The Best of Baja: Mountain and Beach

September-October 1994

This is an article from WaveLength Magazine, available in print in North America and globally on the web.

by Deb Leach

As a keen paddler and casual cyclist, I was wondering what I'd gotten myself into when I signed up for a mountain biking and ocean kayaking combo in Baja, Mexico. I flew to Loreto on the Sea of Cortez with my bike and camping gear to meet 12 others put together by a company of "adventure outfitters". Loreto, the former capital of all the Californias, is now home to 5000 Mexican fishing families and gringo sports fishermen.

The Baja -sparsely populated and starkly beautiful- is an incredible travel destination. Missions built centuries ago are set amid fishing towns, goat farms, fruit trees and endless cactus. Our bike loop was through a handful of mountain villages west and north of Loreto. We covered 300 kms in 6 days on single lane gravel roads with minimal traffic, camping in the desert under clear skies in early March.

The cycling and kayaking were a nice combination for upper and lower body, as were the contrasts in scenery. Someone who is reasonably fit, could handle both sports with no problem. In the mountains, we saw vermilion flycatchers, hummingbirds and turkey vultures. The odd scorpion, woodpecker, squirrel or rattler made us sit up and take notice. While paddling we were entertained by pelicans careening on a roller coaster course as they passed by. The seagulls, herons and cormorants looked just like those at home.

If I'd only gone paddling, I'd have missed encounters with goat farmers and village life. Often we were the main attraction -the sight of a dozen cyclists sent little kids running indoors, until we gathered at the local store and a crowd of curious villagers gathered round. People were eager to help us with bike repairs and offered us food and access to oases, villas and ranchos.

To support local business, we took taxis to the kayak launch site at Puerto Escondido 16 kms away. The crossing to Isla Danzante took an hour and we paddled another 1/2 hour along to the camp at the south end, and still more cactus-scapes. We saw a few other paddlers, but much more wildlife! Our campsite for three nights was a good choice for porpoise and whale watching, and being entertained by the birds and fish.

We explored the rocky island, stopping in white sand bays to picnic and climb the hills for amazing views. Snorkeling in the turquoise water with schools of tropical fish was a blast. Everyone had their own opinion about the volcanic and sandstone formation that looked like submarines, hiding elephants and other cartoon characters. We ended out days watching pastel skies and circling around cactus campfires and laying back for spectacular stargazing.

Pedaling and paddling is the best way for modern day adventurers to experience the timeless Mexico. On the bike trip we encountered the sights, sounds and smells of the country. In the mountains we traveled through the frontier Baja most people never see. We saw how people live and had access to lush oases, secluded villas and offbeat camping pads. It's also a chance to practice your Spanish and gain an appreciation for another way of life.

The kayaking portion was more low key than any resort. You can really enjoy a getaway when the outfitters know the lay of the land (and sea). The tours offer a chance to make friends with your companions while enjoying the best of the Baja. I flew home with fond memories of awesome landscape, intriguing wildlife and very special people.

Deb Leach lives in Victoria. Her trip was with Peter Marcus' Gabriola Cycle & Kayak, call (250) 247-8277.