Broken Group Islands: Rules and Loos

April-May 1996

This is an article from WaveLength Magazine, available in print in North America and globally on the web.

by Deb Leach

The West Coast of Vancouver Island, though not easily accessible, is popular with paddlers. Heading on a group trip to the Broken Islands, I was asked to report on the impact of the new park regulations from a kayaker's perspective.

We found the gateway to the Broken Islands, Toquart Bay, 80 kilometres south of Tofino lined with dozens of recreational vehicles. A curious harbour seal supervised our fleet of 6 singles and 2 doubles heading south toward more than 100 islands in Barkley Sound as we launched into 5 days of island life to check out the rules and loos in Pacific Rim National Park.

At Hand Island, the closest of the eight designated campsites, we read a sign outlining camping regulations. Four nights is the maximum stay on one island. That seemed fair. Our guide said that "people understand... they are nice sites with good boat access." We'd already heard that the Park had decided not to start the reservation system next season -- the sign was outdated. Apparently, the $5 per night charge for each camper and limit of 10 per group had already helped alleviate crowding. The Aussie "commissionaire" who collected fees each morning told us that there were between 60 and 240 campers in the park each day during the season. One camper commented "... some kind of limit is good...but, the whole business of registering and paying detracts from the wilderness experience."

Most of the shell beaches (other than Hand Island) were strewn with ample logs for legal beach fires. Signs reminded us to boil our water because of bacterial contamination from mink and raccoon feces. Another kayaker claimed that Dodd Island was the best source of fresh water. We followed the rules about fishing, and feasted on succulent black bass, tiger and spring rock cod. Other campers were better at trapping crab than we were.

Hand Island was our first encounter with the new "Sunergy" solar composting toilets -- to be in place near all campsites by this summer. These modern, creatively designed cedar buildings are a pleasant alternative to the "intertidal" experience. Each is uniquely formed to its surroundings, with decorative touches of driftwood and shells.

Reviews on the loos were unanimous -- they smell better and there are no flies coming out". A veteran of the Islands has even encountered campers sleeping inside when their tents got soaked. A high rating.

Birthday girl, Heather Jensen, enjoying a sunny Broken Group day.

On Dodd Island, our lunch site was invaded by four men and two women who arrived in a whaler and a flat-bottomed aluminum craft. They proudly told us they were staff and volunteers doing the "Litter Blitz", their year-end Broken Group cleanup.

 Almost daily we were grateful that this ecosystem is now being protected. Signs of clear-cutting, a Donkey engine from logging days, and vestiges of native inhabitation were evident throughout the Park. The clear shallow waters revealed stars and sea stars. We saw Dall's porpoise one day and small black-tailed deer are regular visitors to island meadows. We spotted black stoneturners, oyster catchers, Harlequin ducks, Eurasian Widgeons and bald eagles. In spring, the invasion of eagles is said to outnumber the seagull population.

From our campsite on Benson Island, we could hear the barking of a symphony of California sea lions three islands away. This truly is "Bark"ley Sound. The morning we paddled by them was quite peaceful until the bull Stellars woke from their naps and growled, causing a stampede toward the water. I was glad we'd followed the unwritten rules about keeping well away and using telephoto lens as we evaded the incredible brown hulks.

After 5 days "at sea", we paddled up a creek on Vancouver Island with a series of rock pools and waterfalls. Fortunately, we had the spot to ourselves for catching rays, washing up and enjoying our last picnic together. The rules and regulations had not hampered our holiday.

It is a complex concern finding ways to preserve the wilderness experience and fix that which is broken. All told, it is well worth visiting Barkley Sound for a refreshing wilderness experience.

For more Broken Group lore -- refer to Michael Blade's Day of Two Sunsets and Island Paddling by Mary Anne Snowden.

Deborah Leach is a Nutritionist with the Prevention and Health Promotion Branch, BC Ministry of Health.