But the Waimea River has now been tamed by channelization and levies, and with the taming of this river, the bay at Waimea has silted up and is no longer useful for mooring ships. The Waimea river is very shallow from its mouth. The best launching area is on the Waimea side of the river next to the Lucy Wright County Beach Park. If the waters are high you may be able to paddle all the way to the suspension walking bridge and inspect the Menehune ditch rock work nearby. Of special interest and worth inspection is the Russian Fort Elizabeth on the eastern side of the Waimea River mouth; testimony to an era when Russia had ambitions of a tropical outpost to complement their settlements in Alaska.

Getting Started

A popular way to get to many of the rivers is to rent a hard shell kayak or canoe. Usually a roof rack will come as part of the rental price of your boat. With the boat fastened to your rental car and map in hand, the adventure begins. When you rent a kayak/canoe ask the vendor to throw in a dry bag to keep things dry and a cooler to keep things cool.

What to bring

Sun exposure is the main concern. Bring sun bloc, water, and a picnic. Bug repellant is only necessary if you are going to go hiking. On the river itself, bugs are not a problem. A hat, t-shirt, bathing suit, shorts, and sandals are the paddling uniform. A disposable camera is real handy if there is a chance your good camera might get wet. Bring a towel for a shower after paddling. And plan on having a good dinner nearby to replenish all the calories effortlessly lost.

Micco Godinez has run Kayak Kaua'i Outbound for the past twelve years, with two central locations: Hanalei and Kapaa. In 1980 Micco and his brother Chino paddled from Everett, Washington to Skagway, Alaska on a 5 month odyssey. In 1986 they paddled the island chain of Hawaii from the Big Island to Kaua'i on a 6 week journey. They later paddled the Bering Strait to Russia during a cold July in a Baidarka that sunk and is still on the bottom.

At the store in Hanalei there is access to the river. Micco can be reached at 800-437-3507 or 808/826-9844, or by e-mail at Outbound@Aloha.net.