Bahia de Los Angeles

Oct0ber-November 1995

This is an article from WaveLength Magazine, available in print in North America and globally on the web.

Sea kayaking on the Sea of Cortez

by Tom Garrison

The author of the Sea of Cortez in one of his placid moods

After months of dreaming, weeks of planning and days of anticipation, I found myself sitting in my tent, on a bluff directly above the Sea of Cortez, staring out at numerous paddling destinations. With an air temperature of 85 degrees and a steady 10 knot breeze blowing, I reflected on our journey down the Baja Peninsula.

It was a hellishly epic trip down consisting of a three hour flight from Portland to San Diego, followed by a 12 hour van ride bouncing down Mexico Highway 1. Meeting at 6:30 that morning at PDX, we were a group of nine anxious travellers looking forward to getting this day behind us, for we each knew that we would awaken the following morning on the shores of Bahia de Los Angeles. We were a mixed group of experienced and beginner kayakers, naturalists, astronomers, gear junkies, and guides, all looking for an end of winter adventure in warmer climates. Sun and sea, sand and cactus, birds and bushes, were on our minds as we emerged from another winter in the Pacific Northwest.

The first day was spent recovering from our travels, organizing our camp, and orienting ourselves with the area and its inhabitants. A short trip into the Pueblo of Bahia de los Angeles revealed a small and quaint Mexican settlement on the shores of a protected bay set in a remote and very barren location on the Baja Peninsula. If it wasn't for the fresh water spring, there would have been no village at all. Our first destination was the local museum on natural history, where we were able to acquaint ourselves with the myriad of strange and exotic sea and desert life we would be encountering. Although the museum operates on an obviously minimal budget, we found their collections of sea life to be quite extensive and we all thrilled at the prospect of seeing these animals in their natural environment -- from our kayaks!

Back at camp, we were all anxious to acquaint ourselves with our chosen boats. First on the agenda was a quick review of some basic paddle strokes and a practice session of wet exits and assisted deep water re-entries. As everyone had some prior experience in kayaks, we were a fairly competent group of paddlers, ready to explore our new and exciting environment.

Day 2 began with a foray into the desert for the birders among us. For others, a cup of expresso or tea taken leisurely eased us into the day. After a hearty breakfast, prepared by our gourmet guides, we decided to do a day paddle out to Isla Coronado, via Punta La Gringa, in search of a mangrove swamp reputed to be on the island. As we entered a small cove, on the incoming tide, it opened up into a steep-sided desert canyon, populated by several ospreys. On a small hill, directly above the water, was an occupied osprey nest with two fledglings and their mom, acting a bit agitated at our intrusion into their domain. We landed on the beach for lunch, which was laid out on a kayak, and then proceeded to explore this desert island. After poking around a bit and finding no mangroves, it was discovered that the mangroves were one cove over -- oh well, perhaps next year we'll find them!

After portaging across a small isthmus, we made our way around the east side of the island and crossed over to Isla Calaveras (Skull Island), a guano-covered rock, where we spotted a Yellow Crowned Night Heron. We then paddled for a small channel that separated Isla Pata and Isla Bota. We landed for a short break and a snack, after which the sail was rigged on the tandem kayak for a sail back to our base camp, as the wind had risen to about 15 knots. We began the day on water that looked like glass (you could have shaved in it) and ended with chop and a moderate and steady breeze.

Day 3 was kind of an optional day for the group. As we had a fairly loose itinerary for the trip, each individual could choose what he or she wanted to do each day. This day began with the usual morning hike for the birders and naturalists (almost a daily ritual at this stage). Options for the day included land based activities such as mountain biking or hiking in the surrounding dessert, sun-tanning on the beach, a visit back to the Pueblo or Bahia de los Angeles or sailing lessons in the tandem "San Juan". I opted for mountain biking in the morning, a little sun-tanning at midday, and learning to sail the San Juan in the afternoon.

Refreshments and snacks were served in the late afternoon in what would become for us an American ritual known as "happy hour", practised in the middle of the Baja dessert. It was a time for the group to get to know each other better, to joke around and to discuss the possible options for the following day. On this evening we were making plans for an overnight trip to a small and remote cove known as Puerto Don Juan. Everyone in the group was keen to take on such an excursion.

The next day began with another beautiful dawn over the bay. The group was up and about early, packing our gear, taking down our tents and stowing everything in the kayaks. Once all the gear was loaded we had a quick navigation class, determined our destination and the best route through the islands along with a rendezvous site for lunch. We usually split into two groups with a guide in each and one guide paddling sweep.

Bahia de los Angeles consists of 14 islands surrounded by clear water teeming with sea life. It's abundant bird population and rich marine life make it an ideal destination for paddlers. The islands are official Mexican Wildlife Refuges and as such there is no camping allowed on them, except for the largest one on Isla Coronado. We chose to camp at Puerto Don Juan, which is a snug little cove on the Baja Peninsula accessible only by boat. Our route there took us past Isla Flecha and Isla Ventana across to Isla Cabeza de Caballo and then another short crossing to the peninsula that protects Puerto Don Juan. On our way there we saw Elegant Terns, Frigate Birds, Ospreys, a chocolate chip Starfish and numerous marine mammals.

We made camp in a beautiful little cove that lead into a arroyo rich in plant and animal life. A spotted owl nest was discovered in the top of a Cordon cactus, ospreys fishing in the cove and bats flying overhead at dusk rounded out our wildlife observations. Dinner was barbecued fish caught by the anglers in the group along with chicken, mashed potatoes and salad, proving that you can eat extremely well while kayaking.

The next day dawned just as clear and calm as the previous one, we were really getting spoiled with the weather. Whales could be heard spouting out in the Sea of Cortez, and a short hike up to a lookout revealed their whereabouts.

They were at least 3 or 4 miles out into the sea, it was quite astonishing to hear them breathing from this distance. Two options were presented to the group for the day's paddle itinerary. The first was to paddle out to where the whales were spotted earlier, which involved a longer route with lots of open water. The second route home wound its way through the islands called Los Gemolitos and the front side of Isla Cabeza de Caballo to our lunch stop on Isla Ventana.

Once again we split into two groups to accommodate the desires of everyone to choose the route which would allow for great bird-watching opportunities. The Gemolitos were a pair of tiny guano covered islands just packed with birds. From Elegant Terns and American Oystercatchers to schools of Eared Grebes, we found ourselves surrounded with a wealth of bird life.

The entire group met in a little cove on Isla Ventana, allowing us another look at the rock formation on its eastern side that gives it its name (the window). The second group reported seeing whales at a great distance but they did get fairly close to a group of lazing sea lions. We managed to find a bit of shade behind a rock bluff for our lunch, which was a great relief as we'd all had plenty of sunshine these last few days. It was a quick and easy mile crossing back to base camp as the wind was at our backs.

Day 6 was a rest day, with numerous activities available to the group. It would be our last full day at Bahia de los Angeles and our last chance to catch some rays before returning to early spring in the Pacific Northwest. So the time was spent doing whatever we each chose, from beachcombing to tide pooling, fishing from the kayaks, mountain biking to just sunbathing on the beach. That evening during "happy hour" the idea of an early morning paddle was suggested. It would be our last chance to paddle the Sea and the thought of being on the water at dawn was very enticing.

So we all arose at 5 am to down some coffee and jump into our kayaks and we were on the water before sunrise. Conditions were a bit choppy and there was a light breeze out of the north. But being on the Sea of Cortez at dawn, the sea and sky glowing in a vermillion hue, inky black islands dotting the horizon, was a very special feeling. Everyone drifted off alone to say their own goodbyes to the bay and islands that we'd come to know and love so well!

Then back on shore, it was time to cram all our gear into the dry bags, load the boats and bags and bikes onto the van and trailer and hit the road north! Two hours later we were bouncing along that road north, thinking about our homes, loved ones, and work that we'd be returning to -- the "real world" in other words.

The trip home was broken up with a stay at Estero Beach Resort in Ensenada -- aahh! soft beds and fresh water showers! A nice way to ease back into "civilization". Our last night in Ensenada afforded us one last chance to party together as a group. After driving into town in search of a restaurant, we'd all showered and cleaned up and started on the cold Tecates, we finally ended up in an open air Taqueria in downtown Ensenada, where we proceeded to order all the carne asada, pescado, and camarones tacos one could eat. A case of Tecates was stacked on the table along with bowls of various hot sauces, salsas, onions & tomatoes, guacamole & sour cream, cabbage & lettuce, and we proceeded to gorge ourselves! It was really a blast, by this time the group was quite familiar and at ease, and we all just cut loose and had a ball. It was a great way to finish our Baja Expedition!

Tom Garrison lives and works in Vancouver, Washington and has paddled in New Zealand, Baja, and British Columbia.