Destinations: Powell River Paddling

June-July 1995

This is an article from WaveLength Magazine, available in print in North America and globally on the web.

by Helga Sheppard

Looking for a kayaking vacation you will long remember? Then consider paddling the sheltered waters around Powell River this summer. Located at the gateway to Desolation Sound, Powell River offers some of the most accessible paddling on our west coast.

The area is rich in history, from the earliest Native legends, to the tales of Spanish explorers and the first pioneers who came to Powell River in the late 1800s.

Only an hour and a half paddle away is Texada Island, which rose after the last ice age, leaving seashells on the hilltops. Or you may elect to put in at Gibson's Beach and paddle 40 minutes to the spit of Harwood Island just north of Texada. If you keep your eyes open you may be rewarded with the sight of shy river otters scampering along the shoreline, but keep in mind the Harwood Island belongs to the native peoples of our area and access is prohibited.

Another day paddle not to miss is from Lund (a 20-minute drive north of town) to Mace Point on the northeast tip of Savary Island. Savary is different in formation than any other island from Vancouver to Alaska, really just a long clay ridge covered with a sandy layer. Because of the warm soil and sheltered position, the island is home to flora not found elsewhere in the area and hosts the largest arbutus tree in North America.

The white sand beaches which surround Savary are rivaled only by those found on the front of travel brochures, and the warm, shallow waters lend themselves to endless drifting and daydreaming. Or explore the south side of the island, where Mystery Reef extends for over three miles.

Although there are no official campgrounds on Savary, you can camp just above the high tide line-but please practice low-impact camping. If you find yourself waking up on the shores of Savary Island, I suggest you hop back into your boat and follow the sunrise to Lund where the warm scent from Cinnamamma's Bakery will chase the morning chill from your bones and make you wonder why you never came here before.

After coffee and a roll, aim your kayak northwest and paddle 20 minutes into the serene world of the Copeland Islands Marine Park (locally known as the Ragged Islands). This clustering of islands is an oasis envied by visitors and home to fertile marine gardens, a diverse range of wildlife and, of course, the oh-so-curious harbour seal. You may return to Lund where you will be pleased to find hot showers and a laundry, as well as a grocery/liquor store, restaurant/pub, coffee house, seafood merchant, and... of course... Cinnamamma's!

If you do not feel like leaving the bosom of the ocean just yet then you may continue your sojourn through the Raggeds, around Sarah Point, and down Malaspina Inlet to Okeover Inlet, a journey of approximately 8 miles. As you paddle through Okeover (a trip made more pleasant by checking the tides, as the tidal current can reach a rate of 2 knots) be sure to glance into the waters below where you can often see ethereal jellyfish gently swaying with the sea's movements.

At the end of Okeover, there is a government wharf complete with pay telephone and one of our most beautiful provincial campgrounds. Or, if you feel in need of more luxurious accommodation, the proprietors of Cedar Lodge Bed & Breakfast will welcome you with warm hospitality and a soft bed.

A short walk up the hill will also present the doorstep of Okeover Restaurant which is under new management this season and promises to please the palate just as much as the view delights the eye.

Okeover Inlet also provides the perfect location to begin your expedition into Desolation Sound. Paddling in this world renowned marine park is a rich experience which will have to await a future article.

Helga Sheppard runs Powell River Sea Kayaking at 5899 Skeena Street, Powell River, BC V8A 4V5 604-483-2410 fax 483-2388.

If You Go The town of Powell River is accessible by BC Ferries from the Courtenay/Comox area on Vancouver Island, departing from Little River for the hour and a quarter crossing. With a population of 20,000 the town enjoys the distinction of being the largest 'isolated' community in BC, yet has the amenities few people would associate with isolation. Once you arrive in town you will find a friendly community, great restaurants for every budget, and accommodation ranging from resorts to ocean front B&Bs and a choice of 16 campgrounds. For tenters, Willingdon Beach is a full service campground with hot showers located only a five minute walk from downtown Powell River. Be warned that this ferry may run late from time to time as the captain has been known to stop in the middle of Georgia Strait to allow passengers to view orca whales on their annual migration. If you are coming from Vancouver, you take BC Ferries from Horseshoe Bay to Langdale, a 40-minute trip, drive across the Sechelt Peninsula to Earl's Cove where you catch another ferry (50-minutes) across Jervis Inlet to Saltery Bay-a trip worthwhile for the scenery alone. Or you can fly from Vancouver via Pacific Coastal Airlines on one of their regularly scheduled 35-minute flights.